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FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA; 


OR, 


®lje  Jfadorn  §oi|  mk  a IJlissionarg. 

THE 

LIFE  AND  OBSERVATIONS 


Kev.  william  AITCHISON", 

LATE  MISSIONARY  TO  CHINA. 


BY 

EEV.  CHAELES  P. 


USH,  A.  M. 


//ITH  SIXTEEN  ILLUSTRATIONS, 


PHILADELPHIA; 

PEESBYTERIAN  BOAPvD  OF  PUBLICATIOH. 
1334  Chestnut  Street, 


Entered  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1865,  by 
WM.  L.  HILDEBURN,  Treasurer, 

in  trust  for  the 

PRESBYTERIAJT  PUBLICATIOX  COMMITTEE, 

In  the  Clerk’s  Office  of  the  District  Court  for  the  Eastern  District 
of  Pennsylvania. 


STEREOTYPED  BY  WESTCOTT  k TBOUSON. 
JAS.  B.  RODGERS,  PE. 


PRINCETON 
RLC.OCT  I8b0 
’HSOLOGIGAL. 


PEEFACE. 


The  following  pages  have  a two-fold 
interest  and  purpose  ; first,  as  the  record 
of  a pure,  devoted  life,  full  of  strange 
providences ; and,  secondly,  as  a book  of 
careful  and  accurate  observations  in  a 
far-off  and  peculiar  land,  of  which  we 
know  so  little.  It  will  be  seen  that  the 
blind  was  led  by  a way  he  knew  not ; 
and  that  the  land  of  Sinim  is  one  of  won- 
derful proportions  and  of  marvelous  in- 
terest. 

We  are  much  indebted  to  Rev.  J.  S. 
Burden,  of  the  English  Church  Mission- 
ary Society,  and  to  Miss  L.  A.  Andrew, 


4 


PREFACE. 


of  New  Haven,  for  assistance  in  getting 
together  the  materials  for  the  work. 

It  is  humbly  hoped  that  the  volume 
may  do  something  to  encourage  young 
men  struggling  against  obstacles  to  enter 
the  ministry,  and  something  to  aid  in  dif- 
fusing a more  general  interest  in  the  all 
important  subject  of  missions. 

C.  P.  B. 

Rochester,  N.  Y.,  November,  1864. 

In  Chinese  names,  ordinarily,  u,  is  to 
be  pronounced  as  oo,  in  shoot;  au,  as  ow, 
in  cow.  Thus,  Suchau  is  pronounced  Soo- 
chow. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

PAOE 

Embarkation  — Early  History — Conversion  — Aspirations — 
Education 9 


CHAPTER  II. 

His  Marriage — Begins  Preaching — In  Kent— Woodstock — 
Fitchville 25 


CHAPTER  III. 

His  first  Sorrow — Loneliness  and  Sadness — Revival — Spir- 
itual Body — Remark  of  Chrysostom 34 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Joys  remaining — Thinking  of  Missionary  Life — His  Child  a 
Hindrance — Death  of  Child — God  making  him  a Mis- 
sionary  45 


CHAPTER  V. 

His  Ordination — Embarks  for  China — Storm  and  peril — First 
Sabhath  Service  at  Sea — Lines,  “To  Kew  Haven” — Efforts 
for  the  Sailors — Lines,  “ To  a Certain  Cottage  in  Kew 

Haven” — Employment  of  Time 

1 * 5 


60 


G 


COXTKNTS. 


CHAPTER  VL 

PAQI 

Studies — Sailor  Converted — Terrible  Storm  and  Narrow  Es- 
cape— Gratitude — Lines,  “ Alone  and  yet  not  Alone” — Ar- 
rives at  Java — Sights  and  Scenes  there — Missions  of  Middle 
Ages 74 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Arrives  at  Hong  Kong — Voyage  up  the  Coast — Typhoon — 
Arrives  at  Shanghai — The  City  and  Suburbs — Then  in  the 
Hands  of  the  Rebels — Begins  Missionary  Work — Studies — 
Obstacles 91 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

The  Number  of  the  People — No  Sabbath — Explorations — 
Chinese  Funeral — Excursion  with  Rev.  Mr.  Edkins  towards 
the  Interior — Stopped  by  Officials  at  Suchau — Sent  back 
under  Escort 106 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Recapture  of  the  City — Horrible  Scenes — Missionaries’  Houses 
riddled — Churches  unharmed — Difficulties  of  the  Language 
— Heathenism — A new  home 121 

CHAPTER  X. 

Excursion  with  Rev.  Mr.  Points — Grand  Canal — Second  Ex- 
cursion with  Rev.  Mr.  Points  — Iluchau — Me-Chi — Tea 
Shops — Temple  at  Tien-Moh-Shan — Budhist  Worship — 
Traveling  by  Raft — His  first  Sermon  in  Chinese 132 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Friendship  with  Rev.  Mr.  Burdon — Striking  Coincidences — 
Live  and  Labor  together — Boat  Life,  Itinerancy — Soong- 
Kiang — Loo-Tien — Worship  of  Confucius — Mohammedans.  155 


CONTENTS. 


7 


CHAPTER  XII. 

PAGS 

Trying  to  Settle  Dovrn — Ping-IIoo — Reasons  for  being  there 
— Cheerless  Abode — Joy  in  God — -Importance  of  the  Step 
— Darkness  of  Heathenism 175 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Still  at  Ping-IIoo — Burdon  Returns  to  Shanghai — Interest- 
ing Cases — China  Opening — To  Ningpo  — Mr.  Burdon’s 
Wedding — Remarkiihle  Cascade 188 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Abandons  Ping-Hon — New  Treaties — All  China  Open — Death 
of  his  Eather-in-law,  and  of  Mrs.  Burdon 198 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Tour  of  Exploration  to  the  North — Mr.  Burdon  his  Compan- 
ion— Disturbed  state  of  the  Country — Again  in  Suehau 205 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Bright  Prospects — Suddenly  Clouded — Death  of  Mr.  Macy — 
Again  Bewildered 214 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Still  Planning — Joins  the  Embassy  to  Peking — Repulse  of 
the  French  and  English  at  the  Peiho — Hopes  Clouded — 
Negotiations  Continued 220 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Conference  with  the  Governor — Arrangements  Completed — 
Journey  to  the  Capital 228 


8 


CONTENTS, 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

PAQI 

In  Peking — Virtual  Prisoners — Speculations — A few  Keep- 
sakes  243 

CHAPTER  XX. 

His  Sickness — Death — Cnaracter 263 


Appendix 


281 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Embarkation — Early  History — Conversion — Aspirations — Educa- 
tion. 

Ho  for  China  ! the  land  of  hoary  superstitions 
and  ancient  idolatry. 

The  good  ship  Candace  is  weighing  anchor. 
The  steam  tug  takes  her  in  tow,  and  away  they 
scud  down  the  narrows,  and  out  upon  the  broad 
ocean.  There  are  two  young  men  on  board,  just 
starting  for  the  long  voyage.  One  of  them, 
through  whose  eyes,  more  particularly,  we  propose 
to  look  at  that  far-off  country  of  the  misnamed 
“ Celestials,”  has  already  led  a chequered  life ; 
so  peculiar  indeed  as  to  suggest  our  motto,  and 
justify  a more  particular  introduction  to  our 
readers,  before  we  proceed  further  with  the  long 
journey  which  he  has  undertaken. 


9 


10 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


Ills  name  is  William  Aitciiison.  lie  was 
born  of  humble  parentage  at  Glasgow,  Scotland, 
on  the  4th  of  January,  1826.  Ills  parents  came 
to  this  country  in  1834,  and  soon  after  settled  in 
Greeneville,  Conn.  Here  the  boy  William  was 
sent  for  a short  time  to  the  public-school,  where 
his  attainments  were  highly  creditable,  although 
not  at  all  of  the  order  of  youthful  prodigies. 
But  even  as  a boy,  his  deportment  was  character- 
ized by  so  much  of  sobriety  and  thoughtfulness, 
by  such  a spirit  of  inquiry  and  thirst  for  know- 
ledge, that  he  always  seemed  older  than  his 
years. 

At  the  age  of  twelve,  however,  he  was  taken 
from  school,  the  place  which  he  greatly  loved,  and 
set  to  work  in  a cotton  mill  for  which  he  had  no 
special  affection  ; but  nevertheless,  in  this  hum- 
ble occupation,  he  spent  about  two  years,  always 
faithful  to  his  employers,  although  he  was  still 
eager  after  knowledge,  scrupulously  devoting 
every  leisure  moment  to  reading  and  study. 
Many  an  instructive  volume  did  he  devour,  even 
whilst  busy  with  his  work,  laying  his  book  upon 
the  machine  to  ivhich  he  was  attending,  and  catch- 
ing a few  sentences  as  he  passed  and  repassed,  with 


! 


1 


Geltiog  an  Educatioa. 


p.  10. 


Fii-<e  Years  in  China. 


CONVERSION. 


11 


plenty  of  leisure  in  the  intervals  to  digest  all 
thoroughly,  or  store  it  away,  in  some  quiet  cham- 
ber of  the  memory,  for  future  use. 

He  had,  in  the  mean  time,  become  a diligent 
and  attentive  scholar  in  the  Sabbath-school,  a 
constant  and  earnest  listener  in  the  sanctuary. 
His  marked  attention,  indeed,  to  the  preaching  on 
the  Sabbath,  had  attracted  the  notice  of  the  pas- 
tor, and  of  others,  while  he  was  yet  a stranger : 
and  they  had  inquired  him  out,  sent  for  him,  and 
finding  how  desirous  he  was  to  improve  himself, 
had  loaned  him  books,  and  spoken  to  him  words 
of  counsel  and  cheer.  When  asked  afterwards, 
why  he  listened  with  such  fixed  attention  to  the 
preaching,  if  it  was  because  he  was  serious,  or 
troubled  about  himself,  he  said,  no,  he  wms  listen- 
ing to  gain  knowdedge. 

But  the  day  of  his  merciful  visitation  was  at 
band.  There  was  no  revival,  no  general  serious- 
ness, and  no  striking  providence,  in  mercy  or  in 
judgment,  to  arouse  his  attention.  God  chose 
him  in  another  wmy.  As  he  was  poring  one  day 
over  an  interesting  volume  in  the  mill,  some  of 
his  young  companions  wished  him  to  come  out 
and  join  them  in  their  sports,  but  he  preferred  to 


12 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


remain  with  his  book.  They  urged  their  entreat- 
ies with  clamor  and  vehemence,  until  at  length  he 
became  thoroughly  irritated,  and  let  fall,  it  is  be- 
lieved, the  first  and  the  last  profane  oath  which 
ever  escaped  his  lips.  He  was  startled  at  his 
own  words ; he  was  alarmed  for  himself ; he  did 
not  before  know  that  his  heai’t  contained  such 
wickedness ; and  this  was  the  beginning  of  his 
conviction  of  sin.  He  then  for  the  first  time  felt 
that  he  needed  a Saviour ; and  he  sought  and 
found  Jesus  Christ,  the  Lamb  of  God,  that  taketh 
away  the  sin  of  the  world. 

“ He  examined,”  said  his  pastor,  “ every  step 
which  he  took,  expressed  nothing  which  he  did 
not  feel  and  believe,  and  when  he  came  to  the 
point  where  he  submitted  his  heart  to  God,  his 
act  was  intelligent,  and  from  that  time  his  course 
was  onward ; he  was  ready  to  perform  any  duty 
which  was  made  known  to  him,  and  he  began  at 
once  to  labor  and  pray  for  the  conversion  of 
others.” 

When  afterward  a student  in  the  Theological 
Seminary,  he  wrote  in  respect  to  this  period  of  his 
life: — “You  cannot  imagine  with  what  interest 
my  thoughts  cling  around  some  spots  in  Greene- 


KKMINISCENCES. 


13 


ville.  Not  the  least  interesting  locality  is  the 
room  in  the  mill  where,  I trust,  the  Holy  Spirit 
first  arrested  my  attention,  and  directed  my 
thoughts  to  the  interests  of  my  soul.  Many  a 
happy  day  did  I spend  in  that  room.  While  my 
hands  were  busy  with  my  work,  my  soul  was 
communing  with  God.  I can  go  also  to  more 
than  one  rock  or  tree  in  the  woods,  at  whose  base, 
in  the  dark  night  and  in  the  broad  day,  in  the 
dreary  winter  and  in  mild  summer,  I often  knelt 
to  pray.”  And  it  is  related  also  that  with  one 
young  friend,  whose  hopes  like  his  own  had  gone 
heavenward,  he  used  to  hold  a daily  prayer-meet- 
ing, long  before  the  Fulton  Street  meeting  was  es- 
tablished. After  taking  their  hurried  mid-day 
meal,  these  two  would  go  away  alone  to  their 
holy  trysting  place  in  a neighboring  grove,  and 
there  spend  a portion  of  their  brief  respite  from 
toil  (only  three  quarters  of  an  hour)  in  prayer  to 
God,  for  mercy,  guidance,  usefulness.  * 

His  conversion  occurred  in  the  spring  of  1840, 
when  he  was  fourteen  years  of  age.  He  contin- 
ued to  work  however  for  a year  or  two  longer  in 
the  cotton-mill,  but  not  very  contentedly  ; his 

thoughts  and  hopes  were  constantly  soaring  above 
2 


14 


FIVE  YEAKS  IN  CHINA. 


and  beyond  that  narrow  sphere  of  labor.  In- 
deed, almost  from  the  hour  of  his  conversion  his 
mind  turned  to  the  holy  ministry,  and  in  a 
special  manner  also,  to  the  work  of  missions. 
And  now,  more  than  ever,  he  desired  an  educa- 
tion ; but  how  to  get  it  did  not  yet  appear. 
First,  however,  having  indulged  hope  in  Christ 
for  nearly  a year,  he  felt  called  upon  to  make  a 
public  profession  of  his  faith.  . 

His  examination  was  highly  satisfactory,  and 
he  was  cordially  welcomed  to  the  fellowship  of 
the  Congregational  Church  in  Greeneville,  on  the 
first  Sabbath  of  March,  1841  ; he  then  being  fif- 
teen years  of  age.  This  step,  manifestly  under- 
taken with  careful  self  examination  and  prayer, 
served  not  only  to  deepen  the  work  of  grace  in 
his  own  soul,  but  also  to  call  out  renewed  expres- 
sions of  interest  in  his  behalf,  and  promises  of 
aid,  if  he  would  undertake  to  prepare  himself  for 
the  work  of  the  ministry.  Thus  encouraged,  he 
gladly  turned  his  back  upon  the  cotton  mill,  and 
again  entered  school. 

His  entire  preparatory  course  Avas  passed  in 
the  public-schools  of  Greeneville  ; they  being  at 
that  time  among  the  very  best  in  the  state,  as 


ENCOURAGEMENTS. 


15 


they  were  the  first  to  adopt  the  graded  system 
and  all  the  modern  improvements ; and  Mr. 
Aitchison  was  not  the  only  man  of  mark  who 
went  out  from  them.  Here  he  pressed  on  rap- 
idly with  his  studies ; while  the  manifest  purity 
of  his  character  and  nobleness  of  his  purpose 
were  adding  constantly  to  the  number  of  his 
friends  and  helpers,  although  he  was  never  taken 
up  and  carried  along  without  his  own  exertions. 
From  aH  sources  he  received  only  enough  of  aid 
to  keep  him  from  giving  up  again  and  again  in 
utter  despair.  From  the  beginning  he  endured 
hardness  as  a good  soldier,  proving  that  it  is  no 
disadvantage  really  to  struggle  with  and  sur- 
mount obstacles. 

While  yet  a boy  Mr.  Aitchison  began  a relig- 
ious Journal,  from  which  we  give  a few  extracts, 
to  show  the  working  of  his  mind  at  that  early 
day. 

“Aug.  9,  1842.  Awoke  this  morning  feeling 
my  heart  drawn  out  in  love  to  God,  and  with  a 
determination  to  serve  him  with  all  my  strength 
through  the  day.  I feel  that  my  studies  are 
a drawback  to  my  growth  in  grace,  and  am  some- 
times almost  ready  to  give  them  up ; but  then  I 


16 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  . CHINA. 


think  of  Payson,  who  estimated  the  progress  he 
made  in  his  studies  by  the  progress  he  made  in 
holiness. 

“Jan.  4,  1843.  This  is  my  birth-day;  one 
among  the  many  landmarks  of  my  journey. 
Many  are  the  interesting  reflections  which  crowd 
into  remembrance.  God  has  ever  dealt  merci- 
fully with  me.  While  in  my  carnal  state,  (if  in- 
deed I am  not  so  now),  he  preserved  me  from 
many  dangers,  and,  as  I humbly  trust,  led  me  by 
his  Holy  Spirit  to  the  Rock  that  is  higher  than 
I.  I desire  to  be  wholly  devoted  to  Jesus,  and 
now  consecrate  to  him  my  time,  my  talents,  my 
life,  my  all. 

“ Jan.  18.  Never  did  I realize  the  responsibil- 
ity of  my  situation  as  a Sabbath-School  Teacher. 
It  is  now  about  a year  since  I began  this  work  ; 
but  in  looking  back  upon  my  course,  I can  see 
that  I have  been  entirely  unfaithful  to  the  souls 
committed  to  me.  I have  never  realized,  to  any 
good  degree,  their  worth,  nor  the  solemn  fact  that 
I must  meet  each  one  of  my  class  in  the  day  of 
Judgment,  and  give  account  of  the  Sabbaths  we 
have  spent  together.  0 that  I may  hereafter  be 
faithful  to  them  ; that  it  may  be  the  great  aim 


FURTHER  THOUGHTS  OF  MISSIONS. 


17 


of  my  labors  and  prayers  to  bring  them  to  accept 
the  salvation  offered  by  the  Saviour. 

“ March  12,  Sabbath.  I have  thought  much 
■within  the  last  few  months,  and  especially  since 
the  meeting  of  the  American  Board  in  this  place, 
of  the  millions  who  are  perishing  without  a 
knowledge  of  the  Redeemer,  and  of  the  duty  of 
Christians  to  do  all  that  lies  in  their  power  for 
the  missionary  cause.  God  is  manifesting  his 
willingness  to  do  a great  work  in  the  earth,  if 
Christians  will  but  awake  and  do  their  duty. 

“ April  17.  How  thankful  I should  be  to 
God  for  all  his  abundant  mercies  to  me.  But  a 
few  days  ago  my  path  was  dark  before  me.  I 
expected  to  be  compelled  to  relinquish  my  studies, 
for  a season  at  least ; but  now  I have  the  prospect 
of  continuing  them  this  summer ; and  then  I 
trust  God  will  open  the  way  still  further. 

“ When  all  thy  mercies,  0 my  God, 

My  rising  soul  surveys. 

Transported  with  the  view,  I’m  lost 
In  wonder,  love  and  praise.” 

And  now,  in  view  of  this,  how  should  I live  ? 
Certainly  not  cold  and  indifferent,  as  I often  am, 
but  full  of  love  to  the  Saviour,  and  zeal  in  his 


18 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


cause.  I think  I feel  to  day  more  than  ever  that 
Christians  should  go  about  doing  good.  Lord 
may  I have  a heart  to  feel  for  the  souls  of  others ; 
and  may  I do  good  day  by  day. 

“ May  25.  Have  been  engaged  reading  the  me- 
moir of  Harriet  Winslow.  Oh,  that  I had  her 
zeal,  her  love  for  immortal  souls,  her  ardent  de- 
sire to  do  good.  I think  if  I knoiv  my  own  heart, 
I do  not  wish  to  live  unless  I can  aid  in  advan- 
cing the  kingdom  of  the  dear  Redeemer,  and  can 
thus  glorify  my  God.  But  I am  looking  forward 
to  doing  good,  and  am  neglecting  the  opportunities 
which  daily  present  themselves.  May  I endea- 
vor every  day  to  benefit  the  souls  of  my  com- 
panions. 

“May  26.  Have  felt  to-day  more  and  more 
that  it  is  the  duty  of  Christians  to  spend  all  their 
talents  and  time  in  endeavoring  to  glorify  the 
Saviour.  Have  enjoyed  some  sweet  seasons  of 
prayer  to-day,  but  am  compelled  to  mourn  my 
want  of  faith. 

“ Read  this  morning  a missionary  paper,  en- 
titled ‘A  call  to  personal  labor  as  a Foreign 
Missionary.’  I think  if  the  way  is  plain  before 
me,  and  if  I am  enabled  to  qualify  myself,  I 


REMINDED  OF  THE  HEATHEN. 


19 


shall  be  willing  to  preach  the  gospel  in  a heathen 
country,  or  anywhere  else. 

“June  4,  Sabbath.  I feel  very  anxious  for 
the  conversion  of  my  Sabbath-School  scholars, 
knowing  that  their  souls  are  in  a measure  com- 
mitted to  my  care,  and  that  a fearful  responsibil- 
ity rests  upon  me. 

“I  am  reminded  of  the  heathen  this  morning, 
upon  vdiom  no  pleasant  Sabbath  dawns,  to  Avhom 
no  crucified  Saviour  will  be  preached.  0 Lord, 
wilt  thou  raise  up  and  qualify  many  who  shall  be 
willing  to  go  forth  and  preach  the  gospel,  even  to 
the  ends  of  the  earth. 

“ July  15.  I have  this  evening  enjoyed  a de- 
lightful season  of  prayer,  and  have  consecrated 
myself  anew  to  the  Saviour.  I feel  that  it  is  a 
precious  privilege  to  give  myself  and  all  that  I 
have  to  Jesus. 

“I  very  much  desire  the  conversion  of  my 
dear  parents  and  sisters,  who  are  now  living  dis- 
tant from  me.  0 Lord,  visit  them  in  mercy,  and 
lead  them  to  thyself. 

“ Aug.  6.  Handed  a letter  on  the  subject  of 
religion  to  G.  B.  W.  to-day,  praying  that  God 
would  bless  it  to  the  salvation  of  his  soul.  0 


20 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


that  I may  realize  the  worth  of  the  soul  more  and 
more  each  day. 

“ Aug.  8.  Went  to-day  with  two  of  my  com- 
panions down  the  river  four  or  five  miles,  distrib- 
uting tracts  among  the  Irish  families  upon  the 
rail-road.  Most  of  them  are  Roman  Catholics, 
yet  in  nearly  every  instance  they  received  the 
tracts  apparently  with  great  pleasure. 

“ Aug.  13.  Sabbath  morning.  Since  I became 
a professor  of  religion,  I have  always  felt  it  to 
be  my  duty  to  preach  the  gospel  of  Christ,  and  to 
preach  it  to  the  dying  heathen.  After  at  least 
six  or  seven  months  of  examining  the  subject  and 
praying  for  divine  guidance,  I resolved  this  morn- 
ing in  the  presence  of  God,  to  devote  my  life  to 
the  work  of  preaching  the  gospel  to  a heathen 
nation,  if  He  in  his  good  providence  shall  open 
the  way.  I have  not  come  to  this  resolution  with- 
out much  consideration.  I have  read  many  books 
upon  the  subject  ; and,  as  I hear  the  cry  of  five 
hundred  millions  of  souls  who  are  perishing  ; as 
I hear  the  earnest  appeals  made  by  them  through 
the  missionary  ; and  as  I reflect  upon  the  small 
number  who  dedicate  themselves  to  this  work,  I 


ENTERS  COLLEGE. 


21 


am  constrained  to  feel  that  I ought  to  offer  myself, 
though  poor  and  unworthy.” 

In  1814  Mr.  Aitchison  entered  the  Freshman 
class  in  Yale  College.  What  his  course  was  as 
a student  there,  will  appear  from  the  following 
testimony  of  Rev.  Mr.  Blodget,  who  was  his  class- 
mate during  seven  years  of  study,  and  afterward 
his  associate  in  Christian  labors.  “ The  first 
time  I remember  to  have  seen  hitn,  was  in  our 
class-meeting  the  first  Sabbath  morning  after  the 
commencement  of  the  term.  The  exercises  had 
been  opened  by  a member  of  the  senior  class,  who 
then  gave  place  and  retired  from  the  room. 
After  he  had  gone,  Mr.  Aitchison,  then  a young 
man  of  eighteen  years,  rose  from  his  seat  and 
with  unaffected  modesty  and  characteristic  sim- 
plicity and  fervor  poured  forth  the  language  of 
his  heart. 

“ Such  was  the  beginning  of  his  course  in  col- 
lege, and  such  he  held  fast  to  the  end.  What 
he  was  in  the  first  meeting,  he  was  also  in  the 
last.  During  his  entire  college  course  he  was 
always  steadfast  on  the  side  of  right  and  good 
order ; and  he  became  a pillar  of  the  truth  in  the 
whole  college  community.  Early  in  his  course 


22 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


lie  was  chosen  a member  of  the  church  committee 
for  that  division  of  the  class  to  which  he  belonged, 
and  in  that  office,  as  well  as  in  all  his  intercourse 
with  his  fellow-students,  he  won  their  respect,  and 
in  an  unusual  degree  their  love.” 

Nor  was  his  influence  confined  to  the  college. 
Early  in  his  Sophomore  year  he  became  a teacher 
in  the  ^fission  Sabbath-School,  for  colored  people, 
in  Broadway,  and  continued  in  the  good  work 
through  the  rest  of  his  course  of  study.  After 
serviiij^  throe  years  as  teacher,  he  was,  upon  grad- 
uation, elected  Superintendent,  and  as  such  served 
three  years  more,  spending  much  of  his  leisure 
time  in  visiting  the  sick  and  destitute  among  this 
poor  people,  by  whom  his  labors  are  still  kindly 
and  gratefully  remembered. 

During  a part  of  his  college  life,  he  was  also 
one  of  the  editors  of  the  Yale  Literary  Maga- 
zine, showing  the  estimate  in  which  he  was  held 
by  his  fellow-students  as  a writer.  His  contribu- 
tions to  the  Magazine,  in  prose  and  in  verse,  were 
numerous  and  highly  esteemed.  At  three  diflFer- 
ent  times  also  he  bore  off  the  prize  for  excellence 
in  composition.  And  all  this  whilst  struggling 
with  great  embarrassments,  compelled  to  teach  a 


MADE  TUTOR. 


part  of  the  time,  acting  also  as  Librarian  to  the 
college,  in  order  to  hold  on  his  way. 

Mr.  Aitchison  graduated  in  1848,  with  credit 
to  himself,  taking  the  second  honor  of  his  class, 
the  salutatory.  Two  years  afterward  he  was  ap- 
pointed a Tutor  in  Mathematics  in  his  noble  alma 
mater,  thus  receiving  the  highest  testimonial  of 
the  officers  of  the  institution,  not  only  to  his 
superior  scholarship,  but  also  to  the  worth  and 
weight  of  his  character. 

IVe  have  dwelt  the  longer  upon  the  earlier  part 
of  Mr.  Aitchison’s  life,  because  it  is  the  key  to 
the  whole,  and  is  full  of  encouragement  to  all 
who  are  struggling  with  like  difficulties,  or  fondly 
cherishing  similar  hopes ; and  there  is  the  more 
to  cheer  and  encourage  in  his  example,  from  the 
very  fact  that  he  was  no  prodigy,  thus  showing 
that  transcendent  gifts  and  brilliant  endowments 
are  not  necessary  to  great  usefulness,  or  to  the 
highest  nobility  of  character.  But  it  should  also 
be  observed  that  he  was  never  a drone,  and  never 
a rebel  against  decent  restraints.  He  did  not 
supinely  trust  to  luck  to  get  him  over  hard 
places  ; neither  did  he  think  it  necessary  to  sow 
his  “wild  oats,”  or  play  any  foolish  college 


24 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


pranks  in  order  to  demonstrate  his  wit,  or  make 
himself  an  agreeable  companion  of  his  fellow- 
students.  He  was  cheerful  and  playful,  but 
never  “ fast”  or  furious ; thus  proving  that  col- 
lege vices  are  not  necessary  to  college  popularity, 
for  he  was  a universal  favorite. 

Mr.  Aitchison  pursued  his  Theological  studies 
in  connection  with  the  Divinity  school,  at  New 
Haven ; attending  at  the  same  time,  during  the 
third  year  in  the  Seminary,  to  his  duties  as  Tutor 
in  the  College  ; and  here  also  he  was  always  the 
diligent  student,  the  humble  Christian,  and  the 
exemplary  man. 


MARRIAGE. 


25 


CHAPTER  II. 

His  Marriage — Begins  Preaching — In  Kent — Woodstock — Fitch- 
Tille. 

In  the  spring  of  1851  (April  22,)  Mr.  Aitchi- 
son  was  married  to  the  object  of  his  early  and 
devoted  attachment,  Miss  Mary  E.  Andrew, 
daughter  of  Rev.  S.  R.  Andrew,  long  the  well- 
known  and  highly  esteemed  Pastor  of  the  1st 
Congregational  Church  in  Woodbury,  Conn.,  but 
then  a resident  of  New  Haven.  Miss  Andrew 
was  a person  of  superior  intellect,  culture,  and 
loveliness.  They  were  kindred  spirits,  and  both 
anticipated  greatly  augmented  usefulness  as  well 
as  happiness  by  their  union.  Often  had  they 
communed  together,  most  tenderly  and  sacredly, 
about  the  Master’s  service  ; and  both  had  thought 
especially  of  the  blessed  missionary  work  ; but 
the  health  of  Miss  Andrew  had  been  so  feeble, 

even  for  years  before  their  marriage,  as  to  forbid 
3 


26 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


their  entertaining  seriously,  at  least  at  that  time, 
the  thought  of  going  to  the  heathen. 

Mr.  Aitchison  was  licensed  to  preach  by  the 
New  Haven  East  Association,  on  the  5th  of  Au- 
gust, 1850  ; but  he  was  not  released  from  College 
duties  or  Theological  studies  until  the  summer  of 
1851.  And  now  the  day  for  which  he  had  been 
fondly,  eagerly  hoping  and  praying  for  more  than 
ten  years  had  at  last  come — he  was  prepared  to 
preach  the  gospel.  lie  had  indeed  been  made  a 
Tutor  only  the  year  before ; and  those  who  re- 
ceive that  appointment,  are  expected  to  discharge 
the  duties  for  at  least  two  years ; but  Mr.  Aitch- 
ison had  expressly  stipulated  that  he  might  lay 
them  down  after  one.  He  would  not  accept  the 
post  save  on  condition  that  he  might  retire  and 
enter  at  once  upon  the  ministry  as  soon  as  he  had 
completed  his  Theological  studies.  He  would  not 
let  anything  keep  him  one  hour  longer  than  was 
absolutely  necessary  from  this  his  chosen  work  ; 
this,  which  he  regarded  as  the  most  honorable  and 
delightful  of  all  human  employments. 

As  soon  therefore  as  he  had  fairly  accomplished 
the  entire  course  of  study,  Avith  a heart  full  of 
joy  and  hope,  he  began  to  look  about  for  a place 


BEGINS  PREACHING. 


27 


where  to  preach  the  unsearchable  riches  of  Christ, 
to  dying  men.  But,  contrary  to  his  own  expec- 
tations and  those  of  his  admiring  friends,  for 
more  than  a year  no  opportunity  for  settlement, 
such  as  he  desired,  or  such  as  all  thought  he  had 
a right  to  expect,  presented  itself.  God  had 
other  work  for  him ; God’s  plans  were  deeper 
than  his.  He  was  indeed  constantly  employed, 
preaching  in  several  different  places ; and  was 
formally  invited  by  two  or  three  of  the  churches, 
to  settle  as  pastor;  but  believing  in  his  inmost 
heart  that  neither  of  these  was  a call  of  God;  or, 
that  the  places  did  not  offer  sufficient  inducements 
as  to  permanence  and  usefulness  in  the  settled 
pastorate,  he  declined  all. 

One  of  the  churches  to  which  he  so  preached, 
and  where  he  was  called  to  settle,  was  that  of 
Kent,  Connecticut.  Here  with  his  beloved  wife, 
he  passed  three  months,  from  Oct.  1851  to  Jan- 
uary 1852,  with  manifest  acceptableness  and  use- 
fulness. To  show  how  he  entered  into  these  fearful 
responsibilities  of  the  ministrial  office,  almost  as 
a veteran  at  the  very  beginning,  we  give  a few 
extracts  from  his  Journal,  kept  at  the  time. 

Oct.  23.  This  evenins:  we  have  had  a room 

O 


28 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


full  of  callers,  and  the  hours  have  glided  pleas- 
antly and  swiftly  away.  Oh  ! that  the  tinie  may 
soon  come  when  the  question  on  the  lips  of  every 
visitor  shall  be,  ‘What  must  I do  to  be  saved?’ 
I feel  more  and  more  the  weakness  of  man,  and 
I trust  more  and  more  the  power  of  God  to  reach 
and  influence  the  hearts  of  sinners. 

“ Oct.  25.  Was  told  that  a young  lady,  Miss 
II.,  desired  to  see  me.  She  has  been  somewhat 
unwell  for  several  days,  and  is  generally  in  feeble 
health.  Dr.  II.  accompanied  me  to  her  house ; 
and  after  attending  to  his  professional  duties, he, 
with  the  rest  of  the  family,  withdrew,  leaving  me 
alone  with  Miss  II.  No  sooner  was  the  door 
closed  than  she  burst  into  tears,  exclaiming,  ‘Mr. 
Aitchison,  I want  to  be  a Christian.’  As  faith- 
fully and  tenderly  as  I was  able,  I set  forth  the 
fullness  and  freeness  of  the  salvation  ofifered  in 
the  gospel ; and  endeavored  particularly  to  lead 
her  to  realize  the  inflnite  love  of  the  Saviour,  and 
his  willingness  to  receive  and  bless  her.  She 
opened  her  mind  to  me  with  considerable  freedom, 
and  seemed  just  entering  the  door  of  life. 

“Oh!  what  an  encouragement  is  an  incident 
of  this  nature  to  one  just  commencing  the  work 


ENCOURAGEMENT. 


29 


of  the  ministry.  My  heart  has  been  rising  in 
prayer  for  her  ever  since,  and  I cannot  hut  hope 
that  she  will  soon  find  in  Jesus  that  peace  for 
which  she  is  seeking.  Blessed  Saviour,  gather 
her  in  Thy  fold,  and  make  ber  one  of  the  lamhs 
of  Thy  fiock. 

“ Nov.  3.  Made  three  calls,  two  of  which 
were  on  sick  persons.  One  of  these  is  a lady 
who  seems  to  be  in  the  last  stages  of  consump- 
tion ; but  the  chamber  of  weakness,  languishing 
and  pain,  is  manifestly  as  the  gate  of  heaven. 
The  world  seems  to  have  lost  all  place  in  her 
thoughts,  and  Christ  is  all  in  all.  She  is  almost 
to  be  envied. 

“Nov.  4.  Walked  this  morning  in  a snow- 
storm, and  called  on  Miss  II.  Found  her  much 
oetter,  both  in  mind  and  body.  She  indulges  the 
hope  that  she  has  passed  from  death  unto  life, 
and  seems  to  be  very  happy.  Her  burden  and 
darkness  were  all  gone.  The  change  was  expe- 
rienced on  Sunday,  Oct.  26th,  the  day  after  I 
saw  her.  Oh,  how  refreshing  is  such  an  incident. 
The  Spirit  has  not  utterly  forsaken  us.  May 
this  be  hut  a drop  before  a plentiful  shower. 

“Nov.  14.  At  the  chui’ch  meeting  this  after- 


30 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


noon  I talked  to  the  church  members  as  plainly 
as  I was  able,  in  regard  to  their  backsliding  and 
their  duties,  and  I trust  it  will  not  be  in  vain. 
Deacon  F.  made  some  excellent  remarks  ; and, 
on  the  whole,  the  meeting  was  one  of  more  than 
ordinary  interest.  At  its  close  a good  lady 
besought  me,  with  tears  in  her  eyes,  not  to  be 
discouraged. 

“ Nov.  16.  Preached  twice  to-day  to  attentive 
and  apparently  solemn  audiences.  Felt  exhausted 
by  the  labors  of  the  day.  This  evening  read 
in  the  memoirs  of  Brainerd.  What  a heavenly 
spirit ! What  a death-bed  experience  ! Oh  that 
all  may  follow  him,  so  far  as  he  followed  Christ. 
I cannot  rest  contented  till  God  grants  us  an  out- 
pouring of  the  Spirit.  Oh  how  useless  will  be  the 
most  pointed  preaching  without  the  influences  of 
that  renewing  agent. 

“ Nov.  19.  Went  to  Macedonia.  Preached  to 
a full,  attentive  and  solemn  audience  in  the  school- 
house.  It  seemed  as  though  the  Spirit  was 
among  the  hearers.  Felt  the  importance  of  fol- 
lowing up  the  public  preaching  with  private  con- 
versation. Oh!  how  much  Christians  might  do  in 
deepening  the  impressions  received  from  the  pulpit. 


YEARNING  FOR  SOULS. 


31 


“ Nov.  23,  Sabbath.  Preached  twice  to-day. 
The  weather  was  favorable,  and  the  audience  of 
moderate  size.  The  afternoon  sermon  was  par- 
ticularly well  received.  But  oh  ! the  fruits  ! the 
fruits  ! God  grant  that  I may  soon  see  the  fruits 
of  my  preaching ! 

“ I long  to  enter  the  sanctuary  again  as  an 
auditor,  that  I may  enjoy  the  preaching  of  the 
word.  It  is  in  some  respects  a glorious  and 
happy  thing  to  be  the  preacher;  but  then  the 
crushing  weight  of  responsibility  deprives  me  of 
ease  and  serene  pleasure. 

“Jan.  1,  1852.  Another  year,  with  all  its  joys 
and  sorrows,  its  cares  and  labors,  its  sins  and 
short-comings,  has  gone  to  join  its  predecessors 
in  the  gulf  of  the  mighty  Past.  God  has  dis- 
played nothing  but  his  goodness  to  me  through 
all  its  days  and  months.  He  has  blessed  me 
with  almost  uninterrupted  health,  prosperity  and 
happiness.  On  the  other  hand  what  indifference 
I have  manifested  toward  him  !'  How  cold  have 
been  my  affections,  how  earthly  my  aims,  how 
meager  my  attainments  in  holiness  ! Let  this 
new  year,  if  I am  spared  to  see  its  close,  witness 
greater  faithfulness  in  the  cause  of  Christ  ; more 


32 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


earnest  labors  for  the  salvation  of  souls,  more 
rapid  advances  in  the  divine  life.  0 Lord,  to 
thee  I cheerfully  commit  myself,  my  dearest  wife, 
and  all  our  interests.  Do  thou  guide  us  in  the 
path  of  life,  bless  us  with  thy  presence,  sanctify 
us  by  thy  Spirit,  and  prepare  us  equally  for  life 
or  for  death.” 

At  this  point  Mr.  Aitchison’s  Journal  is  ab- 
ruptly broken  off,  and  is  not  resumed  for  more 
than  a year.  Soon  after  the  above  record  was 
made  he  left  Kent ; preached  for  a few  Sabbaths 
in  Woodstock,  and  other  places  ; passed  a part 
of  the  summer  with  his  wife,  at  New  Haven, 
where  a daughter  was  given  to  them ; but  finally 
engaged,  the  fall  of  1852,  to  preach  for  a year  at 
Fitchville,  a small  manufacturing  village  seven 
miles  from  Norwich. 

There  was  no  church  organization  in  this  place; 
but  Mr.  Asa  Fitch,  the  wealthy  proprietor  of  a 
large  cotton  mill,  having  the  sagacity  and  noble- 
ness to  appreciate  the  importance  of  religious 
influences  in  a community,  had  erected  a very 
neat  Grothic  Chapel ; made  provision  for  the 
minister,  and  invited  the  people,  of  all  denomi- 
nations, and  no  denomination,  to  come  in,  and 


AT  FITCHVILLE. 


33 


freely  occupy  the  house,  and  hear  the  preach- 
ing of  the  gospel. 

Mr.  Aitchison  seemed  to  be  just  the  man  for 
this  place.  His  catholic  spirit,  his  great  simpli- 
city, and  his  true  benevolence  enabled  him  to  win 
all  hearts.  God  came  also  with  his  special  bless- 
ing, and  gave  an  entire  year  of  deep  religious 
solemnity,  with  a goodly  number  of  hopeful  con- 
versions, as  the  reward  of  the  diligent  and  judi- 
cious labors  of  his  servant.  And  in  all  this,  it  was 
known  that  the  heart  of  the  minister  greatly  re- 
joiced. For  a time  also  he  had  other  comforts. 
Mr.  Fitch,  notonly  paidtheminister’ssalary,  which 
was  liberal  compared  with  those  of  neighboring 
parishes,  but  provided  also  a beautiful  house  as  a 
parsonage.  This  was  embowered  in  trees,  sur- 
rounded with  fruits  and  flowers,  shrubs  and 
plants,  of  almost  every  variety,  both  native  and 
exotic ; and  there  were  shaded  walks,  and  cooling 
fountains,  skirted  by  a crystal  stream  and  meadow 
lawn,  with  singing  birds  in  leafy  bowers,  and  ripe 
clusters  of  Eshcol  from  pendant  vines — every- 
thing indeed  to  make  the  place  as  much  like  a 
little  Paradise  as  it  well  could  be. 


34 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


CHAPTER  III. 

His  First  Sorrow — Loneliness  and  Sadness — Revival — Spiritual 
Body — Remark  of  Chrysostom. 

]\Ir.  Aitciiison,  with  his  loving  wife  and  an 
infant  daughter,  moved  into  this  beautiful  home 
in  the  fall  of  1852.  Both  husband  and  wife  were 
peculiarly  fitted  to  enjoy  all  the  sweets  around 
them  ; both  deeply  interested  in  the  Avorks  of  na- 
ture and  of  art ; both  peculiarly  fond  of  trees, 
birds,  streams  and  flowers  ; and  formed  also  as 
Mr.  Aitchison  tvas  in  an  eminent  degree,  for  do- 
mestic and  social  enjoyment,  and  at  the  same 
time  with  heart  to  Avork  just  as  faithfully  as  pos- 
sible for  Christ,  and  Christ  plainly  blessing  his 
work,  his  cup  seemed  entirely  full.  But,  as  if  a 
voice  from  heaven  had  fallen  in  a clear  sky,  loud, 
distinct,  stunning,  it  came,  “ Arise  and  depart, 
for  this  is  not  your  rest." 

That  lovely  Avife  had  entered  into  their  ncAV 
abode  an  invalid.  She  saw  hut  little,  even  from 


HIS  PARADISE  LOST. 


S5 


the  first,  of  the  out-door  beauties  of  their  delight- 
ful home.  She  went  but  once  into  company,  and 
that  only  to  join  a few  friends  at  dinner,  with 
their  patron,  across  the  way.  Her  feebleness 
soon  gave  unmistakable  signs  of  pulmonary  dis- 
ease ; and  her  decline  was  so  rapid  that  in  less 
than  four  months  she  had  completely  withered, 
like  the  autumn  leaves  around  her,  and  her  mor- 
tal remains  were  carried  back  to  New  Haven  for 
burial.  Then  fruits  and  flowers  had  lost  all  their 
sweetness  to  the  afflicted  survivor ; and  that 
beautiful  embowered  home,  into  which  he  had  en- 
tered but  as  yesterday,  with  so  much  of  hope  and 
joy,  was  more  like  a prison  than  a paradise. 
Husband  never  mourned  for  wife  more  sincerely, 
more  deeply,  than  be.  Let  us  listen  to  some  of 
the  wailings  of  bis  poor,  broken  heart.  We  can 
hardly  imagine  anything  more  sad  and  touching 
than  a large  portion  of  his  journal  about  this 
time.  His  burden  seems  greater  than  he  can 
bear  ; and  yet,  like  Job,  he  keeps  his  integrity. 

“Feb.  25,  1853.  My  darling  ]\Iary  has  now 
been  in  heaven  a little  more  than  six  weeks, — to 
me  weeks  of  loneliness  and  desolation.  Every 
day  deepens  my  sense  of  bereavement,  and  adds 


FIVE  FEARS  IX  CHINA. 


^ L* 

ob 

to  the  poignancy  of  my  grief.  And  yet  I am  not 
■without  rich  consolation  in  the  assurance  that 
God  doeth  all  things  Avell,  and  that  my  loss  is  her 
gain.*  These  tivo  considerations  are  inexpressi- 
bly comforting,  especially  AA'hen  connected  AAith 
the  hope  of  re-union  in  a short  time.  Oh  ! that 
my  affections  may  be  effectually  weaned  from 
earth,  and  made  to  centre  in  God.  Oh ! that 
this  grievous  affliction  may  result  in  my  own 
sanctification,  and  in  blessings  to  this  people 
among  Avhom  I labor.  There  are  even  now  some 
indications  of  good.  The  prayer-meeting  last 
evening  Avas  fully  attended,  and  three  persons 
remained  for  personal  conversation  on  religion. 
Lord  increase  the  number  of  sincere  inquirers. 

“Feb.  27,  Sabbath.  This  day  has  been  full  of 
interest  to  me,  and  Avill  be  remembered  in  eter- 
nity. My  precious,  motherless  child  was  bap- 
tized into  the  name  of  the  Father,  and  of  the  Son, 
and  of  the  Holy  Ghost.  Her  grandfather  admin- 
istered the  ordinance.  Oh!  Avhat  sadness  filled 
my  heart,  Avhat  sorroAV  almost  overpoAvered  me, 
as  I stood  alone  before  the  altar.  There  my 
Mary  expected  to  stand  Avith  me  and  join  in  the 


* See  Ohitnary  in  Appendix. 


BAPTISM  OF  CHILD. 


37 


solemn  service  of  consecration  just  three  months 
ago.  But  our  God  and  Father  (his  will  be  done,) 
had  other  plans  and  purposes  in  regard  to  us. 
She  stood  before  the  throne  in  glory  during  the 
performance  of  the  rite,  while  I stood  before  the 
altar  in  the  earthly  temple.  Was  that  sainted 
one  a witness,  and  an  interested  witness  of  the 
ceremony?  Will  she  still  watch  over  the  sweet 
daughter,  who  will  have  no  remembrance  of  a 
mother  ? Does  she  even  now  sympathize  with 
me  in  my  feelings  and  responsibilities  ? Alas ! the 
Bible  returns  no  definite  answer,  and  reason  dare 
not  affirm  with  confidence.  Let  me,  however, 
derive  consolation  from  i\\e  possibility,  not  to  say 
probability,  that  she  is  our  ministering  angel. 

“ And  now,  0 Lord  God,  accept  this  child 
which  I commit  to  thee.  Spare  her  life,  if  it  may 
consist  with  thy  righteous  will.  Renew  and 
sanctify  her  heart,  so  that  her  earliest  moral  ex- 
ercises may  be  pleasing  to  thee.  Make  her  use- 
ful in  the  church  and  the  world  by  employing  her 
as  thine  own  instrument  in  the  salvation  of  many 
souls  ; and  prepare  her  for  thy  presence  above, 
so  that  our  little  family  may  be  a whole  family 
in  heaven. 

i 


38 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


“ March  2.  The  sun  is  shining  brightly  this 
morning,  and  now  and  then  the  note  of  the  blue- 
bird is  borne  to  iny  ear.  All  nature  looks  cheer- 
ful ; and  yet  here  I sit  in  sadness  and  in  tears, 
because  I see  the  sunshine,  and  hear  the  bird- 
music  alone.  She  avIio  welcomed  the  last  spring 
with  me,  whose  smile  was  gladness,  and  whose 
voice  was  melody,  has  left  my  side.  For  her, 
however,  I cannot  weep  ; for,  this  morning,  she 
looks  on  fairer  sights,  and  listens  to  sweeter  notes 
than  earth  can  furnish.  God  her  Saviour  is 
making  her  infinitely  happier  than  I could.  lie 
is  wiping  all  tears  from  her  eyes,  and  leading  her 
into  green  pastures  and  beside  still  waters. 

“But  for  myself  I mourn;  for  all  my  earthly 
hopes  blasted  ; for  all  my  plans  frustrated  ; for 
all  my  joys  annihilated.  Well,  let  me  look  above 
and  beyond  the  perishing  objects  of  time  and 
sense  to  the  things  that  are  unseen  and  eternal. 
Let  my  affections  centre  on  Jesus  Christ,  the 
same  yesterday,  and  to-day,  and  forever.  Let 
me  still  rejoice  in  the  Lord,  and  joy  in  the  God 
of  my  salvation. 

“Not  the  least  of  my  consolations  is  the  fact 
that  God  seems  to  be  blessing  my  labors  among 


LOOKING  INTO  HEAVEN. 


39 


this  people.  The  attendance  on  the  means  of 
grace  is  increasing,  and  a solemnity  seems  to 
rest  on  the  minds  of  the  people.  Christians  are 
shaking  off  their  slumbers,  and  sinners  are  be- 
ginning to  inquire  ■with  apparent  earnestness, 
what  must  we  do  to  be  saved  ? Last  Thursday 
three  ladies  remained  after  the  meeting  was  closed 
for  personal  conversation.  And  on  Monday  night, 
stormy  as  it  was,  seven  came  to  my  study  for  the 
same  purpose.  It  will  be  a blessed  result  of  my 
affliction  if  it  should  be  the  means  of  bringing 
sinners  to  God,  and  honor  to  Jesus. 

“ March  3.  I find  myself  inquiring  with  an  in- 
terest unknown  before  my  beloved  wife’s  death, 
into  everything  pertaining  to  the  state  of  the  pious 
soul  in  the  unseen  world.  While  led  to  see  the 
scantiness  of  all  definite  information  in  regard  to 
minor  particulars  of  future  existence,  I am  at- 
taining a more  distinct  and  satisfactory  conviction 
of  the  truth  of  the  great  realities  which  are  the 
subjects  of  divine  revelation.  I am  inclining 
more  and  more  to  what  may  be  called  material- 
istic views  of  heavenly  blessedness.  Body,  not 
flesh,  or  as  Isaac  Taylor  styles  it  ‘corporeity,’  I 
am  disposed  to  regard  as  the  inseparable  compan- 


40 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


ion  of  the  human  spirit.  I prefer  to  regard 
death,  not  as  working  a mighty  change  in  all  the 
conditions  and  modes  of  being,  but  as  simply  in- 
troducing the  soul  to  another  state,  analogous  to 
the  present,  and  yet  superior. 

“ These  views,  and  the  many  conclusions  to 
which  they  conduct,  I am  by  no  means  prepared 
to  pronounce  certain,  but  they  are  assuredly  the 
source  of  much  pleasure  in  my  meditations.  Let 
me  however  be  more  anxious  to  cultivate  a per- 
sonal fitness  for  the  saints’  rest,  than  to  specu- 
late concerning  its  nature. 

“March  10.  A beautiful  morning  of  cloudless 
skies  and  gentle  winds  succeeds  yesterday’s  storm 
and  gloom.  Not  so  however  in  the  world  within. 
My  feelings  are  not  in  harmony  with  the  cheer- 
fulness of  nature  ; I trust  they  are  in  some  mea- 
sure with  its  peace.  The  very  sunshine  is  oppress- 
ive to  me,  and  the  spring-like  aspect  almost  un- 
endurable. Last  evening  I felt,  almost  for  the 
first  time,  inclined  to  cherish  rebellious  thoughts. 
Grace,  I trust,  enabled  me  to  banish  them  ; but 
I fear  their  return  as  the  spring  days  come  on. 
Can  I,  oh  can  I pass  this  long  summer  in  separa- 
tion from  my  Mary  ? Perhaps  God  in  his  good- 


STILL  SAD  AND  LONELY. 


41 


ness  will  not  require  it  of  me.  Let  me  at  least 
be  constantly  prepared  for  the  summons  which 
may  come  at  any  moment. 

“ March  12,  Saturday,  10  P.  M.  A day  of 
gloom  without,  and  gloom  within,  is  closing.  A 
sadness  which  I cannot  resist,  and  can  hardly 
endure,  has  accompanied  me,  and  still  refuses 
alleviation.  I have  prayed  for  death,  and  it 
seems  as  though  I could  welcome  it.  But  I must 
patiently  abide  God’s  time.  Doubts  and  fears 
have  troubled  me  exceedingly,  coming  between 
my  sorrowing  soul  and  God.  I am  hardly  able 
to  make  the  great  doctrines  of  the  gospel  seem 
like  realities.  Oh  for  more  faith ! more  light  ! 
Lord  forsake  me  not  utterly.  Leave  me  not  to 
dishonor  or  deny  thee  ! In  thee  do  I put  my 
trust.  To  whom  shall  I go  but  unto  thee,  for 
thou  alone  hast  the  words  of  eternal  life.  Thou 
art  the  God  of  my  salvation. 

“March  13,  Sabbath.  Bless  the  Lord,  0 my 
soul,  and  all  that  is  within  me,  bless  his  holy 
name.  I feel  this  morning  more  cheerful  than  I 
have  for  a long  time.  Not  that  I mourn  my  dar- 
ling Mary’s  absence  any  the  less,  but  because  I 
am  able  to  raise  my  thoughts  above  the  gloomy 

4 


42 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


grave  to  the  bright  abodes  of  the  saints  ; because 
God  seems  near  and  my  Redeemer  precious. 

“ Oh,  how  little  need  the  Christian  care  what 
his  earthly  condition  and  circumstances  are ; 
Christ  is  his,  heaven  is  his,  and  he  ought  to  be 
satisfied.  My  precious  wife  may  now  be  pitying 
me,  and  longing  to  welcome  me  to  a participation 
in  her  superior  joys. 

“March  16.  The  Lord  is  comforting  me  with 
the  sight  of  souls  returning  to  himself ; and  per- 
mitting me  to  be  an  humble  instrument  in  the 
dispensation  of  his  mercy. 

“ April  22.  The  anniversary  of  my  wedding. 
I fear  that  I am  not  sufficiently  anxious  to  learn 
the  design  of  God  in  bereaving  me.  If  I am 
his  child,  it  cannot  be  that  he  takes  pleasure  in 
my  grief.  What  then  does  my  Father  intend? 
Of  one  thing  I am  sure ; he  would  have  me  more 
entirely  consecrated  to  the  ivork  to  which  I am 
called ; more  sensible  of  the  comparative  worth- 
lessness of  all  created  good.  Oh  that  grace  might 
enable  me  to  rise  above  my  sorrow,  and  use  dou- 
ble diligence  in  the  discharge  of  all  my  duties. 

“ May  23.  My  loneliness  becomes  constantly 
less  endurable,  and  my  heart,  I fear,  less  submis- 


EEMARK  OF  CHRYSOSTOM. 


43 


sive.  There  is  an  unceasing  struggle  within..  I 
Tcnoio  God  is  good  and  merciful,  but  it  seems  dif- 
ficult to  feel  it.  I know  the  dreadful  blow  was 
given  in  love,  but  it  is  difficult  to  enjoy  the  con- 
solation such  knowledge  is  fitted  to  impart. 

“A  remark  of  Chrysostom  which  I met  in  read- 
ing Leighton’s  works,  together  with  the  Commen- 
tary  of  the  pious  Archbishop,  struck  me  forcibly; 
‘ Minatur  ne  csedat,  caedit  ne  occidat’ — ‘If 
speaking  either  mildly  or  sharply  will  prevail 
with  his  children,  he  will  not  stir  the  rod  to  them; 
and  when  the  rod  is  in  his  hand,  if  showing  or 
shaking  it  will  serve  the  turn,  he  will  not  strike 
with  it.  But  this  is  our  folly ; that  usually  we 
abuse  all  this  goodness,  and  will  not  part  with 
our  sins  till  we  smart  for  them,  and  be  beaten  from 
them.’ 

“ Such  seems  to  have  been  God’s  goodness  in 
his  treatment  of  me,  and  such  my  folly  in  my 
treatment  of  him.  Had  I returned  from  my 
wanderings  when  first  my  beloved  wife  became 
ill,  she  might  possibly  have  been  spared  to  me. 
My  own  obstinate  sinfulness,  it  may  be,  rendered 
the  infliction  necessary.  0,  my  God,  help  me  to 
come  to  thee  now,  lest  further  chastisement  bo 


44 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


needful.  Help  me  with  renewed  diligence  to  en- 
ter upon  the  performance  of  every  duty,  that  I 
may  enjoy  thy  smile. 

“ ]\Iay  25.  Have  enjoyed  more  of  the  presence 
of  God,  and  consequently,  more  peace  to-day 
than  for  some  time  past.  The  Lord  seems  to  be 
saying  to  the  waves  of  doubt  on  which  I have 
been  tossing,  ‘Peace,  be  still!’  Though  feeling 
even  more  lonely  than  ever,  so  far  as  earth  is 
concei’ned,  my  Friend  above  is  unusually  pre- 
cious and  gracious.  Heaven  appears,  oh,  how 
sweet  and  desirable.  I long  to  enter  it,  but  pray 
for  patience  to  wait  the  Master’s  time. 

“July  24.  There  are  still  many  indications  of 
God’s  presence  among  this  people.  The  weekly- 
meetings  are  thronged  with  prayerful,  zealous, 
active  disciples,  apparently  willing  to  tak*  up  the 
cross  and  follow  Christ.” 


JOYS  REMAINING. 


45 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Joys  Remaining — Thinking  of  Missionary  Life — Ilis  Child  a 
Ilinderance — Death  of  Child — God  Making  him  a Missionary. 

So  ran  the  private  record  of  his  inner  life. 
That  it  is  entirely  truthful  we  do  not  doubt  ; and 
yet  we  fear  it  would  convey  a wrong  impression 
to'  many  minds  if  taken  by  itself  alone.  It  was 
the  happy  privilege  of  the  writer  to  know  him 
more  intimately  at  this  than  at  any  other  time  ; 
to  welcome  him  often  at  the  parsonage  ; to  talk 
with  him,  in  all  the  intimacy  of  a warm  personal 
friendship,  morning,  noon  and  night  ; to  go  with 
him  on  variou's  little  excursions,  with  many  a de- 
lightful drive  over  the  beautiful  hills  of  New  Lon- 
don  county  ; and  in  all  these  circumstances  his 
mind  yielded  pleasantly  and  healthfully  to  the 
recreation.  It  was  easy  to  see,  indeed,  that  he 
was  a stricken  man  and  a sincere  mourner.  He 
loved  to  talk  of  his  sorrow  ; and  unbidden  tears 
would  freely  flow,  as  he  spoke  of  his  beloved 


46 


FIVE  YEARS  IX  CHINA. 


Mary  and  his  desolate  home.  But  as  we  turned 
to  Scripture  themes,  or  to  man  and  liis  institu- 
tions, his  mind  would  kindle  with  its  wonted  en- 
thusiasm, and  there  seemed  nothing  gloomy  or 
morbid  in  his  views.  Indeed,  he  was  often  joy- 
ous and  playful,  laughing  and  romping  with  the 
children,  as  though  he  had  always  lived  in  sun- 
shine. “ Happy  days,”  he  afterward  wrote  from 
the  far-off  land  of  Sinim,  “ were  those  spent  in 
your  society,  even  though  they  were  days  of  af- 
fliction.” And  again,  “ I often  think  of  the 
golden  hours  we  spent  together.  I recall  with 
mournful  pleasure  the  various  scenes  in  which  we 
were  associated.  Oh  for  another  ride  after  old 
Billy  ! Oh  for  another  talk  in  the  snug  parlor  ! 
Oh  for  another  prayer  and  hymn  together ! Alas, 
it  may  not  be  !” 

With  real  zest  also  he  attended  the  monthly 
“ ministers’  meeting”  of  New  London  County, 
and  with  delightful  interest  and  appreciation  he 
entered  into  all  the  discussions,  speaking  on 
almost  every  question,  and  always  speaking  to  the 
purpose.  One  occasion  was  especially  memora- 
ble. The  meeting  was  in  New  London  ; the  sub- 
ject for  discussion  being  the  a priori  argument 


THE  A PRIORI  ARGUMENT. 


47 


of  Rev.  Dr.  Samuel  Clarke  for  the  existence  of 
a God.  Mr.  Aitchison  was  chairman  of  the  meet- 
ing, and  it  devolved  upon  him,  after  all  the  rest 
had  spoken,  to  make  the  closing  remarks.  He 
rose  and  began  with  the  simplest  axiom,  “From 
nothing,  nothing  is.  But  here  is  something,  the 
world  of  matter  and  of  mind.  It  must  have  had 
a cause — or  be  causeless,  and  therefore  eternal. 
It  is  not  eternal,  for  it  is  mutable.  It  must 
therefore  have  had  a cause ; and  a cause  ade- 
quate to  such  stupendous  results  must  be  God.” 
Thus  discarding  the  abstruse  and  subtle  theory 
of  Dr.  Clarke,  as  too  etherial  to  rest  upon,  and 
taking  the  simplest  proofs  of  divine  existence  as 
manifest  in  the  works  of  creation,  he  gave,  in  a 
speech  of  about  ten  minutes,  as  all  conceded,  one 
of  the  most  compact,  terse,  logical  arguments 
upon  that  subject  to  which  it  had  been  the  good 
fortune  of  any  of  us  to  listen.  The  sentences 
were  truly  Baconian  as  they  fell  from  his  lips  ; 
the  argument  symmetrical  and  complete.  Not  an 
unnecessary  word  was  used;  not  a word  could 
well  have  been  spared  ; and  all  was  uttered  with 
just  the  same  modest  simplicity  with  which  he 
would  have  spoken  to  a small  Sabbath-school 


48 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


class,  or  to  a friend  in  a private  conversation. 
All  present  were  charmed  with  the  speech ; and 
on  many  subsequent  occ.asions  it  was  referred  to 
as  something  more  than  ordinary.  Indeed,  one 
of  the  foremost  men  of  that  meetinji  writing 
about  it  nine  years  afterward,  while  unable  to  re- 
call the  particulars,  says,  “ The  general  impres- 
sion on  my  mind,  of  remarkable  discrimination 
and  nice  analysis,  evincing  rare  mental  discipline, 
I can  never  lose.  Indeed,  it  is  one  of  those  pas- 
sages in  the  history  of  a meeting,  which  has 
never  wanted  for  passages,  which  stands  out  in 
bold  relief.” 

Another  interesting  occasion  is  well  remem- 
bered; a ride  to  Westerly,  about  twenty  miles; 
the  digging  of  rhododendrons,  from  a spot  near 
Lantern  Hill,  on  our  return  ; the  carrying  home, 
in  our  small  wagon,  of  four  large  thrifty  shrubs, 
which  his  hands  helped  to  set  in  front  of  the  pai’- 
sonage,  where  they  still  stand,  in  health  and 
vigor,  annually  putting  forth  their  wealth  of 
bloom,  a monument  of  one,  at  least,  of  his  happy 
days.  How  he  broke  an  old  man’s  spade  in  the 
operation  ; and  how  we  laughed  at  his  attempt  to 
extort  from  us  eight  times  what  it  was  worth  to 


CURIOUS  savings’  bank. 


49 


get  it  mended  ; and  how  we  finally  settled  on 
more  reasonable  terms  and  parted  amicably,  need 
not  be  more  particularly  mentioned. 

Another  very  little  incident  is  vividly  recalled. 
Sauntering  one  afternoon  over  the  bill,  on  a back 
road,  and  in  a lonely  spot,  “Stop  a minute,”  he 
said,  “ and  I will  show  you  something.”  Turn- 
ing a few  steps  to  the  stone  wall  by  the  way-side, 
reconnoitering  a moment,  he  seemed  to  find  the 
object  of  his  search,  and  lifting  a small  stone 
which  covered  a hollow  in  a larger  one,  he  came 
upon/owr  cents,  thoroughly  blackened,  as  by  long 

exposure.  “ There,  said  he,  J and  A 

and  W , (naming  three  of  his  particular 

friends,  and  former  school-mates,)  were  walking 
this  M'ay  with  me  eight  years  ago  and  we  each 
deposited  a cent  in  this  hollow  in  the  stone,  to 
see  how  long  they  might  remain  here.”  And  so 
saying,  he  covered  them  over  again,  and  we  went 
on  our  way.  Curious  conceit ; curious  Savings’ 
Bank.  The  only  purpose  it  seemed  to  serve  was 
pleasantly  to  recall  his  friends,  and  to  suggest 
many  interesting  things  connected  with  them, 
upon  which  he  enjoyed  speaking  as  we  went  on 
our  way. 

5 


50 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


And  so  even  in  these  days  of  deepest  darkness, 
some  glimpses  of  sunshine  came  through  the 
opening  rifts.  And  yet  that  his  sensitive  nature 
suffered  very  keenly,  and  that  when  he  sat  down 
alone,  or  paced  his  desolate  room,  he  was  often 
overwhelmed,  we  do  not  doubt.  That  he  did  not  ac- 
tually question  God’s  right  to  do  as  he  would 
with  his  own  ; that  he  tried  constantly  to  say 
“ Thy  will  be  done,”  is  very  plain.  Neverthe- 
less, the  ways  of  Providence  were,  in  his  case, 
peculiar.  In  less  than  two  years  from  their 
happy  marriage,  that  fondly  cherished  wife,  for 
w'hose  sake,  as  he  most  conscientiously  believed, 
he  could  not  go  far  hence  to  the  Gentiles,  was 
torn  fi’om  his  loving  embrace  and  laid  cold  in  the 
silent  tomb.  With  her  dying  breath  she  gently 
whispered,  “Now  William  you  can  be  a Mission- 
ary.” But  it  Avas  not  she  alone  who  said  that  ; 
but  a voice  divine  Avas  heard,  in  every  passing 
breeze,  in  every  rustling  leaf,  and  in  the  heavy 
thoughts  of  many  a Aveary,  Avakeful  midnight 
hour,  saying  the  same  thing.  “ My  early  mis- 
sionary feelings  and  purposes” — he  said — “ all 
revived.” 

Thus  impressively  called  to  consider  aneAV  his 


MISSIONARY  FEELING  REVIVED. 


61 


duty  to  the  heathen,  there  still  remained  time  for 
due  reflection,  and  for  consultation  with  friends, 
before  absolutely  deciding  on  such  an  important 
step,  inasmuch  as  his  engagement  at  Fitcliville 
had  six  months  yet  to  run.  One  very  serious 
obstacle,  moreover,  lay  across  his  path.  That 
little  daughter,  his  second  Mary,  now  doubly  dear 
to  him  because  the  first,  whose  sacred  name  she 
bore,  Avas  laid  in  the  grave  ; for  whose  sake  he 
often  ran  on  to  New  Haven  to  pass  a few  days 
with  the  grandparents  where  she  was  staying, 
and  to  Avhom  his  attentions  and  caresses  Avere 
devoted  day  by  day,  AAdiile  he  thought  of  the 
sainted  mother ; it  seemed  necessary  that  he 
should  remain  at  home  to  take  care  of  his  child. 
“ IIoAv,”  he  asks,  “could  I bring  virtual  orphan- 
age upon  her  ? The  struggle  in  my  mind  was 
severe  and  protracted.”  But  we  shall  see  how 
the  Master  enabled  him  to  settle  the  question, 
and  hoAv  the  Avay  for  his  feet  Avas  still  more  clearly 
marked  out  by  the  finger  of  Providence. 

But  first  another  quickening  influence  was 
brought  to  bear  upon  his  mind.  A devoted  mis- 
sionary from  Africa  passed  a Sabbath  by  invita- 
tion at  his  house,  and  presented  the  wants  of  the 


52 


FIVE  VEAUS  IN  CHINA. 


heathen  world  to  his  people.  To  him  he  freely 
opened  his  heart,  and  from  him  he  received  words 
of  counsel  and  encouragement.  This  led  him  to 
address  a free  and  earnest  letter  to  his  father-in- 
law  upon  the  same  subject,  from  which  we  quote 
a few  paragraphs. 

“ In  view  then  of  these  particulars,  and  of  the 
general  claims  of  the  heathen  world  ; in  view  of 
Christ's  last  command  and  the  fearful  apathy  of 
the  church  in  respect  to  it ; in  view  of  my  past 
exercises  on  this  subject,  and  God’s  recent  deal- 
ings M'ith  me,  I am  constrained  to  inquire  seri- 
ously and  prayerfully  what  my  duty  is.  Do,  my 
honored  father,  assist  me  in  these  circumstances 
with  your  counsels  and  your  prayers. 

“ But  you  will  inquire.  Have  you  thought  of 
the  obstacles  which  must  be  surmounted,  the 
crosses  which  must  be  borne  ? Yes  ; and  these 
alone  cause  me  to  hesitate.  How  can  I leave 
my  darling  child,  tenfold  dearer  since  her  mother’s 
death;  and  also  my  aged  parents  ? Nature  can- 
not endure  even  the  thought  of  it ; but  the  love 
of  Christ  may  enable  me  cheerfully  to  bear  the 
terrible  reality.  Did  the  path  of  duty  seem  clear, 
as  it  relates  to  these  dear  ones,  to  whom  I owe 


DISCUSSES  THE  QUESTION. 


63 


so  much,  I now  see  nothing  to  hinder  my  going 
abroad.  And  yet  I dare  not  say  to  God,  although 
he  knows  all  my  thoughts,  that  I will  not  go  even 
now,  lest  he  take  these  dear  friends  out  of  the 
way  by  death. 

“You  see,  dear  father,  my  circumstances. 
Tell  me,  without  reserve,  your  opinion.  You 
may  think  it  strange  that  I should  for  an  instant 
harbor  the  thought  of  leaving  my  little  one.  Some- 
times I think  so  too ; but  duty  must  he  done, 
though  every  fibre  of  the  heart  bleed.” 

So  he  wrote  on  the  fifteenth  of  August.  A 
few  weeks  later,  being  in  New  Haven,  he  went 
over  the  matter  more  fully  in  a long  conversation 
with  his  venerated  father-in-law,  and  finally  came 
to  the  distinct  conclusion,  that  if  he  could  set 
apart  a portion  of  his  small  salary  as  a missionary 
to  the  support  of  his  child,  he  would  at  once  offer 
himself  to  the  American  Board,  to  go  wherever 
they  should  direct. 

So  he  left  his  friends  in  New  Haven  on  a Sat- 
urday ; so,  with  many  passionate  kisses,  and  not 
unmanly  tears,  he  parted  from  his  darling  child, 
thinking  how  soon  he  was  to  leave  her,  almost 
cruelly,  for  the  rest  of  life’s  journey  ; and  so, 


e)4 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


with  a heavy  but  peaceful  heart,  he  returned  to 
his  parish  duties  for  the  Sabbath. 

But  swift-footed  Mercury  could  not  have  out- 
stripped the  message  which  came  the  very  next 
INIonday  throbbing  over  the  telegraphic  wires. 
“Your  child  is  sick — you  had  better  come  on.” 
This  message  came  to  the  care  of  the  writer,  as 
the  wires  did  not  extend  to  Fitchville.  Driving 
up  as  soon  as  possible  from  Norwich,  he  put  the 
fatal  document  into  the  hands  of  the  stricken 
man  ; and  well  does  he  remember  how  like  a knell 
of  death  it  evidently  fell  on  his  crushed  heart. 
He  read  it  all  in  a moment,  even  far  beyond  that 
one  fearful  line,  and  hastened  as  fast  as  possible 
to  his  dying  child.  lie  watched  by  his  last  fad- 
ing flower  about  a week,  saw  every  petal  droop 
and  fall,  and  then  laid  it  away  in  the  spot  already 
consecrated  by  his  precious  dead.  The  question 
was  now  entirely  settled;  the  child  was  perfectly 
provided  for ; and  the  fond  father,  once  more 
heart-broken,  and  yet  submissive  and  uncomplain- 
ing, turned  to  obey  the  Divine  behest.  Now  he 
must  be  a missionary. 

Ilis  next  letter  (Sep.  22)  was  in  these  words : 

“The  blow  has  descended,  and  I am  childless  ! 


STUNNED  BY  THE  BLOW. 


55 


No,  I will  not  say  that,  foi’  I still  have  a child — 
in  heaven.  My  darling,  after  a very  violent  ill- 
ness, with  great  suffering  towards  the  last,  died 
on  Monday  night.  Yesterday  we  committed  the 
lovely  remains  to  the  tomb,  not  without  a joyful 
anticipation  of  the  resurrection  from  the  dead, 
and  the  life  everlasting. 

“This  new  affliction  has  stunned  me.  I seem 
hardly  able  to  mourn.  I am  almost  deprived  of 
the  power  of  thought.  What  is  this  world  to  me 
now?  It  is  all  disappointment,  sorrow,  suffering, 
darkness.  There  is,  however,  light  above.  I en- 
deavor to  raise  my  eyes  to  that,  but  my  tears 
almost  blind  me  even  to  its  purity  and  brightness. 
Oh,  pray  for  me,  that  I may  not  be  left  to  mur- 
mur or  despair  ! Pray  that  these  almost  over- 
whelming afflictions  may  result  in  my  sanctifica- 
tion and  more  entire  consecration.  Pray  that  I 
may  be  willing  to  walk  even  in  darkness,  and  yet 
trust  in  God.” 

In  his  Journal  also  he  wrote,  “ Sept.  28. 
* * * * I write  with  a heart  more  sorrowful  than 
everbefore,  more  desolate,  more  hopeless.  * * * * 
The  only  ray  of  sunshine  wliich  shone  in  my  sky 
has  been  withdrawn  ; and  now,  so  far  as  earth  is 


56 


FIVK  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


concerned,  all  is  darkness.  I trust,  however, 
that  heaven  is  becoming  more  bright  and  more 
attractive.  God  by  removing  my  treasures  to.his 
own  abode,  is  drawing  my  thoughts  thither  also. 
Nothing  now  remains  to  occupy  my  attention  and 
enlist  my  efforts  but  his  kingdom  and  cause. 
Renewedly  do  I now  consecrate  myself  and  my 
all  to  him,  praying  that  he  will  send  me  wherever 
he  desires  me  to  serve  him,  though  it  be  to  the 
ends  of  the  earth. 

“ I set  out  this  morning  for  Cincinnati,  to  at- 
tend the  meeting  of  the  Board.  I intend  to  con- 
fer with  the  Secretaries  in  regard  to  my  duty  to 
become  a missionary.  The  Lord  guide  me  to  a 
right  decision.” 

A letter  received  from  Mr.  Aitchison  immedi- 
ately after  his  return  from  this  meeting,  (Oct. 
20,)  has  these  sentences,  showing  how  impossible 
it  was  for  him,  even  amid  the  shifting  scenes  of 
travel,  to  forget  his  griefs.  “ When  we  meet,  I 
shall  be  happy  to  give  you  a particular  narrative 
of  all  my  adventures  and  experience  since  I saw 
you  last.  This  much  I will  say,  however  ; plea- 
sure and  happiness  have  been  for  the  most  part 
strangers  to  my  bosom.  Alas  ! change  of  place 


MEETING  OF  BOARD  OF  MISSIONS. 


57 


and  of  scene  cannot  mitigate  our  sorrow  for  the 
loved  ones  who  have  left  us.  Never  ha-s  my 
grief  been  more  pungent,  my  desolation  more 
complete  than  during  the  present  week.  How 
sad,  sad  were  my  feelings  as  I traveled  from  New 
Haven  to-day.  One  short  year  ago  this  very 
week,  I came  here  a husband  and  a father ; now 
I am  a ividotver  and  childless.  The  meaning  of 
those  words  I pray  God  you  may  never  know. 
Pray  for  vie." 

Still  sad,  therefore,  and  yet  determined,  and 
in  obedience  to  the  manifest  will  of  the  great 
Head  of  the  church,  Mr.  Aitchison  now  wrote  to 
the  Secretaries  of  the  Board  at  Boston,  formally 
offering  himself  for  the  missionary  work.  After 
briefly  mentioning  the  peculiar  circumstances 
which  had  brought  him  to  this  decision,  he  says, 
“ The  path  leading  to  heathendom  lies  before  me 
clear  as  sunlight.  I long  to  preach  Christ  among 
the  Gentiles.  Only  in  a pagan  land  can  the 
cherished  desire  of  my  life  have  its  fulfillment. 

“As  to  my  motives  in  thus  seeking  the  mission- 
ary work,  I trust  I am  actuated  first  by  the  love  of 
Christ,  and  next  by  the  love  of  souls.  Other 


58 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


minor  considerations,  of  course,  have  their  weight 
with  me  ; but  these  it  is  unnecessary  to  mention. 

“ As  to  my  field  of  labor  abroad,  I at  first 
thought  of  Western  Asia,  but  circumstances  with 
which  some  of  the  Secretaries  are  acquainted 
lead  me  now  to  prefer  China.  The  numbers  of 
the  heathen  in  that  vast  empire,  and  the  difiicul- 
ties  attending  its  evangelization  render  it  addi- 
tionally attractive. 

“ As  to  my  health,  it  is  excellent.  I have 
hardly  lost  a month  from  sickness  during  twenty 
years.  Though  not  apparently  robust,  my  powers 
of  endurance  are,  I think,  more  than  ordinary.” 

The  offer  which  he  thus  made  of  himself  was 
readily  accepted,  and  with'  equal  alacrity  he  set 
about  the  needful  preparation  to  go  far  hence  to 
the  Gentiles.  Mr.  Fitch  and  all  that  little  fiock 
to  whom  he  ministered  so  acceptably  and  to  whom 
he  was  tenderly  attached,  greatly  desired  him 
to  remain  with  them.  They  used  argument 
and  entreaty;  but  all  in  vain.  “I  should  not 
now  dare”  he  said  to  the  writer,  “ to  remain 
in  this  country ; I should  not  dare  to  make  any 
arrangement,  or  lay  any  plan,  which  should  pre- 
vent my  being  a missionary.”  “ In  obedience  to 


HARD  PARTING. 


59 


God’s  reiterated  call,”  he  said  in  another  letter 
to  the  Secretaries  of  the  Board,  “ I go  to  China.” 
It  was  still  hard  to  part  with  surviving  kindred 
and  friends.  “Keenly,”  he  says,  in  a letter  to 
his  own  parents,  “ s-hall  I feel  the  sorrow  of  sep- 
aration from  all  those  I love ; but  still  I rejoice 
in  every  self-denial  to  which  duty  calls.  In  this 
short  life,  what  matters  it  where  or  how  we  spend 
the  time,  if  only  we  are  duly  prepared  for  that 
endless  eternity^  upon  whose  scenes  we  shall  soon 
enter  ?” 


60 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


CHAPTER  V. 

His  Ordination — Embarks  for  China — Storm  and  Peril — First 
Sabbath  Service  at  Sea — Lines  to  New  Haven — Efforts  for 
the  Sailors — Lines  to  a Certain  Cottage  in  New  Haven — Em- 
ployment of  Time. 

Mr.  Aitchison  was  ordained  to  the  missionary 
work  in  the  Second  Congregational  Church  of 
Norwich,  on  the  4th  day  of  January,  1854,  which 
was  his  birthday,  he  then  being  twenty-eight 
years  of  age.  The  sermon  was  preached  by  Rev. 
Dr.  Hawes,  of  Hartford  ; a solemn,  appropriate, 
and  peculiarly  touching  charge  to  the  candidate 
was  given  by  his  beloved  father-in-law ; and  it 
was  the  happy  privilege  of  the  writer,  as  a par- 
ticular friend,  to  give  him  the  right  hand  of  fel- 
lowship, and  in  behalf  of  the  Ordaining  Council, 
to  bid  him  a hearty  God-speed  in  his  glorious 
work.  And  it  was  but  giving  voice  to  the  sin- 
cerest  thoughts  and  wishes  of  all  present,  to  as- 
sure him  of  their  true  respect,  their  entire  confi- 
dence ; and  that  their  highest  hopes  and  most 


APPOINTED  TO  SHAXUllAI,  CHINA. 


61 


earnest  prayers  should  follow  him  even  to  the 
ends  of  the  earth. 

He  was  appointed,  Avith  the  Rev.  Henry  Blod- 
get,  who  was  his  college  classmate,  associate 
Tutor,  and  a fellow  student  in  the  Theological 
Seminai’y,  to  commence  a mission  at  Shanghai. 
And  these  are  the  young  men  on  hoard  the  good 
ship  Candace,  the  11th  of  April,  1854,  bound  for 
Canton.  How  they  passed  their  time  during  the 
long  voyage,  what  storms  and  calms,  what  sights 
and  perils  they  passed,  will  appear,  in  part  at 
least,  from  the  following  extracts  from  Mr.  Ait- 
chison’s  journal. 

“At  precisely  half-past  twelve  we  left  the 
wharf  in  tow  of  a steam-tug.  Last  adieus  were 
waved  by  and  to  the  few  acquaintances  who  stood 
upon  the  shore  ; and  then  we  addressed  ourselves 
to  the  task  of  keeping  calm,  while  we  penned  a 
few  farewell  lines  to  the  friends  nearest  and  dear- 
est. At  about  three  o’clock  the  sails  were  set, 
the  hawser  which  connected  the  bark  with  the  tug 
cast  loose,  and  we  stood  away  China-ward,  Avith 
a favoring  breeze.  Soon  after  sunset  the  heights 
of  Never-sink  were  rapidly  belying  their  name, 
by  their  disappearance  beneath  the  waves. 


62 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA 


“ Before  ton  o’clock  I retired  to  my  berth  for 
the  night,  after  committing  to  God  in  silent 
prayer  all  my  dear  friends  whose  society  has 
been  so  sweet,  myself,  and  tbe  great  work  to 
which  I have  devoted  everything  I have  and  am — 
the  Salvation  of  China. 

“ April  22,  Sat.  Eleven  days  have  passed  since 
my  last  entry.  During  this  long  period,  we  have 
scarcely  seen  the  sun.  We  have  been  traversing 
what  are  called  in  the  charts  the  stormy  regions 
of  the  Gulf  Stream.  Clouds,  rain,  ivind,  waves, 
sea-sickness,  danger  and  misery — are  the  words 
which  apply  to  the  voyage  thus  far.  The  wind 
has  boxed  the  compass  more  than  once,  blowing 
a gale  from  every  point  in  succession.  The 
morning  after  leaving  New  York  there  was  for  a 
few  hours  almost  a dead  calm.  As  we  were  on 
soundings,  Mr.  B.  and  myself  got  out  our  fishing 
gear,  and  went  industriously  to  work.  I had  the 
honor  of  hauling  in  the  only  fish  captured — a no- 
ble cod,  weighing  forty-two  pounds.  The  next 
day  the  sky  became  overcast,  tbe  wind  rose,  tbe 
sea  ran  hill  h’gh,  and  our  troubles  commenced. 
Sunday  morning  at  1 o’clock,  A.  M.,  the  violence 
of  the  storm  compelled  us  to  heave  to.  For 


Five  Years  in  China. 


GREAT  PERIL. 


63 


hours  I contemplated  death  as  an  impending 
event,  and  looked  into  my  prospects  for  eternity. 
Though  deeply  sensible  of  my  sins,  and  desirous 
of  living  to  do  something  for  the  redemption  of 
the  heathen  nations,  I think  I was  enabled  to 
cast  myself  into  the  arms  of  my  Saviour,  and  say, 

‘ I am  ready  to  be  offered,  if  such  is  thy  holy 
■will.’  God  in  his  great  mercy,  ho'^vever,  pro- 
tected us  through  all  dangers  seen  and  unseen ; 
and  to-day  the  ocean  is  comparatively  calm,  and 
the  aspect  of  the  heavens  favorable. 

“ April  23,  Sab.  This  day  may  be  called,  in  a 
certain  sense,  my  first  Sabbath  at  sea,  as  I "was 
only  lasting,  and  not  living,  one  'week  ago.  Im- 
mediately after  'washing  and  dressing  I "went  for- 
■ward  on  the  bo'w-sprit  and  enjoyed  a pleasant 
hour  of  communion  with  God,  and  of  meditation 
on  holy  themes.  I read  my  Bible,  sang  and 
prayed  aloud,  my  voice  mingling  with  the  mur- 
mur of  the  waves  as  they  dashed  beneath.  Every 
thing  seemed  hallowed  by  the  presence  of  God. 
There  was,  as  I have  often  felt  on  shore,  a 
seeming  spell  laid  upon  every  object  in  nature, 
in  token  of  the  sacredness  of  the  day.  The  sky 
was  almost  cloudless,  the  sun  shining  in  his 


64 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


strength,  the  sea  rolling  majestically  and  yet 
gently,  the  air  balmy  but  invigorating. 

“ After  breakfast  I consulted  the  captain  in 
regard  to  the  distribution  of  books  and  tracts 
among  the  crew  ; he  gave  his  full  and  cordial  con- 
sent to  any  efforts  we  might  choose  to  make  for 
the  spiritual  welfare  of  the  ship’s  company ; in- 
forming me  at  the  same  time,that  it  was  bis  in- 
tention to  call  the  sailors  together  and  distribute 
among  them  books  and  tracts  which  the  Bible 
and  Tract  Societies  had  furnished  for  that  pur- 
pose. This  was  accordingly  done,  each  man 
being  furnished  with  a Testament  and  several 
tracts,  in  the  language  with  which  he  was  most 
familiar.  It  was  interesting  to  see  the  eagerness 
with  which  all  accepted  the  volumes,  and  more 
interesting  an  hour  afterward  to  see  them  here 
and  there  on  the  deck  in  the  shade,  attentively 
reading  what  had  been  thus  furnished. 

“ At  eleven  o’clock  w'e  held  our  first  public  re- 
ligious service,  which  was  conducted  throughout 
by  Mr.  B.  His  discourse  was  very  appropriate 
and  practical,  founded  on  Matt.  viii.  1 — 4.  The 
majority  of  the  sailors, — I regret  that  I cannot 
say  all, — were  present,  and  listened  with  gratify- 


SERMOX  OX  BOAl!J>. 


65 


ing  attention  to  all  the  exercises.  Since  dinner 
my  time  has  been  spent  in  reading  Alleine’s 
‘ Heaven  Opened ; ’ and  in  conversing  on  per- 
sonal religion  with  one  of  the  mates.  He  labors 
under  the  mistaken  notion  that  an  officer  of  a 
ship  cannot  really  be  a good  man  ; that  he  must 
swear  now  and  then,  or  lose  his  authority  over 
the  men.  He  moreover  tried  to  be  a Universalist, 
for  the  sake  of  quieting  his  conscience,  while  liv- 
ing in  the  conscious  neglect  of  every  duty  which 
he  owes  to  God.  I tried  faithfully  hut  kindly  to 
show  him  his  error  and  danger.  While  uneasy 
afterward  from  the  fear  erf  having  offended  him, 
he  came  up  from  below  with  a pair  of  new  worked 
slippers  in  his  hand,  which  he  begged  me  to  ac- 
cept ; testifying  plainly  by  this  act  that  he  was 
not  indifferent  to  my  interest  in  his  true  welfare. 

“ On  the  whole,  this  day  has  been  a Sabbath 
of  rest  to  my  soul.  God  has  seemed  near,  Christ 
precious,  heaven  attractive.  I have  thought 
much  of  the  past  and  the  future ; much  of  my 
loved  ones  living,  and  more  of  the  dead.  Quiet 
tears  have  stolen  down  my  cheeks,  which  were 
not  all  expressive  of  sorrow.  My  heart  is  often 
full  to  overflowing.  Visions  of  a blessedness 


00 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


which  is  unalloyed,  and  knows  no  end,  are  ever 
rising  to  my  spiritual  eye.  Thought,  and  desire, 
and  feeling  are  ever  busy  with  what  has  been,  or 
what  is  to  be.  Oh,  that  I could  find  my  rest  and 
my  enjoyment  more  fully,  more  exclusively,  in 
God.  Then  would  every  event  be  to  me  a bless- 
ing.” 

A few  days  later,  Mr.  Aitchison  was  taken 
quite  unwell,  and  suffered  considerably  for  a time. 
Then,  more  than  ever,  his  mind  turned  back  to 
scenes  of  other  days ; and  “ while  suffering  the 
most,  and  feeling  the  saddest,”  he  says,  “my 
thoughts,  almost  of  their  own  accord,  took  the 
following  form  : 


There  is  a hallowed  spot. 

Beyond  the  Atlantic  wave, 

To  which  my  heart  in  sadness  turns — 
My  much  loved  Mary’s  grave. 

Within  the  church-yard  gate 
That  hallowed  spot  is  found ; 

Where  stands  a snow-white  tablet, 
There  droops  a grassy  mound. 

Beneath  that  grassy  mound 
Are  wife  and  child  asleep ; 

While  I,  a weary  mourner. 

Am  left  alone  to  weep. 


CHEERING  -VIEWS. 


67 


But  soon  these  tears  will  cease. 

My  wanderings  all  be  o'er. 

And  husband,  wife,  and  child,  in  heaven 
Shall  meet  to  part  no  more. 

“ April  29.  Have  had  some  cheering  views  of 
the  future.  Find  myself  frequently  repeating, 
with  prospective  reference  to  my  work  in  China, 
those  lines  which  seem  to  have  been  favorites  of 
the  great  Judson  : 

“ In  these  deserts  let  me  labor. 

On  these  mountains  let  me  tell 
How  he  died,  the  blessed  Saviour, 

To  redeem  a world  from  hell.” 

“ Oh,  if  I could  but  Avin  some  poor  Chinese  to 
Christ,  how  more  than  repaid  should  I be  for  all 
the  self-denial  it  costs  to  go  to  that  distant  land  ! 
But  let  me  remember  that  mine  is  the  work  ; the 
result  is  of  God.  My  life  trill  not  be  in  vain,  I 
am  confident,  even  though  I should  die  before 
reaching  my  destination.  My  consecration,  im- 
perfect as  it  is,  Avill,  I trust,  have  some  influence 
with  others  in  leading  them  to  the  consideration 
of  personal  duty  to  the  heathen. 

“ April  30,  Sabbath.  Early  in  the  morning  had 
a delightful  conversation  with  Mr.  B.  on  the 


68 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


nature  (*f  heaven’s  felicity.  We  are  both  of  the 
opinion  that  much  of  the  Scripture  language  is 
figurative  ; but  I am  more  materialistic  in  my  an- 
ticipations than  he  ; more  prone  to  speculate  on 
the  subject ; perhaps  less  disposed  to  rest  satisfied 
•with  the  plain  revelation  of  God  in  regard  to  all 
the  future.  I trust  my  conjectures,  analogies, 
reasonings,  and  I may  add,  my  hopes  will  never 
be  at  variance  with  divine  truth.  I long  to  know 
more  about  the  condition  of  the  departed.  I 
love  to  think  of  the  joys  of  the  ransomed.  I 
find  profit  in  meditating  on  the  glory  that  is  to 
be  revealed  in  the  saints.  Surely  we  can  hardly 
think  too  much  of  heaven. 

“May  1.  Our  arrangements  for  public  religious 
exercises  on  board  are  mainly  completed,  and  are 
as  follows : 

“1.  A blessing  asked  before  every  meal  by  Mr. 
B.  and  myself  alternately. 

“ 2.  Prayer  every  evening  on  deck,  accompanied 
by  the  reading  of  the  Scriptures,  and  the  repeti- 
tion of  a hymn;  conducted  by  us  successively  on 
alternate  weeks. 

“ 3.  A sermon  on  the  Sabbath,  by  us  alter- 


RELIGIOUS  SERVICES. 


69 


nately,  with  the  usual  accompaniments  of  the 
Sanctuary. 

“ 4.  A Bible-class,  on  Sabbath  afternoon,  Mr.  B. 
having  one  watch,  and  I the  other. 

“In  general,  Mr.  B.  is  to  have  particular  spir- 
itual care  over  one  watch,  and  I over  the  other. 
Oh ! that  the  Lord  may  bless  these  efforts  to  the 
salvation  of  some  among  the  officers  and  crew. 
We  may  surely  take  encouragement  from  what 
missionaries  have  sometimes  accomplished  in  their 
voyages  to  and  from  their  fields  of  labor.  How 
glorious  the  results  of  Hr.  Judson’s  prayers  and 
efforts,  on  board  the  Ramsay,  on  that  otherwise  sad 
voyage  from  Calcutta  to  Maulmain,  via  Mau- 
ritius. Already  the  sailors  manifest  a deep 
interest  in  everything  attempted  for  their  soul’s 
good. 

“ May  3.  For  the  first  time  since  the  voyage 
commenced,  I took  down  the  Chinese  books  this 
morning,  and  began  the  study  of  the  language  in 
earnest.  It  looks  truly  formidable;  but  I can 
do  all  things  through  Christ  which  stren^theneth 
me.  My  forenoons  Avill  be  mainly  occupied  in 
this  way. 


70 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


“ May  8.  My  lonely  musings  have  recently 
taken  the  shape  of — 

LINES 

Addressed  to  a cerlatii  little  cottage  in  New  Haven, 

Dear  home  of  years!  thy  sacred  joys 
Can  never  more  be  mine; 

I ne’er  shall  see  the  friends  I loved 
In  days  of  ‘ Auld  Lang  Syne.’ 

And  yet  thy  walls  before  me  rise, 

Wrapt  in  the  leafy  shade, 

Where,  through  the  livelong  summer’s  day 
The  birds  sweet  concord  made. 

In  dreams  I visit  thee  again; 

AVithin  thy  doors  I stand ; 

Familiar  forms  around  me  throng. 

And  press  my  willing  hand. 

Once  more  my  Mary's  smile  I see ; 

Her  low  sweet  voice  I hear. 

The  one  was  music  to  my  soul. 

The  other  to  my  ear. 

Once  more  she  tunes  the  light  guitar. 

And  sweeps  the  sounding  strings; 

AVhile  loving  list’ners  laugh  or  sigh. 

Moved  by  the  songs  she  sings. 

Time  flies — to  crown  our  wedded  love. 

There  came  an  angel  child. 

Whose  face  was  like  her  mother’s  face. 

So  fair,  so  glad,  so  mild. 


WEST  AFRICA. 


71 


Bright  days  of  sunshine  come  and  go, 
The  future  greets  our  eyes  ; 

With'.o  its  realm,  dim  though  it  be, 

A home  of  beauty  lies. 

Together  there  we  pray  and  toil. 

For  sinning,  dying  men  ; 

Together  calmly  sleep  in  death ; 

Then  live  and  love  again. 

The  dream — dispelling  morning  break* 
Along  the  path  I tread ; 

And  memory  whispers  to  my  heart. 

Thy  joys  and  hopes  are  dead. 

Dear  home  of  years ! farewell ! farewell ; 

Between  us  oceans  roar; 

May  all  who  loved  beneath  thy  roof. 
Soon  meet  to  part  no  more. 


“ May  13.  My  eyes  have  turned  eastward  for 
the  last  few  days  towards  the  Gaboon  Mission, 
West  Africa.  I almost  envy  the  brethren  there 
their  retirement  from  all  the  turmoil  of  this  world. 
I was  strongly  inclined  at  first  to  select  that  for 
my  field.  It  has  attractions  for  me  which  China 
does  not  possess.  But  my  Master  pointed  to  the 
land  of  Sinim,  and  I cheerfully  go  thither.  But, 
dear  fellow  laborers,  I heartily  bid  you  God 
speed.  Be  not  discouraged.  The  day  is  dawn- 


72 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


ing  on  the  nations.  Even  Ethiopia  will  soon 
if  indeed  she  be  not  now,  stretching  forth  her 
hands  unto  God.  In  the  last  day  may  you  have 
the  privilege  of  placing  many  jewels  in  the  Re- 
deemer’s crown,  whose  reflected  rays  will  brighten 
those  that  encircle  your  own  brow.” 

The  ensuing  record  indicates  an  earnest  desire 
to  make  the  most  of  his  time. 

“The  following  plan  for  spending  each  day  I 
adopted  some  time  since,  and  have  seen  no  reason 
to  make  any  essential  change — six  to  eight 
o’clock,  devotional  reading  and  exercises;  eight 
to  eight  and  a half,  breakfast ; eight  and  a half 
to  nine,  recreation  and  miscellanies ; nine  to 
twelve,  study  of  Chinese ; twelve  to  one,  recrea- 
tion and  miscellanies ; one  to  one  and  a half, 
dinner;  one  and  a half  to  four,  general  reading; 
four  to  five,  writing  in  journal,  &c.  ; five  to  six, 
devotional  reading  and  exercises;  six  to  six  and 
a half,  tea ; six  and  a half  to  eleven,  recreation, 
conversation,  star-gazing,  thinking.” 

This  last  word  is  heavily  underscored  in  the 
manuscript ; and  ive  know  from  his  letters  of 
what,  in  those  lonely  night  hours,  far  out  on  the 
broad  ocean,  he  was  often  thinking;  of  home, 


PLAN  FOE  SPENDING  TIME. 


73 


kindred,  and  loved  ones,  in  this,  and  in  the  better 
land.  “Never,”  he  wrote  about  the  same  time 
to  his  parents  and  sisters,  of  whom  he  had  taken 
sorrowful  leave  for  all  the  rest  of  earth’s  pil- 
grimage, “were  you  so  consciously  dear  to  me  as 
now.  I think  of  you  hourly.  Why  then,  you 
will  ask,  did  I leave  you  ? Because  the  love  of 
Christ  and  perishing  souls  constrained  me.” 
Referring  in  another  place  to  the  voyage,  he 
says,  “ Many  an  hour,  both  by  day  and  by  night, 
was  spent  by  me  in  pensive  revery.  The  past 
filled  my  thoughts.  Memory  wandered  alter- 
nately among  flowers  and  graves.” 

7 


74 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Studies — Sailor  Converted — Terrible  Storm  and  Narrow  Escape- 
Gratitude — Alone,  yet  not  alone — At  Java — Sights  and  Scenes 
— Missions  of  the  Middle  Ages. 

“ May  17.  I have  now  mastered  the  two  hun- 
dred and  fourteen  radicals,  which  may  be  re- 
garded as  in  some  sense  the  Chinese  alphabet. 
I congratulate  myself,  therefore,  on  having  ad- 
vanced one  step  toward  the  acquisition  of  that 
most  difficult  of  all  difficult  languages.  I hardly 
dare  attempt  another  step  without  the  guidance 
of  a teacher,  lest  I go  wrong.  I shall  at  least, 
from  choice  as  well  as  necessity,  follow  the  ad- 
vice of  the  old  Latin  motto,  '■Festina  lente.' 

“ May  22.  Finished  Smith’s  ‘ Researches  in 
China and,  on  the  whole,  derive  encourage- 
ment from  his  plain  but  interesting  narrative. 
Little,  indeed,  has  yet  been  accomplished ; and 
so  has  it  been  in  the  early  history  of  other  mis- 
sions, whose  subsequent  success  has  surprised  and 


STUDIES  AT  SEA. 


75 


delighted  the  whole  Christian  world.  When  the 
set  time  to  favor  Zion  in  China  comes,  we  know 
not  Avhat  wonders  of  grace  may  be  exhibited. 
Happy  shall  I be,  if  I may  but  clear  away  a little 
of  the  rubbish,  which  has  been  accumulating  there 
for  centuries,  in  preparation  for  the  erection  of  a 
spiritual  temple,  where  God  shall  be  worshiped 
in  ages  to  come.  I often  feel  like  putting  my 
hand  to  the  work,  not  with  a romantic,  but  with 
an  enthusiastic  spirit. 

“May  27.  I enjoy  the  hours  set  apart  for  di- 
rect communion  with  God,  more  and  more. 
Heaven  and  the  holy  objects  therein,  are  becom- 
ing, more  than  ever  before,  all  in  all  to  me.  Not 
that  I am  impatiently  awaiting  the  termination 
of  my  earthly  toils  and  sufferings.  I am  willing 
to  bear  the  burden  and  heat  of  the  day,  all  my 
allotted  time ; but  then,  how  I shall  welcome  the 
hour  of  full  discharge ! How  gladly  shall  I as- 
cend to  the  presence  of  my  God,  and  to  the  per- 
fection of  his  saints. 

“ May  28.  In  thinking  of  my  future  work  in 
Chinn,  I have  been  comforted  with  the  reflection 
that  Bible  Christianity  is  to  be  inculcated,  and 
not  American  Theology.  How  simple  a thing 


76 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


the  gospel  is,  adapted  to  every  grade  of  intellect 
How  admirable  the  manner  in  which  Christ  im- 
pressed the  truth  upon  his  auditors.  Fifty 
modern  treatises  on  Theology  are  not  so  useful 
to  a missionary  as  one  of  the  New  Testament 
parables.  There  is  certainly  little  mystery  or 
difficulty  in  the  apostolical  precept,  ‘Believe  in 
the  Lord  Jesus  Christ,  and  thou  shalt  be  saved.’ 
All  can  understand  it,  all  may  obey  it. 

“June  11.  This  evening  had  personal  conver- 
sation with  two  of  the  sailors.  One  of  them 
seems  to  be  very  near  the  kingdom  of  heaven. 
On  inquiring  at -the  outset,  ‘How  do  you  feel 
now  in  regard  to  this  subject his  reply  was, 
‘ Miserable  ! miserable  ! ’ I tried  to  direct  him 
to  the  Lamb  of  God,  that  taketh  away  the  sin  of 
the  world.  He  seemed  to  feel  all  that  was  said ; 
but  pleaded  the  difficulties  in  the  way  of  living  a 
Christian  life  in  the  forecastle.  Poor  fellow  ! I 
pity  him,  but  his  duty  is  plain.  I told  him  he 
must  be  willing  to  suffer  for  Christ’s  sake.  Oh, 
that  he  may  be  brought  savingly  to  Jesus. 

“ June  15.  This  evening  the  sailor  mentioned, 
expresses  the  hope  that  he  has  given  himself  to 
Christ,  and  has  been  accepted.  This  will  greatly 


SAILOR  CONVERTED. 


77 


encourage  us  in  our  further  labors  among  the 
crew.  I have  tried  to  give  him  such  advice  as  I 
thought  would  be  most  serviceable  to  him.  God 
grant  that  he  may  not  be  permitted  to  rest  in  a 
deception. 

“ June  23.  A fit  of  industry  which  recently 
seized  me,  has  resulted  in  leading  me  to  devote 
my  evenings,  as  well  as  mornings  to  the  study  of 
Chinese.  At  present  I am  reading,  in  order, 
Williams’ Vocabulary ; a dry,  hut  I trust,  not 
unprofitable  task.  It  renders  me  familiar  with 
the  cliaracters,  and  gives  me  an  insight  into  the 
structure  and  genius  of  the  language.  No  secular 
occupation  affords  me  more  real  pleasure  than 
this,  uninviting  as  it  may  appear  at  first  view.  I 
would  fain  hope  that  the  love  of  Christ  sweetens 
this  toil,  and  every  other,  which  has  for  its  ob- 
ject the  salvation  of  men  and  the  glory  of  God. 

“July  3,  Monday.  ‘ Bless  the  Lord,  0 my  soul, 
and  all  that  is  within  me  bless  his  holy  name  !’ 
Such  is  tlie  utterance  of  my  heart  in  reviewing 
the  last  two  days.  We  have  been  in  imminent 
danger  of  shipwreck,  and  yet  been  mercifully 
delivered.  The  storm,  which  commenced  on  Sat- 
urday, increased  in  fury  until  last  night  at  dusk. 


78 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


It  was  made  up  of  a succession  of  squalls,  with 
intervals  of  comparative  calm.  Almost  every 
squall  was  accompanied  by  hail.  The  sky  was 
clear,  directly  over  head,  a considerable  part  of 
the  time,  while  dense  masses  of  cloud  rested  on 
the  horizon  all  around.  The  sea,  raised  to  a 
fearful  height,  broke  over  the  quarter  deck  con- 
tinually, threatening  to  sweep  the  helmsman  from 
his  post.  The  barometer  stood  at  29.05.  We 
scudded  under  close-reefed  topsails  and  reefed 
foresails,  till  last  evening  about  five  o’clock,  when 
we  shipped  a huge  sea,  which  passed  over  the 
boat,  carried  away  a large  part  of  the  monkey 
rail,  stove  the  galley-door,  and  set  adrift  the 
scuttle-butt,  hen  coops,  spars  and  the  like. 

“Knowing  that  a few  more  such  seas  would 
wreck  us,  the  captain  concluded  to  heave  to, 
which  he  did  under  close-reefed  main-topsail. 
This  done  he  entered  with  the  remark,  ‘ Every- 
thing now  depends  on  the  good  qualities  of  the 
vessel;  if  she  ships  a sea,  it  is  all  over  with  her.’ 
Our  gallant  little  bark  behaved  nobly,  however, 
and  rode  like  a sea-bird  amid  the  hills  and  the 
valleys  of  water.  She  seemed  like  a thing  of 


ALONE,  YET  NOT  ALONE. 


79 


life,  struggling  with  a thousand  furies,  which 
hissed  and  shrieked  around  her. 

“I  was  in  momentary  expectation  of  death  du- 
ring part  of  the  time ; but,  through  grace,  I felt 
no  fear  of  what  was  to  follow.  My  sins  rose  to 
view,  hut  I was  able  to  look  from  them  to  Him 
who  taketh  away  the  sin  of  the  world.  It  was  a 
pleasing  reflection  in  those  hours  that  I had  at 
least  proposed  to  he  a missionary.  I rejoiced 
that  I had  come  thus  far  on  my  way  to  preach  the 
gospel  among  pagans.  I trust  the  Lord  has  a 
great  work  for  me  to  perform  in  China,  and  that 
he  is  sparing  me  that  I may  finish  it.  Oh,  may  I 
henceforth  be  more  entirely  his,  both  in  life  and 
in  death. 

“July  9.  The  sailor  previously  mentioned  is 
still  giving  us  encouraging  evidence  that  a radical 
change  is  progressing,  if  not  already  wrought,  in 
his  character. 

“July  17.  The  following  lines  are  the  product 
of  a pensive  hour  this  evening.” 

ALONE,  YET  NOT  ALONE. 

Alone  I run  the  race  of  life, 

And  haste  to  reach  its  goal; 

No  kindred  spirit  by  my  side, 

To  cheer  my  fainting  soul. 


80 


FIVE  YEARS  IK  CHIKA. 


Alone  I heave  the  mournful  sigh 
And  shed  the  bitter  tear; 

Ne  friend  to  share  the  bounding  joy, 

Or  check  the  rising  fear. 

Alone  I trace  sad  memory’s  page, 

Where  lives  the  happy  past ; 

Weeping  the  early  death  of  hope, 

Too  sweet,  too  bright,  to  last. 

Alone  I bow  my  knees  in  prayer 
At  morn,  at  noon,  at  night;  . 

For  wife  or  child  no  more  I plead, — 

They  walk  the  realms  of  light. 

Alone?  no!  distant  be  tbe  thought, 

While  Christ  my  Saviour  lives; 

He  knows  each  pang  which  rends  my  heart, 

My  weakness  he  forgives. 

Alone  I need  not  be  in  life, 

Kor  yet  in  death’s  dread  hour; 

0,  Jesus!  keep  me  near  thy  side, 

Uphold  me  by  thy  power! 

“ July  20.  About  half  past  five  this  afternoon, 
the  joyful  cry,  Land  ho  ! was  heard  from  the  fore- 
top-sail yard,  where  one  of  the  sailors  was  at 
work ; and  soon  all  eyes  were  directed  to  Java 
Head,  which  loomed  up  in  the  distance,  like  a 
pile  of  cumulus  clouds.  It  is  just  one  hundred 
days  since  our  eyes  were  resting  on  the  heights 


LAND,  HO 


81 


of  Neversink,  at  the  entrance  of  Xew  York  Bay. 
The  evening  was  spent  in  a considerably  excited 
state  of  feeling  by  all  on  board,  the  officers  being 
busy  in  identifying  the  different  heights  which 
! successively  appeared,  and  the  passengers  in 
I alternately  gazing  out  on  the  dusky  landscape, 
and  penning  a few  lines  for  home.  How  grate- 
ful should  we  he  to  Him  who  has  protected  us 
' thus  far,  amid  all  the  dangers  of  our  watery  way  ; 

' who  has  kept  us  from  sickness,  and  given  us 

I prosperous  winds.  0 Lord,  let  thy  care  still  he 
I over  us  ; bring  us  to  our  destined  port ; and  pre- 
pare us  to  be  eminently  useful  among  the 
I heathen. 

' “ July  21.  Long  before  sunrise  this  morning, 

I was  on  deck  gazing  delightedly  on  the  scene 

I spread  around.  Java  lay  on  the  one  hand,  and 

I Sumatra  on  the  other ; the  former  distinctly  re- 
vealed in  the  gray  dawn,  the  latter  distant  and 
||  shadowy.  The  sun  rose  magnificently  from 

j'  among  the  mountain  summits,  gilding  with  his 

beams  the  sky,  the  sea,  the  shore.  Oh,  thought 
I,  could  the  glorious  Sun  of  righteousness  thus 
illuminate  these  islands,  what  Edens  they  might 
become.  Silently  did  my  prayer  ascend  to  God, 


82 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


that  their  wretched  inhabitants  might  soon  be- 
come acquainted  with  the  way  of  salvation  through 
a crucified  Saviour. 

‘‘  Soon  after  sunrise  we  observed  a native 
boat  approaching  us,  and  in  a few  moments  four 
Malays  were  on  our  deck.  Their  only  clothing 
was  a cloth  extending  from  the  waist  to  the  knee, 
and  a sort  of  turban  on  the  head.  As  we  slowly 
advanced  tOAvard  our  anchorage  at  Anjier  Point, 
boat  after  boat  came  alongside ; all  filled  Avith 
swarthy  natives,  and  the  productions  of  the  island, 
including  bananas,  yams,  oranges,  mangosteens, 
cocoanuts,  parrots,  Java  sparrows,  monkeys,  and 
several  curious  kinds  of  little  animals.  Tho 
owners  of  these  various  articles  displayed  con- 
summate tact,  both  in  bargaining  and  begging. 
The  boats  were  most  of  them,  like  the  canoes  of 
some  Indian  tribes,  made  by  holloAving  out  a 
single  log.  The  apparatus  for  steering  was 
primitive,  but  ingenious. 

“ We  cast  anchor  at  twelve  o’clock,  about  a 
quarter  of  a mile  from  the  Dutch  Fort.  The 
Captain  gave  us  an  invitation  to  go  ashore  Avith 
him,  Avhich  we  of  course  eagerly  accepted,  both 
for  the  purpose  of  leaving  our  letters  and  seeing 


LOOKING  AROUND. 


83 


the  novelties.  Immediately  on  landing,  an  offi- 
cial with  bare-legs  and  a drawn  sword  escorted  us 
into  the  presence  of  the  Governor,  who  lives  in  a 
comfortable  house  not  far  from  the  wharf.  We 
made  our  way  thither  among  crowds  of  natives, 
some  of  whom  were  busy  and  many  of  whom  were 
idle.  The  Governor  received  us  with  great  cor- 
diality, the  Captain  and  himself  being  old  ac- 
quaintances. There  we  heard  respecting  the  in- 
surrection in  China  and  the  war  in  Europe  to  the 
date  of  24th  of  May.  Moreover,  we  had  the 
opportunity  of  refusing  a glass  both  of  wine  and 
of  gin.  In  reply  to  our  inquiries,  the  Governor 
assured  us  that  the  Island  contained  a population 
of  more  than  ten  millions  ; and,  what  was  matter 
of  greater  surprise  to  us,  that  a single  person 
unarmed  might  travel  throughout  its  whole  extent 
without  the  fear  of  molestation ; and  that  too, 
(to  pile  wonder  on  wonder,)  even  if  it  were  known 
that  he  carried  with  him  thousands  of  dollars  * 
The  apartments  were  large  and  the  ceilings  very 
high.  Numbers  of  servants  were  passing  back 
and  forth. 

“ We  next  proceeded  to  the  house  of  the  Java- 
nese merchant  from  whom  our  Captain  always 


84 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


procures  his  supplies,  where  we  found  a table  set 
out  with  refreshments  for  us.  Rarely  have  I en- 
joyed a lunch  more.  There  were  piled  up  on 
numerous  small  dishes,  oranges,  mangosteens, 
bananas,  several  kinds  of  little  cakes,  and  a 
something  which  looked  and  tasted  like  cocoanut- 
candy.  Tea  and  English  ale  were  the  potables. 
While  addressing  ourselves  to  these  viands,  the 
door  was  crowded  with  lookers  on,  and  some  even 
pressed  into  the  room  for  a nearer  view,  all  which 
seemed  to  be  no  violation  of  Javanese  etiquette. 
One  of  the  wives  of  our  host  was  present,  (he 
h.as  two,)  and  his  only  child,  a boy  four  or  five 
years  old,  was  playing  about  the  floor  naked. 

“ With  a native  boy  as  a guide,  we  next  visited 
the  fort,  which  is  garrisoned  by  forty-five  Euro- 
pean soldiers,  besides  some  native  troops.  Every- 
thing here  seemed  to  be  in  good  order,  though  an 
English  ship  of  the  line  would  soon  spoil  the 
beauty  of  the  walls  and  embankments.  We 
called  on  the  Doctor  to  whom  we  were  directed, 
with  a view  to  ascertain  whether  there  was  a resi- 
dent Chaplain.  He  reeeived  us  as  if  we  had 
been  old  friends,  and  with  the  aid  of  three  lan- 
guages, English,  German  and  Latin,  we  managed 


THINGS  SEEN. 


85 


to  carry  on  quite  a lively  conversation.  From 
him  we  learned  that  religious  services  were  per- 
formed only  once  in  three  months,  by  a clergy- 
man who  came  for  that  purpose  from  Batavia. 

On  leaving  the  fort,  our  guide  conducted  us 
to  a fine  cocoanut  grove  not  far  distant,  by  a 
path  lined  with  the  luxuriant  vegetation  of  the 
tropics.  The  cocoanut  trees  are  set  out  in  regu- 
lar rows,  and  are  loaded  with  fruit  in  all  stages 
of  growth,  from  the  forming  nut  to  that  which  is 
fully  ripe.  After  returning  to  the  village  we 
joined  the  captain  and  proceeded  to  the  Moham- 
medan Mosque.  The  door  was  open,  and  we 
entered.  The  building  was  square,  rising  in  the 
centre  to  a point.  The  floor  was  of  stone  or 
plaster,  partly  covered  with  mats.  On  the  right 
and  left  of  the  door  were  suspended  two  drums 
of  enormous  size,  which  are  probably  used  to  sum- 
mon the  faithful  to  their  orisons.  The  pulpit 
had  very  much  the  appearance,  and  the  relative 
position,  of  the  pulpit  in  most  American  Episco- 
pal Churches.  Conspicuous  in  the  back  of  it 
were  two  apertures  of  crescent  form,  the  symbol 
of  that  delusive  faith.  IIow  strange  that  an 
island  so  remote  should  be  devoted  to  the  false 


8 


86 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


prophet ! Shame  on  Christians  vho  are  so  in- 
different to  the  progress  of  Christ’s  cause  among 
men  ! On  leaving  the  building,  we  noticed  two 
pools  of  water,  which  are  doubtless  for  the  ablu- 
tions of  the  worshipers. 

“ Before  returning  to  the  ship.  Mr.  B.  and 
myself  strolled  down  one  of  the  long  streets, 
everywhere  admiring  nature,  and  pitying  man. 
Coming  unexpectedly  upon  the  market  place,  we 
passed  back  and  forth  among  its  stalls,  many  of 
which  were  loaded  with  the  betel  nut  in  some 
form.  Scarcely  did  we  meet  an  individual  in  all 
our  wanderings  whose  red  lips  did  not  betray  the 
use  of  this  article.  This  practice,  and  that  of 
filing  and  blackening  the  teeth,  give  to  the 
mouths  of  all  a hideous  appearance,  rendering 
positively  ugly  many  a face  which  might  other- 
wise be  pleasing. 

“A  short  detention  at  the  wharf  while  the  boat 
was  got  in  readiness,  afforded  us  a fine  opportu- 
nity for  contemplating  the  scene.  We  sat  down 
under  an  immense  banyan  tree,  supported  by 
more  than  a hundred  trunks,  all,  however, 
uniting  to  form  one.  These  trunks,  instead  of 
being  at  some  distance  from  each  other,  formed  a 


VARIOUS  EMPLOYMENTS. 


87 


mass,  more  or  less  compact,  in  the  centre  of  the 
spreading  foliage  -which  they  bore.  Large  num- 
bers of  natives  -were  scattered  about ; some  pass- 
ing fruits  into  the  boats  near  by,  some  bathing, 
some  selling  cooked  rice,  some  digging  holes  for 
a fence  -with  sharp  bamboo  sticks,  some  making 
ropes,  some  begging,  some  idly  looking  on.  We 
reached  the  vessel  just  before  dark,  glad  to  es- 
cape from  the  heat  and  confusion  on  land,  yet 
charmed  -with  our  first  walk  on  a tropical  shore. 

“My  experience  in  Java,  however,  is  not  yet  all 
recounted.  During  the  entire  evening  the  sound 
of  music  was  borne  to  our  ears  by  the  land- 
breeze,  accompanied  by  other  noises  of  revelry. 
On  making  inquiry  we  were  informed  by  some 
of  the  natives  who  yet  remained  on  board,  that 
the  inhabitants  were  engaged  in  a dance,  which 
would  be  kept  up  till  after  midnight.  The  cap- 
tain resolved  to  go  on  shore  to  see  the  sight,  and 
I concluded  to  accompany  him. 

“ The  market-place  w’as  now  the  ball-room, 
lighted  by  a number  of  lamps  of  primitive  con- 
struction. There  were  three  separate  companies 
of  musicians  and  dancers.  The  musicians  in 
each  case  occupied  the  elevated  platform  on  which 


88 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


the  various  wares  had  been  displayed  during  the 
day,  while  the  dancers  performed  on  the  ground 
in  front.  Each  ‘ band  ’ has  four  instruments ; 
one  a long  drum,  which  was  struck  with  the 
hands,  and  resembled  in  sound  the  same  instru- 
ment at  home ; another  a huge  gong ; the  third  a 
two-stringed  fiddle  ; and  the  fourth  a nondescript 
article,  which  looked  as  much  like  three  iron  pots, 
standing  side  by  side,  with  covers  of  like  mate- 
rial, as  anything  else.  These  covers  were  beaten 
with  two  drum-sticks. 

“ Three  dancing  girls  stood  in  front,  ready  for 
any  partners  who  might  offer ; nor  were  they 
ever  compelled  to  wait  long.  A man  would 
emerge  from  the  surrounding  gloom,  with  a cloth 
thrown  over  his  head  and  hanging  down  over 
his  shoulders,  take  his  place  in  front,  and  com- 
mence the  performance.  Both  sexes  were  half 
naked,  and  the  little  clothing  they  had  on  was 
singularly  arranged.  Both  musicians  and  dan- 
cers accompanied  the  instruments  with  the  most 
horrible  perversions  of  the  human  voice  to  which 
I ever  listened.  Strange  to  say,  though  the  cap- 
tain and  myself  were  the  only  whites  amid  this 
mass  of  half  savage  Malays,  nothing  disrespectful 


NOTHING  WANTING  BUT  THE  GOSPEL,  89 


to  US  was  said  or  done.  I can  remember,  but 
not  describe,  my  sensations,  as  I stood  near  the 
dancers,  now  gazing  on  their  half-frenzied  move- 
ments, now  on  the  swarthy  faces  and  forms  of 
the  natives  who  pressed  against  me  in  the  crowd, 
and  now  out  into  the  gloomy  shadows  of  the 
surrounding  trees. 

“We  were  rowed  to  the  ship  by  natives  in  a 
native  boat,  reaching  it  at  one  o’clock,  A.  M. 
Wearied  with  my  walks,  and  worn  out  by  the 
heat,  I threw  myself  on  the  bed  and  slept 
soundly  till  morning. 

“ July  22.  Weighed  anchor  about  ten  o’clock, 
and  with  a hardly  perceptible  breeze,  stood  away 
from  Anjier.  I almost  experienced  a feeling  of 
regret  as  the  beautiful  landscape  faded  from  my 
sight.  Nothing  is  wanting  but  the  gospel  to 
transform  Java  into  an  earthly  Eden.  I no 
longer  wonder  that  the  early  navigators  among 
the  South  Sea  Islands  found  it  difficult  to  keep 
their  crews  from  abandoning  the  ship.  The  life 
which  a European  might  lead  among  these  primi- 
tive people  just  suits  the  natural  heart.  The 
means  of  subsistence  can  be  procured  with  little 


90 


FIVE  TEARS  IN  CHINA. 


trouble,  and  the  face  of  nature  ever  wears  a 
smile. 

“July  28.  Much  interested  yesterday  and  to- 
day in  reading  Neander’s  ‘ Sketches  from  the 
History  of  Missions  in  the  Middle  Ages.’  Truly, 
although  these  are  justly  denominated  the  ‘dark 
ages,’  many  individuals  in  the  church  were  burn- 
ing and  shining  lights.  Some  seem  to  have  been 
both  superstitious  and  pious  ; in  bondage  to  an 
ascetic  spirit,  and  yet  free  in  Christ  Jesus.  I 
find  much  in  the  character  of  these  holy  men,  and 
indeed  much  in  their  conduct,  well  worthy  of 
imitation ; particularly  their  readiness  to  suffer 
for  Christ,  their  strong  and  simple  faith,  and 
their  perseverance  in  the  midst  of  discourage- 
ments.’ 


ARRIVES  AT  HONG  KONG. 


91 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Arrives  at  Hong  Kong — Voyage  up  the  Coast — Typhoon — At 
Shanghai — The  City  anti  Suburbs — In  the  hands  of  Rebels — 
Begins  Missionary  work — Studies  and  Obstacles. 

On  the  5th  of  August,  1854,  the  missionaries 
reaclictl  Ilong  Kong.  Of  their  brief  stay  among 
hospitable  brethren  in  that  city  and  their  sub- 
sequent perilous  voyage  up  the  coast,  Mr.  Aitch- 
ison  speaks  very  freely  in  the  following  extract 
from  a letter  written  one  week  after  reaching 
Shanghai. 

[To  C.  P.  B.] 

“ Shanghai,  September  7,  1854. 

* * * * “ Arrivinor  at  Hong  Kong,  we  were 
most  cordially  received  by  Rev.  Mr.  Johnson  of 
the  American  Baptist  Board,  and  by  Rev.  Dr. 
Legge  and  Rev.  Mr.  Chalmers  of  the  London 
Missionary  Society.  At  the  house  of  the  latter 
brethren  we  spent  a fortnight  very  pleasantly. 
Such  was  the  troubled  state  of  Canton,  (now  be- 


92 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


sieged  by  the  rebels,)  that  we  did  not  deem  it 
advisable  to  visit  that  city.  You  cannot  imagine 
how  strangely  everything  strikes  one  on  his  first 
arrival  in  such  a country  as  China.  One  can 
hardly  feel  that  he  is  the  same  being  who  not 
long  before  was  in  such  different  circumstances. 

“ Ilong  Kong  is  a barren,  hilly  spot,  without 
shrubs  or  trees,  except  those  planted  by  the  hand 
of  man.  Victoria,  the  British  settlement,  con- 
tains a population  of  more  than  thirty  thousand. 
It  is  not  regarded  as  a promising  missionary 
station,  because  it  is  the  resort  of  the  lowest  class 
of  the  natives. 

“ On  Saturday  morning,  August  19th,  we  sailed 
from  Ilong  Kong  for  Shanghai,  in  the  ship  ’■James 
Booth.'  Being  compelled  the  first  night  to  cast 
anchor  among  some  small  islands,  we  loaded  our 
two  cannon  and  our  muskets,  and  kept  a double 
watch  till  morning.  These  warlike  preparations 
were  demanded  by  the  great  numbers  of  pirates 
at  present  infesting  these  China  watei’S. 

“When  just  emerging  from  the  Formosa  Straits, 
we  encountered  a Typhoon,  which  lasted  just  two 
days,  and  came  very  near  wrecking  us.  We 
knew  that  we  must  be  near  land,  and  feared  every 


Chinese  Junk. 
Five  Years  in  China. 


SHANGHAI. 


93 


hour,  especially  in  the  darkness,  that  we  should 
find  ourselves  close  on  a lee  shore.  The  sublim- 
ity of  such  a storm  on  the  ocean  surpasses  all 
that  a landsman  can  conceive.  The  wind  blows 
with  a fury  which  seems  at  times  absolutely  irre- 
sistible. And  then  such  a sea!  Our  fore-yards 
dipped  into  the  crests  of  the  billows ! The 
largest  vessel,  noble  an  object  as  she  is,  seems 
like  a poor,  helpless  thing  in  such  circumstances. 
God  was  with  us  however,  as  a protector  and 
preserver.  We  escaped  without  suffering  any 
damage,  except  a few  bruised  limbs  of  sailors 
who  were  thrown  over  the  wheel. 

“We  set  foot  in  Shanghai  on  the  afternoon  of 
September  1st,  and  received  a cordial,  Christian 
welcome  from  Rev.  Dr.  Bridgman  and  wife,  and 
from  the  whole  missionary  company.  It  was  a 
real  pleasure  to  lie  down  at  night,  secure  from 
all  the  dangers  of  the  deep,  without  a thought  as 
to  how  the  wind  blows  or  the  sky  looks.  I trust 
some  proper  feelings  of  gratitude  to  God  filled 
my  heart,  when  I thought  of  the  long  way  in 
which  I had  been  kindly  led,  and  the  many  dan- 
gers from  which  I had  been  delivered.” 

Shanghai  is  a city  of  nearly  150,000  inhabi- 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


yi 

tants,  perhaps  200,000  with  the  suburbs.  It  is 
tlie  most  northerly  and  most  important  of  the 
five  ports  which  were  opened  to  foreigners  by  the 
treaty  of  1842.  It  is  in  the  latitude  of  Southern 
Georgia,  in  this  country,  although  of  a much 
colder  climate.  It  is  surrounded  by  a vast  and  fer- 
tile plain,  rich  in  products  such  as  rice, wheat, barley, 
cotton,  and  teeming  with  a busy  population.  Its 
harbor  sometimes  contains  three  thousand  ves- 
sels and  junks,  all  swarming  rvith  human  beings, 
a city  afloat,  Avhile  its  communications  and  trade 
by  water  alone  extend  to  one  third  part  of  the 
Avhole  empire.  There  w'as  in  this  city  a number 
of  missionaries  of  other  denominations  ; and  Rev. 
Mr.  Bridgman,  who  was  the  first  missionary  of 
the  American  Board  to  China,  having  gone  out 
in  1830,  and  who  had  been  stationed  at  Canton, 
had  been  residing  in  Shangbai  for  several  years, 
and  in  connection  with  a committee  of  the  several 
missions,  was  engaged  in  revising  and  perfecting 
the  translation  of  the  Holy  Scriptures  ; but  as 
yet  the  American  Board  had  no  established  mis- 
sion in  this  important  city.  Mr.  Aitchison  and 
Mr.  Blodget  were  to  begin  one.  But  first,  Mr. 
Aitchison  makes  his  safe  arrival  the  occasion  of 


THE  CITY  IN  THE  HANDS  OF  THE  REBELS.  ^'O 


a solemn  thanksgiving  to  God  for  all  his  mercies 
in  the  past,  for  protection  and  comfort  in  the 
long  and  perilous  voyage  ; and  then  still  more 
solemnly  consecrates  himself  anew  to  the  service 
of  his  Divine  Master,  and  especially  to  all  the 
toils  and  trials  of  his  contemplated  missionary 
life,  praying  fervently  for  divine  guidance  and 
help  in  his  holy  calling. 

The  city,  on  the  arrival  of  the  missionaries, 
was  in  the  hands  of  a band  of  local  banditti,  a 
part  of  the  great  rebellion,  who  held  it  in  the 
face  of  thousands  of  imperial  troops  for  about  a 
year  and  a half,  with  no  little  annoyance,  incon- 
venience, and  sometimes  danger,  to  the  foreign 
residents. 

It  is  here,  in  the  midst  of  this  confusion,  and 
these  troubles,  that  Mr.  Aitchison  begins  his  mis- 
sionary life.  We  have  seen  how  God  led  him  by 
that  mysterious  way  which  his  own  thoughts  could 
never  have  marked  out,  to  make  him  a “ chosen 
vessel”  unto  himself;  and  we  shall  now  see  the 
sanctified  fruit  of  that  baptism  of  soi’row  which 
his  soul  had  received. 

The  following  is  from  the  letter  of  Sept.  7tb, 
to  which  we  have  before  referred : — 


96 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


“ The  city  is  still  in  the  hands  of  the  insur- 
gents, and  is  likely  to  be  till  dooms-day  for  aught 
the  Imperialists  can  do.  The  war  as  it  is  carried 
on  here  is  mainly  a farce.  Skirmishing  goes  on 
at  any  hour  of  the  day  or  night ; and  indeed  there 
is  hardly  an  hour  in  which  you  do  not  hear  the 
booming  of  cannon.  All  last  night 

' We  heard  the  distant  and  random  gun, 

Which  the  foe  were  sullenly  firing.’ 

Even  while  the  Imperial  troops  are  engaged  in 
bombarding  the  city,  the  residents  are  attending 
to  their  daily  business  about  as  usual. 

“ Of  course  such  a state  of  things  is  unfavor- 
able to  the  successful  prosecution  of  missionary 
labors,  so  far  as  the  city  is  concerned.  But  hun- 
dreds of  thousands  in  the  country  around  are 
accessible.  I wish  you  could  have  accompanied 
me  last  Sunday  in  the  distribution  of  tracts. 
Everywhere  we  were  kindly  received.  Our  books 
were  eagerly  sought  for  ; and  a new  comer  would 
suppose  that  the  people  were  hungering  for  the 
bread  of  life.  There  appeared  to  be  a wonder- 
ful readiness  on  the  part  of  the  people  to  receive 
the  truth.  But  alas  ! the  experience  of  the  mis- 


STUDYING  THE  LANGUAGE. 


97 


sionaries  proves  that  such  appearances  are  deceit- 
ful. Of  the  thousands  of  books  and  tracts  dis- 
tributed, few  have  ever  been  heard  from.” 

On  the  very  day  after  his  arrival  in  Shanghai, 
with  the  aid  of  a native  teacher,  Mr.  Aitchison 
entered  upon  the  more  exact  and  systematic 
study  of  the  Chinese  language.  With  the  three 
hours  a day  so  scrupulously  devoted  to  this  study 
during  a large  portion  of  the  voyage  he  had 
already  made  an  ample  beginning;  but  now,  by 
the  help  of  the  living  teacher,  and  frequent  in- 
tercourse with  the  people,  he  is  enabled  to  make 
more  rapid  progress  ; so  that  he  commenced 
preaching  in  that  most  difficult  of  all  languages, 
in  just  one  year  from  the  day  of  taking  that  first 
oral  lesson.  We  shall  see  in  the  end  what  dis- 
tinguished attainments  he  made  in  five  years. 
At  the  very  commencement  of  his  coui-se  also, 
he  thus  indicated  his  choice  amid  the  many 
departments  of  missionary  labor,  and  his  conse- 
quent line  of  study. 

“ My  present  plan  of  procedure  is  to  make 
myself  familiar  with  the  spoken  language  of  the 
Chinese,  and  to  present  the  offer  of  salvation 
through  Christ  to  as  many  individuals  as  possible. 

9 


98 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


I design  to  spend  my  life  in  ‘preaching ; leaving 
teaching,  except  in  the  gospel  sense,  to  others. 
To  carry  out  my  plan  with  any  degree  of  success 
requires,  of  course,  an  accurate  knowledge  of  the 
medium  of  oral  communication.  To  the  acqui- 
sition of  the  language,  therefore,  I must  devote 
all  ray  energies  for  some  time  to  come.” 

In  his  journal  of  Sept.  2d  he  thus  desci’ibes 
his  first  lesson : 

“ This  forenoon  we  took  our  first  lesson  in  Chi- 
nese. We  were  left  alone  in  a room  with  a 
teacher,  whom  Dr.  Bridgman  had  engaged  for 
us.  The  commencement  of  my  studies  was  suffi- 
ciently awkward  and  embarrassing  to  all  parties. 
We  could  only  point  to  various  objects  around  us 
and  look  the  question,  ‘ What  is  that  called  ? ’ 
We  are,  however,  encouraged  by  our  friends  to 
hope  that  in  a single  year  we  may  be  able  to  con- 
verse quite  fluently  on  common  topics.” 

In  a letter  of  Sept.  14th,  Mr.  Aitchison  says  : 

“ Our  chief  attention  for  the  present  is  given 
to  the  Shanghai  colloquial.  The  Mandarin,  or 
Court  dialect,  or  more  properly  the  general  lan- 
guage of  the  country,  is  a separate  affair  alto- 
gether.” 


missionaries’  houses  exposed. 


99 


The  journal  of  Sept.  2d  thus  portrays  the  hap- 
less condition  of  the  beleaguered  town  : 

“ In  the  afternoon  we  went  into  the  city 
proper,  partly  to  see  the  ground  belonging  to  our 
mission,  partly  to  smuggle  out  some  clothes  be- 
longing to  our  teacher,  and  partly  to  see  the  nov- 
elties of  the  place.  While  passing  through  one 
of  the  streets,  we  met  a small  company  of  mounted 
rebel  troops.  They  were  a sorry-looking  set, 
only  half  armed,  and  some  of  them  little  more 
than  half  dressed.  Just  outside  the  walls,  ruins 
frowned  upon  us  everywhere,  the  dire  effects  of 
former  conflicts.  Within  the  gates,  w’hich  are 
carefully  guarded,  we  were  everywhere  treated 
with  the  greatest  respect,  the  very  children  sa- 
luting us  with  the  honorary  title,  ‘ sien  sang,' 
(teacher.)  The  Imperialists  are  encamped  on  all 
sides  of  the  city,  but  thus  far  all  their  efforts  to 
get  possession  of  it  have  failed. 

“ Sept.  3,  Sabbath.  The  Lord’s  Supper  was 
administered  to-day  in  the  London  mission 
chapel.  IIow  pleasant  to  have  the  privilege  of 
thus  celebrating  the  Saviour’s  love  on  the  first  Sab- 
bath after  our  arrival.  A sweet  peace  filled  my 
soul,  which  was  only  made  deeper  and  sweeter  by 


100 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


the  distant  booming  of  cannon,  which  came  from 
the  opposing  armies.  On  returning  to  the  house  we 
saw  from  the  verandah  the  halls  hounding  across 
the  water,  between  the  imperial  battery  and  the 
rebel  fortifications.  Some  of  the  missionaries 
here  have  had  their  houses  repeatedly  struck  by 
shot  during  the  last  year.  But  God  has  gra- 
ciously protected  them,  and  allowed  no  harm  to 
befall  them.  What  is  to  be  the  progress  and 
result  of  this  insurrection,  no  man  can  foresee. 
We  cannot  but  believe  that  God  will  bring  great 
good  to  his  people  and  kingdom  out  of  all  this 
apparent  evil. 

“ Sept.  10.  Enjoyed  the  presence  of  God  to 
some  extent  to-day.  At  nine  o’clock  I went  to 
the  Chinese  service,  conducted  by  our  Episcopal 
brethren,  and  heard  what  I presume  was  a faith- 
ful sermon.  Was  astonished  and  gratified  to  see 
so  large  an  audience — between  two  and  three 
hundred.  This  number  includes  two  or  three 
schools.  The  children  looked  neat,  clean  and 
happy.  After  service  my  teacher  came  to  my 
room,  and  read  to  me,  in  Chinese,  the  first  twelve 
verses  of  the  5th  chapter  of  Matthew.  Oh,  how  I 
longed  to  be  able  to  communicate  to  him  my  ideas 


DESIRES  teacher’s  SALVATION. 


101 


on  the  great  subject  of  salvation.  I could  only 
point  to  the  sixth  verse,  and  by  signs  intimate  to 
him  that  I hoped  he  would  take  the  matter  into 
serious  consideration.  He  has  been  employed  for 
a long  time  as  a teacher  in  missionary  families, 
and  is  well  acquainted  with  the  doctrines  of  Chris- 
tianity. I learn  that  he  is  a candidate  for  bap- 
tism. Oh,  that  the  Holy  Spirit  would  make  him 
a true  disciple,  and  employ  him  as  an  instrument 
in  enlightening  his  countrymen. 

“Spent  three  hours  or  more  in  distributing  books 
among  the  inhabitants  of  the  various  hamlets 
scattered  through  the  rice  fields  to  the  north  of 
the  city.  This  may  be  regarded  as  my  first  mis- 
sionary effort  in  China.  lYe  were  everywhere 
welcomed  and  treated  with  politeness.  Our  books 
were  almost  snatched  from  our  hands  by  the  peo- 
ple, so  eager  Avere  they  to  get  possession  of  them. 

“ Our  path  led  through  rice  and  cotton  fields 
interspersed  everywhere  with  graves  and  coffins. 
We  passed  a company  of  mourners,  making  lamen- 
tation at  a tomb,  all  dressed  in  Avhite,  which  is 
the  mourning  color.  Mr.  Cabaniss  accompanied 
us,  and  conversed  with  the  people.  Many  seemed 
to  be  acquainted  with  the  name  of  the  Saviour, 


102 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


“Ya-soo’ — Jesus.  Some  readily  confessed  their 

ignorance  in  reference  to  the  state  of  the  soul  after 
death.  All  listened  with  apparent  interest  to 
what  was  said,  but  some  question  directly  foreign 
to  the  subject  in  hand  would  betray  the  real  direc- 
tion of  their  thoughts.” 

In  a letter  of  Sept.  14th,  again  he  writes: — 
“ Shanghai  is  still  in  a very  unsettled  state. 
The  Imperial  troops  are  encamped  about  it,  and 
battles  are  affairs  of  constant  occurrence.  Yes- 
terday afternoon  we  went  to  call  upon  some  mis- 
sionary families  who  live  not  far  from  the  city 
wall,  and  near  the  camp  of  the  Imperialists. 
As  we  were  approaching  their  residence,  the 
thunder  of  artillery  and  the  sight  of  smoke  not 
far  distant  somewhat  startled  us.  \Ye  went 
on  however,  and  from  the  verandah  of  Brother 
Carpenter’s  house  we  had  a view  of  the  battle- 
field, less  than  a mile  distant.  The  Imperialists 
were  just  retreating  in  good  order  to  their  camp. 
We  saw  their  long  lines  fairly  fluttering  in  the 
breeze,  for  without  exaggeration  about  every 
tenth  man  carries  a banner.  The  rebels  were 
firing  at  them  from  the  walls.  There  had  been 
quite  a smart  engagement  in  the  forenoon,  and 


missionary’s  house  riddled.  103 

in  passing  across  the  fields  to  the  house  of  Bro- 
ther Cunnyngham,  we  saw  a man  lying  dead  hy 
the  road-side.  He  had  been  killed  hy  a stray 
ball  while  looking  on.  Coming  to  the  door  of 
Mr.  C’s.  house,  we  counted  in  it  six  marks  of 
balls  ; and  he  informed  us  that  the  house  had 
been  hit  more  than  forty  times  within  the  last 
year.  Proceeding  a little  fui’ther  to  the  house 
of  Brother  Yates,  we  found  it  riddled  with  balls  ; 
and  yet  there  he  resides  with  his  wife,  for  he  can- 
not find  another  place  where  to  lay  his  head. 

“You  will  be  ready  to  ask  if  the  missionaries 
do  not  feel  that  their  lives  are  in  danger.  The  most 
of  us  are  in  no  special  peril ; only  those  who  re- 
side near  the  wall  need  feel  anxiety.  The  rela- 
tions sustained  by  the  missionaries,  and  by  the 
foreign  community  in  general,  to  the  belligerents 
are  complicated  and  curious.  The  territory  oc- 
cupied by  foreigners  is  really  under  martial  law. 
The  ‘three  powers,’  English,  French  and  Ameri- 
can furnish  each  a regular  guard,  who  are  sta- 
tioned at  certain  points  to  prevent  any  armed 
Chinamen  from  setting  foot  on  their  territory. 
It  is  said  that  yesterday  the  two  armies,  while 


104 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


fighting,  encroached  somewhat  on  the  neutral 
ground,  when  a few  English  marines  fired  into 
them,  causing  their  immediate  flight,  one  part  to 
the  city,  and  the  other  to  their  camp. 

“ The  obstacles  to  the  success  of  missionary 
efforts  in  China  are  many  and  peculiar.  When 
we  survey  the  desolations  around  us,  and  then 
think  of  our  own  weakness,  we  should  assuredly 
fold  our  hands  in  utter  despair  did  we  not  re- 
member that  Christ  lives,  and  that  all  power  is 
given  to  him  in  heaven  and  on  earth.  This  great 
empire  is  surely  a part  of  that  world  which  is  to 
be  full  of  the  knowledge  of  the  Lord,  as  the 
waters  cover  the  sea.  Jesus  has  both  the  power 
and  the  disposition  to  secure  the  interests  and 
the  progress  of  his  own  kingdom.  It  does  not 
become  us  then  to  he  painfully  anxious  on  these 
points,  except  so  far  as  they  are  connected  with 
our  own  faithfulness.  Though  we  Avho  are  now 
in  the  field  may  labor  on  till  death,  uncheered  by 
a single  ray  of  success,  yet  we  believe  our  lives 
will  not  have  been  in  vain.  God  will  graciously 
accept  our  efforts ; yea,  he  will  make  them  con- 
ducive to  the  future  triumph  of  his  gospel  in  this 


OBSTACLES  TO  GOSPEL. 


105 


benighted  land.  And  we,  from  our  mansions  of 
rest  may  be  permitted  to  witness  the  progress  of 
the  chariot  of  salvation  along  the  path  which  we 
had  a hand  in  preparing.” 


106 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

The  number  of  the  peDple — No  Sabbath — Chinese  Funeral — Ex- 
cursion with  Rev.  Mr.  Edkins — Stopped  by  ofiScials  at  Su- 
chau — Sent  back  under  escort. 

Thus  the  young  missionary  entered  upon  his 
labors,  not  over-confident  in  himself,  but  looking 
to  the  right  source  for  help.  The  following  ex- 
tract from  his  first  letter  to  the  American  Board 
still  further  shows  how  formidable  the  work  ap- 
pears to  his  first  vision  of  it. 

“ One  thing  which  struck  me  forcibly  at  first, 
and  continues  to  be  a matter  of  daily  wonder,  is 
the  number  of  the  people.  They  congregate 
everywhere.  The  streets  are  thronged ; the 
houses  are  crowded ; the  boats  in  the  river  are 
overflowing.  You  can  find  no  retired  spot,  out 
of  your  own  house,  where  you  may  go  forth,  to 
walk,  like  Isaac,  and  ‘meditate  at  eventide.’ 
Take  what  direction  you  please,  and  penetrate  as 
far  as  you  will  into  the  country,  you  will  find 
thickly  inhabited  hamlets,  and  be  jostled  by  bus- 


DIFFICULTIES. 


107 


tling  passers-by.  Mr.  Poor,  when  in  America, 
truly  remarked  that  the  human  race  is  located  in 
the  east.  It  is  painful  to  mingle  daily  in  these 
crowds  of  perishing  men,  and  yet  be  speechless. 

“In  connection  with  this  point  come  thoughts 
of  the  magnitude  of  the  work  to  be  accomplished, 
and  the  inadequacy  of  the  means  now  employed. 
IIow  are  these  masses  to  be  reached  and  im- 
pressed ? IIow  can  their  deeply  rooted  pride 
and  prejudice  be  removed  ? What  is  to  loosen 
their  attachment  to  systems  of  error  long  since 
hoary  with  age  ? How  can  they  be  brought  to 
accept  a cross-bearing  religion,  taught  by  those 
whom  they  despise  ? And  how  is  all  this  to  be 
brought  to  pass  through  the  medium  of  the  most 
impracticable  language  spoken  by  man?  We 
might  despair,  were  we  compelled  to  rely  on  the 
number  or  the  wisdom  of  human  instrumentalities. 
But  with  God  all  things  are  possible.  He  is 
wonderful  in  counsel  and  excellent  in  working. 
Even  now  events  seem  to  be  looking  toward  a 
crisis,  which  may  herald  the  day  of  China’s  re- 
demption.” 

The  following  brief  observations  from  Mr.  A’s. 
journal  present  matters  of  interest. 


108 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


Oct.  7.  He  writes,  “ I am  in  great  danger  of 
losing  my  compassion  for  the  people  by  mingling 
with  them  without  the  power  of  labouring  for 
them.  The  sensibilities  become  blunted ; the 
mind  becomes  accustomed  to  the  contemplation 
of  ignorance  and  misery.  0 God  keep  my  heart 
tender  ! let  me  not  forget  that  every  individual 
of  these  multitudes  has  an  immortal  soul  to  be 
saved  or  lost.  Let  nothing  damp  my  ardor  or 
diminish  my  zeal. 

“ Oct.  8.  The  Sabbath.  There  is  no  Sabbath 
here.  Everything  among  the  Chinese  popula- 
tion goes  on  as  usual.  That  sacred  stillness  of  a 
New  England  Sabbath,  almost  forcing  the  soul  to 
pious  meditation,  is  wholly  wanting.  Trade, 
gambling  and  labor  are  engaged  in  as  on  ordinary 
days.  Oh,  when  will  China  rest  on  the  Lord’s 
day,  and  repair  to  the  sanctuary  to  worship  him 
in  the  beauty  of  holiness!  Hasten  thy  coming, 
0 Lord  1 

“ Dec.  24.  Saw  to-day  a long  procession  at  the 
funeral  rites  of  a man  of  wealth.  There  were 
boys  with  flags,  men  with  huge  gongs,  priests 
with  gay  robes,  musicians  and  mourners  dressed 
in  white,  all  wearing  an  air  of  exceeding  jollity, 


Chinese  Pagoda. 
Fire  Years  in  China. 


p.  no. 


EXCURSION  TOWARDS  THE  INTERIOR.  109 


perhaps  in  anticipation  of  the  good  things  which 
were  borne  on  the  shoulders  of  men,  such  as  a 
whole  hog  roasted,  a sheep  ditto,  and  several 
large  dishes  of  fruit  and  cakes.  Oh,  the  exceed- 
ing follj  of  idolatry  in  all  its  doctrines  and  prac- 
tices! The  ceremonies  connected  with  the  wor- 
ship of  the  gods  here  in  China  would  be  as 
amusing  as  a farce,  were  they  not  sinful  and  soul- 
destroying.  Talked  once  or  twice  to  a few  peo- 
ple. Would  that  my  tongue  were  loosed,  and 
then  touched  with  a live  coal  from  off  the  altar.” 
In  the  mouth  of  January,  in  company  with 
Rev.  Mr.  Edkins,  of  the  London  Missionary  So- 
ciety, Mr.  Aitchison  undertook  an  excursion 
“towards”  the  interior.  It  ivas  intended  as  a 
tour  of  observation,  with  efforts  to  do  good 
wherever  they  should  go.  They  started  on  the 
morning  of  the  16th  of  the  month,  and  at  night- 
fall Mr.  Aitchison  wrote : 

“ How  strange  to  be  here  ! Thirty-five  miles 
west  of  Shanghai,  in  the  Empire  of  China!  Who 
would  have  predicted  this  two  years  and  a half 
ago  ? Truly,  it  is  not  in  man  that  walketh  to 
direct  his  steps.  0 Lord,  here,  in  this  new  place, 
in  these  strange  circumstances,  I give  myself 
10 


110 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


anew  to  thee.  Make  me  an  instrument  of  good 
among  this  people,  and  fit  me  for  thy  will  and 
kingdom.”  , 

On  the  17th  they  visited  “Long  Water”  Pa- 
goda. “The  principal  priest,”  says  Mr.  Aitchi- 
son,  “ who  waited  upon  us,  was  a man  of  venera- 
ble aspect  and  considerable  urbanity.  When 
Mr.  E.  was  here  four  years  ago  he  was  confined 
in  a small  room  in  fulfillment  of  a vow,  which  for 
some  reason  had  been  made.  In  conversation  he 
advocated  the  refined  notions  of  the  sect  to  which 
he  belongs,  in  reference  to  the  nonexistence  of 
all  external  things,  going  even  beyond  Bishop 
Berkeley  in  the  process  of  ctherialization.  Strange 
that  a people  like  the  Chinese,  of  all  men  most 
practical,  should  have  a religion  of  all  on  earth 
most  metaphysical.  The  Budhist  speculations 
seem  to  annihilate  every  thing — nature,  the  soul, 
and  even  God  himself.” 

In  this  journey  the  missionaries  sailed  through 
a succession  of  lakes  and  rivers,  passing  a 
constant  series  of  large  towns  and  villages,  suf- 
fering not  a little  with  the  cold  by  day  and  by 
night,  the  boatmen  sometimes  breaking  the  ice 
in  the  streams,  as  they  pushed  their  boat  along. 


Canal  Scene  near  Su  Chau. 


I 


CHINESE  FISHING. 


Ill 


On  the  18th  Mr.  Aitchison  ■wrote, — “As  ■we  ad- 
vanced, I could  not  hut  take  notice  of  the  im- 
mense number  of  people  engaged  in  fishing,  and 
the  numberless  methods  they  employ  to  entrap 
their  finny  prey.  Sometimes  a man  with  one 
hand  is  able  to  manage  the  apparatus,  while  at 
others  a number  of  men  have  to  exert  all  their 
strength.  Many  of  the  fish  taken  and  carried  to 
market  are  exceedingly  small,  such  as  a home 
fisherman  would  not  think  it  worth  while  to  look 
at.  Great  numbers  of  wild  ducks  and  other  birds 
are  seen  everywhere,  and  they  manifest  but  little 
fear  of  men.” 

“ Jan.  19.  Soon  after  breakfast  we  came  to 
the  famous  Grrand  Canal,  which  is  an  enduring 
memorial  of  the  enterprise  and  energy  of  a for- 
mer age.” 

Thus  the  missionaries  passed  on  their  way, 
preaching  and  distributing  books  wherever  they 
went,  until  they  came  near  the  great  city  of  Su- 
chau.  Here,  as  Mr.  Aitchison  says,  their  “mis- 
fortunes began;”  and  of  these  the  journal  con- 
tains so  graphic  and  interesting  an  account,  that 
we  copy  it  entire. 

“ Going  on  shore  at  a village,  leaving  our  boat 


112 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


to  follow,  we  passed  on  to  the  other  side,  when, 
casting  our  eye  to  the  left,  we  saw  the  tri-cor- 
nered  flag  floating  at  the  top  of  a spear,  the  sure 
proof  of  a military  post.  Before  we  had  time  for 
a moment’s  reflection,  the  petty  officer  was  at  our 
side,  inviting  us,  in  a most  polite  manner,  to  a 
seat  in  the  building.  We  looked  anxiously  for 
our  boat,  but  it  was  not  in  sight,  and  we  could  do 
nothing  but  accept  the  invitation.  In  a few  mo- 
ments we  rose  to  go,  but  were,  in  the  same  ex- 
tremely polite  manner,  informed  that  the  higher 
officer  wished  to  see  us. 

“ By  this  time  numbers  of  soldiers,  petty  offi- 
cers, and  a great  crowd  of  people,  surrounded  us. 
We  saw  that  we  were  in  an  awkwai-d  predica- 
ment, so  we  quietly  resolved  to  make  the  best  of 
it.  Being  escorted  to  the  other  side,  we  were 
conducted  to  a temple,  where  we  were  introduced 
to  a mandarin  of  the  lower  grade,  his  rank  being 
indicated  by  a white  ball  on  his  cap.  He  in- 
quired where  we  were  from,  and  Avhither  we  were 
going.  We  told  him  from  Shanghai,  and  to 
Choong-loong  San,  and  that  our  present  object 
was  to  visit  the  pagoda,  in  the  mountains  near  by. 
lie  was  very  gracious ; answered  that  he  would 


IN  THE  HANDS  OF  OFFICIALS. 


113 


be  happy  to  render  us  assistance,  and  that  in  or- 
der to  do  this,  it  would  he  necessary  to  conduct 
us  to  Suchau,  where  we  might  obtain  leave  from 
his  superior.  After  that, he  himself  would  accom- 
pany us  on  our  pi’oposed  ramble. 

“This  proposal  to  take  us  to  Suchau  was  what 
we  most  dreaded,  but  there  was  of  course  no 
remedy.  Numbers  of  troops  were  now  gathered 
around  us ; some  of  them  with  long  spears,  and 
some  with  naked  swords  in  their  hands.  While 
our  mandarin  friend  was  getting  his  boat  ready, 
we  made  good  use  of  our  time  by  distributing  a 
great  number  of  books  among  the  soldiers  and 
the  crowd.  There  was  a tremendous  rush  for 
them,  insomuch  that  we  were  almost  afraid  to 
proceed,  lest  the  people,  in  their  eagerness,  should 
push  each  other  into  the  w'ater.  All  was,  however, 
soon  ready,  and  we  started,  the  mandarin  in  his 
boat,  and  we  in  ours,  attended  by  five  or  six  well 
armed  soldiers.  As  our  boat  was  a fast  sailer,  we 
soon  got  far  ahead  of  his,  and  took  the  opportunity 
to  have  a fine  walk  on  shore,  in  the  suburbs  of  the 
far-famed  city. 

“ One  thing  which  struck  me  here  was  the  dis- 
play of  earthen  ware,  particularly  the  huge  jars 
10  » 


114 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


SO  universally  used  throughout  China.  They 
were  stacked  up  in  all  imaginable  forms,  and  in 
heaps  of  all  dimensions.  On  entering  our  boat 
again  we  distributed  a large  number  of  books. 

“ After  passing  great  numbers  of  huge  junks, 
such  as  are  employed  in  carrying  grain  to  Peking, 
we  reached  the  West  gate  of  Suchau,  and  land- 
ing, immediately  entered  within  the  walls.  lYe 
were  conducted  at  a rapid  pace  to  the  premises 
of  the  officer  in  command  of  the  militia,  a manda- 
rin wearing  a crystal  ball.  While  the  dignitaries 
were  holding  a short  consultation  together,  we 
were  the  centre  of  attraction  to  a large  crowd 
who  had  by  this  time  gathered  around  us.  In  a 
few  minutes  a messenger  summoned  us  to  the 
presence  of  the  crystal  ball,  when  we  underwent 
a sort  of  cross-examination,  Mr.  Edkins,  being 
of  course,  here,  and  throughout  the  narrative,  the 
only  speaker. 

“ The  result  of  these  interrogations  was  an 
expression  of  friendship  on  the  mandarin’s  part, 
and  a professed  willingness  to  favor  our  object, 
hut  it  did  not  lie  in  his  power  to  decide  in  the 
case.  Accordingly  we  were  to  be  sent  to  the 
chief  magistrate  of  the  city,  to  await  his  pleasure. 


Chinese  Noblemen  in  Consultation. 
Five  Y’ears  in  China, 


p.  114. 


I 

I 


BEFORE  THE  CHIEF  MAGISTRATE. 


115 


Thither  we  were  accordingly  carried  in  chairs 
provided  for  the  purpose,  and  as  our  route  lay 
through  one  or  two  of  the  crowded  thoroughfares, 
we  had  a fair  opportunity  to  see  the  shops  and 
the  people.  There  was  a great  display  of  fruits, 
including  large  fine-looking  apples.  Two  soldiers 
with  huge  swords  preceded,  and  two  followed 
our  chairs.  At  the  gate  of  the  Magistrate’s 
office,  a great  rabble  awaited  our  arrival,  many 
of  whom  followed  us  within. 

“ Here,  in  an  anteroom,  which  was  low,  dark 
and  dirty,  we  awaited  the  decision  of  the  func- 
tionary. It  soon  came,  and  with  it  the  disappoint- 
ment of  our  hopes  respecting  a sight  of  Choong- 
Loong-San.  We  were  to  be  conducted  back  to 
Shanghai  immediately.  Mr.  E.  argued  the  case 
at  considerable  length  with  the  bearer  of  the  de- 
cree, but  argument  was  vain.  We  returned  to 
the  military  oflBce  as  we  came,  the  streets  being 
now  lined  on  both  sides  by  people  eager  to  have 
a good  look  at  the  foreign  barbarians.  It  was 
almost  dark  when  we  arrived,  and  after  a few 
minutes’  detention  we  were  escorted  to  our  boats 
through  some  bye-ways,  first  declining  an  urgent 
invitation  to  remain  for  dinner.  Meanwhile  our 


IIG 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


boats  bad  been  brought  within  the  walls,  so  that 
we  had  the  privilege  of  passing  the  night  in 
Suchau.  A present  of  eatables  accompanied 
us,  consisting  of  mutton,  and  a sort  of  meat  pies, 
in  common  use  among  the  Chinese. 

“ Jan.  20.  This  morning  we  rose  early  and 
took  a walk  for  a quarter  of  a mile  or  more  on 
the  city  wall.  It  was  in  good  repair.  At  short 
intervals  there  were  piles  of  rough  stones,  ready 
to  be  cast  down  on  the  heads  of  any  enemies  who 
might  attempt  to  scale  it.  By  the  time  we  had 
reached  our  boat,  one  of  the  guard  appointed  to 
watch  us  was  awake,  and,  attended  by  him,  we 
strolled  to  a considerable  distance  along  one  of 
the  streets.  Numbers  of  persons  followed  us, 
though  there  was  little  disturbance.  Scarcely 
was  our  breakfast  finished  when  we  were  sum- 
moned to  the  military  office.  We  went,  and  there 
we  spent  the  entire  day,  uncertain  whether  to 
consider  ourselves  as  guests  or  prisoners.  The 
Mandarin  himself  spent  most  of  the  day  in  our 
company,  and  was  very  courteous.  ^Ve  begged 
the  privilege  of  visiting  some  of  the  celebrated 
localities  of  the  city,  a request  which  he  steadily 
but  politely  refused,  alleging  as  a reason  the  fear 


MOKE  PRISOXERS  THAN  GUESTS. 


117 


of  disturbance  from  a crowd  of  people,  particu- 
larly in  these  troublous  times. 

“We  roamed  at  will  through  the  gardens  and 
apartments  of  his  establishment,  finding  much  to 
interest  and  amuse  us.  In  the  gardens  were 
artificial  ponds,  and  mountains  of  rock,  vines, 
dwarf  trees,  all  of  the  most  fantastic  forms.  A 
number  of  birds  in  cages  discoursed  sweet  music, 
and  curious  summer-houses  were  reached  by  zig- 
zag bridges.  Within  the  house  there  were  many 
apartments  connected  by  labyrinthine  passages, 
and  entered  by  curiously  shaped  apertures.  Doors 
there  were  none,  but  simple  screens  or  curtains 
separated  one  room  from  another.  The  walls 
were  adorned  with  innumerable  pictures,  and 
scrolls  covered  with  the  written  character.  The 
tables  groaned  under  flower -pots,  curiously 
wrought  vases,  books  containing  pictures,  and 
other  nondescript  articles  of  native  manufacture. 
At  least  eight  or  nine  clocks  were  scattered  about, 
all  of  foreign  make,  and  some  highly  ornamented. 

“ One  thing  on  which  the  proprietor  evidently 
set  high  value  was  a lithographic  print  of  a female 
head  and  bust,  such  as  adorn  the  windows  of  so 
many  shops  in  America.  There  were  numerous 


118 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


small  tables  for  writing  or  tea-drinking.  He 
asked  many  questions  about  foreign  affairs,  and 
while  Mr.  E.  was  answering  them,  I at  bis  re- 
quest tried  my  band  at  drawing  something  for 
him.  I made  something  in  the  shape  of  a rose- 
bush, a waterfall,  a bridge,  and  a man-of-war,  all 
of  which  he  pronounced  excellent,  meanAvhile  Mr. 
E.  was  turning  a verse  of  poetry  into  Chinese, 
and  the  success  of  his  effort  elicited  high  enco- 
miums from  all  present. 

“ Numbers  of  pei-sons  during  all  this  time  were 
coming  in  to  see  us,  all  of  whom  were  from  the 
first  classes  of  Chinese  society.  We  saw  the  bow- 
ings and  scrapings  attending  an  introduction,  and 
the  way  in  which  superiors  and  inferiors  treat 
each  other.  Tea  was  served  two  or  three  times, 
accompanied  by  some  foreign  biscuit,  stamped 
‘ Ilaylock’s  Arrowroot.’  Twice  we  were  regaled 
with  warm  milk,  which  was  a real  treat.  As  the 
evening  drew  on  we  grew  impatient,  and  our  host 
was  prevailed  upon  to  let  us  depart  without  wait- 
ing for  the  next  morning.  We  told  him  that  the 
next  day  being  our  day  of  worship,  we  should  be 
unwilling  to  set  out.  A dinner  was  provided, 
consisting  of  pheasants,  mutton,  eggs,  and  a roast 


CHINESE  ENTERTAINMENTS. 


119 


of  which  the  material  was  unknown.  We  man- 
aged the  chopsticks  to  the  best  of  our  ability,  but 
still  our  efforts  to  get  the  tempting  morsels  into 
our  mouths  drew  good-natured  smiles  and  jokes 
from  the  bystanders.  Some  seemed  disposed  to 
show  us  how  the  thing  was  done  by  actual  experi- 
ment, but  we  would  not  give  them  the  opportu- 
nity. 

“ Next  followed  an  entertainment  of  a different 
nature.  A ring  was  formed,  and  several  of  the 
soldiers  exhibited  their  strength  and  skill  in  the 
use  of  their  weapons.  The  first  who  performed, 
wielded  a savage-looking  instrument,  half  spear, 
half  scythe,  which  he  held  in  both  hands.  The 
next  went  through  a sword  exercise;  and  the 
third  had  a sort  of  chain  about  three  feet  long, 
having  a handle  at  the  end.  All  intended  to 
show  their  manner  of  dealing  with  an  enemy  in 
close  combat.  They  accordingly  advanced  and 
retreated,  flourishing  their  weapons  in  all  imagi- 
nable ways,  now  thrusting,  now  hewing,  now 
striking,  then  cleaving.  They  moved  with  great 
agility,  and  seemed  to  be  masters,  each  of  his 
weapon.  There  they  might  have  passed  for  what 
they  fancied  themselves,  brave  and  formidable 


120 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


men,  but  recent  history  proves  them  to  be,  in 
general,  cruel  and  cowardly. 

“ At  the  moment  of  our  departure  our  host 
offered  us  two  dollars(!)  to  pay  our  expenses  to 
Shanghai.  Of  course  we  refused  to  take  the 
money,  and  he  had  the  good  sense  not  to  pi'ess  it 
upon  us.  In  a few  minutes  we  had  bidden  good- 
bye, to  high  and  low ; and,  attended  by  our  escort, 
consisting  of  a small  Mandarin  and  two  or  three 
followers,  in  a boat  of  their  own,  we  had  issued 
from  the  south  gate.  We  breathed  more  freely 
as  we  turned  our  prow  homeward,  delivered  as 
we  were  from  the  officious  kindness  of  our  pre- 
tended friends.  The  sun  was  near  the  horizon 
when  we  started,  but  it  was  ten  o’clock  before  we 
had  escaped  from  the  throng  of  boats  which  filled 
the  canals  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  city.  We 
cast  anchor  for  the  night  under  the  wall,  having 
sailed  along  its  whole  length  in  two  directions.” 

On  the  24th  of  January,  after  an  absence  of 
eight  days,  the  missionaries  again  reached 
Shanghai,  having  visited  many  important  towns, 
and  “ distributed,  in  all,  three  thousand  volumes 
and  tracts,  including  portions  of  the  Bible.” 


A SCENE  OF  HORRORS 


121 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Recapture  of  the  City — Horrible  Scenes — Missionaries’  house! 
riddled — Churches  unharmed — Difficulties  of  the  language — • 
Heathenism — A now  home. 

The  recapture  of  the  city  of  Shanghai  by  the 
Imperialists,  after  it  had  been  eighteen  months  in 
the  hands  of  the  rebels,  occurred  on  the  17th  of 
February,  1855  ; that  being  the  first  day  of  the 
Chinese  year.  On  the  Monday  following,  (19th) 
Mr.  Aitchison  entered  the  gate  to  view  the  deso- 
lation. “ Such  a scene  of  horrors,”  he  said,  in 
a letter  to  the  Board,  “ I never  before  witnessed. 
One  half  of  the  city  was  in  ruins,  including  all 
the  finest  business  streets.  Here  and  there  the 
corpse  of  an  insurgent  was  lying  disembowelled 
in  the  street,  or  charred  amid  the  smoking  ruins. 
The  city  wall  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  six  gates 
was  grim  with  blood-besmeared  heads  elevated  on 
bamboo  poles.  Troops  were  dispersed  in  all 
directions,  searching  every  nook  and  corner  for 
11 


122 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


fresh  victims,  and  taking  possession  of  every- 
thing that  pleased  their  fancy. 

“ Some  poor  wretches  were  discovered  hiding 
in  coffins  and  in  the  bottom  of  wells.  Happy 
was  he  who  perished  in  the  conflict  on  the  first 
night,  for  he  escaped  the  ingenious  torture  to 
which  others  were  exposed.  At  the  lowest  esti- 
mate six  hundred  persons  have  been  beheaded 
here  in  the  past  week.  Many  of  them  doubtless 
pay  the  just  forfeit  of  their  crimes,  whilst  some, 
it  is  to  be  presumed,  are  wholly  innocent. 

“ The  fall  of  the  city  is  the  result,  not  of 
Chinese  bravery,  but  of  French  interference. 
The  Triads  would  have  laughed  at  their  imperial 
opponents,  had  the  latter  been  unsupported  by 
foreign  allies.  Two  or  three  months  since  some 
difficulty  arose  between  a few  French  marines 
and  a detachment  of  rebels.  The  latter  fired  on 
the  former,  wounding  one  man.  After  some  un- 
successful attempts  at  negotiations,  the  French 
Admiral  brought  his  war  steamer  and  frigate 
into  position  and  bombarded  the  city  three  sepa- 
rate times.  Once  he  breached  the  wall  and  at- 
tempted to  enter,  but  was  repulsed  with  the  loss 
of  about  twelve  men,  including  the  first  oflicer  of 


missionaries’  houses  riddled. 


123 


the  frigate.  He  next  took  efficient  measures  to 
cut  off  all  supplies,  and  the  result  has  been  nar- 
rated above.  Such  interference  on  his  part  is 
generally  and  loudly  condemned.  It  is  hinted 
that  the  Romish  Missionaries  are  at  the  bottom 
of  it,  but  of  this  no  one  can  be  certain. 

“ It  is  remarkable  that  the  missionaries  have 
suffered  so  little  amid  all  these  troubles.  Though 
frequently  exposed  to  danger,  no  one  of  them  has 
been  injured.  Some  of  their  houses  are,  indeed, 
so  riddled  with  shot,  that  they  are  not  worth  re- 
pairing, and  many  are  forced  to  leave  their  dwell- 
ings; but  the  governor  of  the  province  gave  them 
eighteen  thousand  dollars,  the  estimated  value  of 
their  property,  and  now  several  think  of  return- 
ing at  once  to  their  places,  either  within  or  near 
the  city  wall.  The  churches  and  chapels  also, 
in  the  city,  belonging  to  the  various  missions,  have 
all  been  preserved,  and  preaching  will  be  resumed 
in  most  of  them  immediately. 

“ Oh,  that  this  may  be  the  beginning  of  a new 
order  of  things,  spiritual  as  well  as  political,  in 
Shanghai ! There  are  about  seventy  missionaries 
assembled  at  this  point.  Surely  we  may  hope 
for  good  things  in  the  time  to  come.” 


124 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


The  following  extracts  from  free  and  friendly 
letters  contain  touching  allusions  to  scenes  of  the 
past,  with  some  passages  of  rare  interest  in  re- 
spect to  the  work  then  in  hand  : 

[To  L.  R.  A.] 

“Shanghai,  Feh.  1,  1855. 

“ My  Dear  L ; — It  is  nearly  half  past  nine 
o’clock.  Bro.  B.  and  myself  have  just  united  in 
our  customary  evening  worship ; but  before  re- 
tiring I am  disposed  to  have  a little  chat  with 
you.  Your  letter  I found  waiting  my  return  from 
a short  excursion  into,  or  rather  toxcards,  the  in- 
terior of  China.  * * * * You  wrote  in  the 

early  autumn  ; I reply  amid  the  snows  of  Febru- 
ary ; and  you  will  read  this  with  the  birds  and 
flowers  of  summer  around  you.  What  a com- 
mentary on  the  flight  of  time  ! 

“ The  weather  has  been  quite  Xew  England- 
like,  except  that  very  little  snow  falls.  These 
north-westers  are  fresh  from  the  icy  plains  of 
Tartary,  and  have  a habit  of  searching  one’s 
house  and  person  that  is  by  no  means  agreeable. 
It  is  a matter  of  rejoicing  to  us  that  we  have  this 
cold  bracing  winter  to  prepare  us  for  the  oppress- 


STUDYING  THE  LANGUAGE. 


125 


ive  summer.  We  have  hardly  had  five  rainy 
days  during  these  last  five  months,  and  yet  the 
natural  dampness  of  the  soil  is  such  that  the 
ground  is  still  quite  moist. 

“We  hold  on  the  even  tenor  of  our  way,  giving 
all  our  strength  to  the  work  of  acquiring  the  lan- 
guage. Study  is  in  general  pleasant,  though  I 
occasionally  get  discouraged  in  view  of  my  slow 
progress.  After  mastering  the  colloquial,  we 
have  still  the  Mandarin  and  the  hook  language, 
with  which  to  recreate  ourselves.  The  time  from 
nine  to  twelve,  and  from  three  to  five,  each  day, 
is  spent  with  my  teacher. 

“I  have  not  yet  attempted  much  in  the  way  of 
direct  effort  for  the  spiritual  welfare  of  the  peo- 
ple, on  account  of  my  inability  to  speak  fluently. 
But  I am  at  times  conscience-smitten  at  the 
thought  of  my  neglect ; for  with  such  motives  to 
labor,  it  seems  as  though  we  should  be  willing  to 
stammer  out  the  message. 

China  is  no  small  island  in  mid-ocean  whose 
few  inhabitants  are  destined  to  vanish  before  the 
face  of  an  advancing  civilization.  Here  are  con- 
gregated under  one  government  a third  of  the 
human  race,  with  laws  and  institutions,  arts  and 
11  * 


126 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


sciences,  which  date  back  almost  to  the  flood. 
The  Empire  in  some  shape  will  exist  for  ages  to 
come,  whatever  may  be  the  result  of  the  present 
revolution,  and  everv  blow  struck  for  Christ  will 
resound  through  coming  centuries  ; every  breath 
■>f  influence  for  good  will  be  felt  more  or  less 
i.rectly  by  millions  of  souls.  Ought  not  those 
whom  God  has  called  hither,  in  view  of  this  fact 
alone,  to  strain  every  nerve,  and  employ  every 
power  in  the  Master’s  service  ? 

[To  C.  P.  B.] 

Shanghai,  March  1,  1855. 

My  Very  Dear  Brother : — * * * * “No- 
thing of  much  importance  in  my  personal  history 
has  occurred  since  my  last  date.  Study  has  been 
the  order  of  the  day,  and  sometimes  of  the  night. 
One  makes  but  slow  progress  in  a language  like 
this.  All  his  previous  attainments  afford  but 
little  assistance  ; though  previous  discipline  of 
mind  is  of  course  an  important  auxiliary.  The 
tones  are  the  grand  difficulty.  Sometimes  ten  or 
more  different  ideas  are  represented  by  the  same 
letters  of  the  English  alphabet,  the  signification 
of  the  word  or  syllable  depending  wholly  on  a 


FEEBLE  HOLD  OF  IDOLATRY. 


127 


slight,  and  to  our  Western  ears,  hardly  percepti- 
ble modulation  of  the  voice. 

“ For  example,  the  two  letters  zz  (double  z,) 
when  pronounced  give  ihirty-Jive  separate  senses, 
which  the  tone  distinguishes.  A nice  ear  and  well 
formed  organs  of  speech  are  therefore  important 
to  a missionary  among  the  Chinese.  And  yet 
this  should  not  hinder  any  man  of  fair  or  even 
moderate  abilities  from  coming  here  to  labor. 
Blessed  be  God,  the  gospel  is  simple.  Its  funda- 
mental truths  are  easy  of  expression,  and  easy 
of  comprehension.  In  a very  short  time  a person 
may  acquire  enough  of  the  language  to  preach 
Christ  and  him  crucified ; and  it  is  surely  not  to 
be  regretted  that  the  subtleties  of  some  divines 
will  be  long  in  finding  their  way  into  the  theology 
of  the  future  Chinese  churches.  * * * * 

“ Idolatry  has  apparently  a very  feeble  hold 
on  the  afiections  or  intellect  of  the  masses  in  this 
land  ; but  it  is  pitiable  to  think  of  their  ignorance 
and  misery ; above  all  when  we  consider  their 
prospects  for  eternity — such  a stream  of  immor- 
tals flowing  down,  age  after  age,  to  the  gloomy 
gates  of  perdition.  Oh,  is  not  the  spectacle 
calculated  to  arouse  every  feeling  and  energy 


128 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


of  a Christian  soul ! How  little  is  the  church 
doing  to  stay  this  tide — to  roll  back  these  dark 
Avaves  of  death  ! 

“ Such  reflections  as  these  would  be  well  nigh 
maddening,  were  it  not  for  the  knoAvledge  of 
God’s  wisdom  and  love.  Ilis  plans  are  hastening 
to  their  accomplishment.  These  uttermost  parts 
of  the  earth  are  to  be  the  scenes  of  Chiust’s  most 
wonderful  triumphs  before  the  latter  day  glory  is 
fully  realized. 

“ Are  the  Ministers’  meetings  sustained  with 
as  much  interest  as  ever  ? Oh,  what  would  I give 
to  be  present  at  another ! Those  were  golden 
hours.  I often  fancy  I see  you  in  your  earnest 
discussions  and  friendly  communings.  The  mis- 
sionary’s trials  are  not  connected  with  food  and 
raiment  and  dwelling.  Oh,  no ! they  arise  in  great 
part  from  the  deprivation  of  Christian  fellowship, 
from  the  little  success  attending  his  labors,  and 
from  a contemplation  of  the  moral  desolations 
around  him.  Commend  me  affectionately  to  all 
the  brethren,  and  ask  their  prayers  on  my  be- 
half. 

“ Do  write  me  frequently,  letters  are  so  re- 
freshing in  this  land  of  darkness.  One  sees 


A NEW  HOME. 


129 


almost  nothing  here  which  is  pleasing.  In  fact, 
all  the  five  senses  are  constantly  offended;  and 
the  soul,  of  course,  suffers  in  sympathy  with 
them.  All  items  of  local  news  are  welcome. 
Tell  me  what  you  do  and  see,  where  you  go, 
what  you  are  planning,  and  the  like.  Please 
give  kind  remembrances  to  all  the  Greeneville 
friends.  Ever  faithfully  ^urs.” 

[To  L.  E.  A.] 

“Shanghai,  3farch  9,  1855. 

“ My  Dear  L : — I am  sitting  to-night  in  the 
new  house,  and  in  my  own  room.  It  is  a luxury 
to  have  an  apartment  all  to  one’s  self.  Please 
walk  into  my  sanctum  and  take  a seat.  You  see 
it  resembles  the  sitting-room  in  the  cottage,  be- 
ing  thirteen  feet  by  fourteen.  Just  at  the  left 
hand  as  you  enter  the  door  is  the  fire-place,  in 
front  of  which  stands  the  nice  stove  I brought 
with  me  from  New  T^ork.  On  the  mantel  shelf 
is  the  drawing  of  New  Haven  Green,  by  my  dar- 
ling Mary,  a silent  but  eloquent  companion  of 
my  Avaking  hours.  Next  comes  a neat  wash- 
stand  with  its  furniture  of  blue  China  Avare,  oc- 
cupying the  place  of  your  door  opening  into  the 


130 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


})ack  hall.  Passing  the  window  on  the  second 
side  we  come  to  my  study-table,  which  is  well 
loaded  with  aj)paratus  for  experimenting  in  the 
art  of  speech  making.  At  each  end  is  an  arm- 
chair with  fancy  legs  and  hack.  On  the  third 
side  stands  a book-case  Avell  stocked,  then  a 
smaller  one,  (the  gift  of  J.  Y.  L.  ; blessings  on 
him !)  then  a trunk.  Side  number  four  presents 
for  inspection  an  article  of  my  own  planning, 
Avhich  answers  for  a settee  by  day  and  a bed  by 
night,  (piite  a convenience  in  so  small  a room; 
then  a table  surmounted  by  a small  mirror  and 
well  covered  with  books  and  daguerreotypes. 
Before  the  stove  lies  a large  dog-skin  mat,  and  in 
the  centre  of  the  room  is  the  rocking-chair  so 
sacred  in  my  eyes.*  The  floor  is  covered  Avith 
some  Canton  straw  matting.  So  you  see  we  are 
not  destitute  of  comforts  in  China. 

“ Here  I shall  probably  be  located  for  at  least 
six  months  to  come.  Here  I shall  muse  many 
an  hour  over  bye-gone  years.  Here  I shall 
vainly  long  for  spiritual  communion  with  those 
Avho  have  entered  the  unseen  Avorld.  Here  I 
shall  mourn  over  the  moral  condition  of  these 

* That  in  which  his  heloveil  Mary  died. 


I 


I 

Chinese  Gods. 

^'ive  years  in  China. 


p.  1.11. 


M USINGS. 


KU 

teeming  millions,  and  pour  out  my  prayers  in 
their  behalf.  Oh,  that  this  may  be  a tpot 
blessed  by  God’s  presence,  and  sanctified  bj  the 
visitations  of  the  Comforter.” 


FIVE  YEARS  HI  CHINA. 


]o2 


CHAPTER  X. 

Excursions — Tea-Shops  — Temple  of  Tien-Moh-Shan  — Biulhist 
Worship — Traveling  by  Raft — First  Sermon  in  Chinese. 

In  the  spring  of  1855  Mr.  Aitchison,  in  com- 
pany with  Rev.  Mr.  Points,  of  the  American  Epis- 
copal Board,  made  two  excui’sions  towards  the 
interior.  We  give  a few  incidents  of  these  trips, 
as  recorded  in  the  ever-faithful  Journal. 

“April  20.  At  Tsung  Zeh  we  landed  and  dis- 
tributed a few  books.  A crowd  soon  collecting, 
we  were  forced  to  take  refuge  in  our  boats,  from 
which,  as  we  passed  along  the  narrow  canal,  we 
handed  many  volumes  to  the  eager  multitude. 
The  news  of  our  arrival  spread  like  wild-fire,  and 
every  window  and  door  was  full  of  eyes  watching 
for  a glimpse  of  the  strange-looking  men.  And 
such  eagerness  for  our  b^  oks  ! Oh,  that  the  mo- 
tive w’ere  good  ! Many  actually  endangered  limb, 
and  even  life,  in  order  to  become  possessors  of  a 


EAGERNESS  FOR  BOOKS. 


133 


volume.  May  God  make  the  day’s  work  fruitful 
ill  good  to  immortal  souls. 

“At  one  place  the  people  seemed  to  have 
turned  out  ‘ en  masse’  to  get  a look  at  us.  The 
streets  were  lined  with  persons  eager  for  a close 
inspection,  while  great  numbers  of  women  and 
children  filled  the  doors  and  windows.  What 
honor  ! The  Emperor  himself  wmuld  not  have 
been  received  with  such  demonstrations  of — curi- 
osity. Having  reached  the  boat,  we  were  beset 
with  visitors  loudly  calling  for  books.  To  escape 
their  importunity  we  launched  out  into  the  stream, 
but  even  then  many  came  to  us  in  boats.  Among 
others  two  very  respectable  gentlemen  called, 
wishing  for  works  on  medicine. 

“x\pril  23.  Started  early  on  our  return,  and 
retraced  our  path  in  the  Grand  Canal.  Next  day 
at  noon  we  reached  the  walled  city  Kia-IIing, 
containing  probably  about  200,000  inhabitants. 
We  entered  the  north  gate,  and  emerged  from 
the  east  gate,  followed  as  usual  by  a great  crowd. 
The  rabble,  however,  were  less  noisy  and  more 
respectful  than  at  some  other  times.  On  return- 
ing to  the  boat,  we  took  some  books  ashore  to 
distribute.  The  press  was  almost  intolerable. 

12 


134 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


Such  pushing  and  snatching  I have  rarely  seen. 
Men  could  hardly  have  displayed  more  eagerness 
liad  every  volume  been  solid  gold.  Multitudes 
turned  out  to  see  us.  The  scenes  attending  the 
progress  of  Kossuth  through  the  United  States 
were  re-enacted.  Such  things  would  be  almost 
insufferable  were  it  not  for  the  thought  that  every 
walk  of  this  kind,  every  exposure  to  the  gaze  of 
the  rabble,  is  a part  of  tbe  preparation  necessary 
to  the  success  of  the  Gospel  at  some  future  day. 
The  wall  of  the  city  seemed  to  be  in  excellent  or- 
der, the  streets  well  paved,  and  the  shops  filled 
with  valuable  articles. 

“April  25.  At  one  village  rve  saw  the  fishing 
cormorants.  They  are  large  birds  looking  some- 
what like  ducks.  When  not  occupied  in  fishing 
they  roost  on  sticks  projecting  over  the  water 
from  both  sides  of  the  boat.  When  fishing  they 
swim  in  the  water  a little  in  advance  of  the  boat, 
diving  and  rising  to  the  surface  constantly.  I 
saw  one  bring  up  a good-sized  fish  in  his  bill. 
The  poor  bird  tried  in  vain  to  swallow  his  victim, 
a string  round  his  neck  preventing  him  from  ac- 
complishing his  purpose.  How  they  are  able  to 
hold  their  struggling,  slippery  prey  is  a marvel. 


Five  Years  in  China. 


The  Fishing  Cormorant 


p.  134 


ANCESTRAL  WORSHIP. 


135 


“May  16,  Had  quite  a conversation  vrith  the 
boatmen  just  before  dark.  Poor  fellows  ! lioiv 
deen  the  darkness  in  which  they  are  groping 
along  their  life-path.  The  contemplation  of  such 
individual  instances  makes  me  sad.  And  then  to 
think  of  these  millions ! Oh,  when  shall  the  glad 
tidings  of  mercy  reach  them  all  ? 

“May  18.  At  Iluchau.  Me  arrived  here 
about  two  o’clock.  Had  the  pleasure  of  greeting 
the  mountains  once  more,  as  they  loomed  up  in 
the  distance.  Detained  in  our  boats  the  whole 
afternoon  by  the  rain.  More  serious  conversa- 
tion with  the  boatmen  just  before  dark.  They 
readily  confessed  the  worthlessness  of  their  gods, 
and  declared  them  to  be  of  no  use.  But  ancestral 
worship  they  were  not  so  ready  to  condemn. 
This  is  one  of  the  grand  obstacles  which  the  gos- 
pel encounters  in  China.  It  is  a part  of  the 
people’s  life.  High  and  low  are  equally  attached 
to  it.  Our  reasoning  and  illustrations  seemed  to 
have  some  effect. 

“ The  poor  fellows  who  work  at  the  oars  tell  us 
that  their  wages  are  only  five  hundred  cash 
(about  50  cents)  per  month.  What  would  Ameri- 


136 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


can  laborers  think  of  such  pay  ? Of  course  they 
have  their  daily  rice  besides. 

“The  inhabitants  of  this  region  seem  to  be 
very  poor,  but  still  contented.  They  often  sing 
while  at  their  work.  But  oh,  how  the  gospel 
would  elevate  them : how  it  would  change  the 
whole  aspect  of  things. 

“May  21.  Me-chi.  Our  course  to-day  has 
been  among  the  most  glorious  scenery — moun- 
tains on  all  sides.  Tlie  land  generally  lies  much 
higher  than  at  Shanghai.  The  mulberry-tree  is 
cultivated  everywhere.  For  the  last  few  miles 
the  stream  has  been  filled  with  rafts  of  various 
kinds  of  wood,  particularly  bamboo.  Hundreds 
of  men  are  employed  in  making  these,  and  con- 
veying  them  to  the  neighboring  cities.  The 
majority  of  those  we  saw* at  work  in  the  fields 
and  on  the  rafts  are  very  lightly  clothed,  some 
of  them  indeed  not  clothed  at  all.  A wild  song 
often  reached  our  ears  coming  from  some  solitary 
boatman  as  he  plied  his  oar. 

“ As  we  were  approaching  a bridge,  the  old 
captain  came  into  the  cabin  and  besought  us  not 
to  speak  while  passing  under  it.  On  asking  the 
reason  of  the  request,  he  gravely  informed  us 


THE  GENII  OF  THE  BRIDGE. 


137 


that  the  genii  of  the  bridge  ivould  be  grievously 
offended  if  a word  were  uttered.  We  thought  it 
best  not  to  encourage  such  a supei’stitious  notion, 
and  therefore  continued  talking  all  the  time,  de- 
fying the  power  of  the  mysterious  spirit,  by  call- 
ing him  to  come  out  and  injure  us.  The  poor 
old  man  seemed  quite  shocked,  but  he  soon  re- 
covered his  good  humor.  This  evening  he  pro- 
poses that  we  keep  watch  for  fear  of  robbers. 
In  this  matter  I suspect  he  is  only  half  in  earnest. 
We  only  laugh  at  his  fears. 

“May  20.  We  have  spent  a very  quiet  Sab- 
bath in  this  retired  place.  The  rain  descended 
with  little  intermission  till  about  three  o’clock. 
The  state  of  the  paths  forbade  any  attempt  at 
visiting  in  the  neighborhood.  Had  a little  season 
of  pleasant  meditation  just  before  dusk.  The 
boatmen  hardly  understand  why  we  are  unwilling 
to  proceed  on  this  day.  We  overheard  the  cap- 
tain telling  a visitor  that  we  did  not  work,  but 
only  played  on  the  Sabbath.  To-morrow  we  in- 
tend to  push  toward  the  West.  How  far  we 
shall  advance  will  depend  on  circumstances. 

“ We  have  been  sitting  on  the  bow  of  our  little 
boat,  enjoying  the  cool  breeze  and  the  moonlight. 

12  * 


138 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


The  natives  are  busy  speculating  as  to  our  busi- 
ness in  these  parts.  The  conclusion  to  which 
most  come  is  that  we  wish  to  sell  opium,  or  to 
buy  tea  and  silk.  Whenever  it  is  practicable, 
w'e  of  course  correct  them,  telling  our  real  design, 
the  spreading  of  Jesus’  doctrine,  and,  secondarily, 
seeing  the  country.  As  I write  the  wild  song 
alluded  to  above  comes  to  my  ear — how  strange 
my  circumstances ! Can  it  be  my  identical  self? 
the  William  Aitchison  of  three  years  ago?” 

At  this  point  the  missionaries  left  their  boat, 
and  proceeded  on  foot  over  a rugged  country, 
their  object  being  to  visit  the  famous  temple  of 
Tien-Moh-Shan,  and  climb  the  mountain  upon 
w'hich  it  stands.  Four  coolies  accompanied  them, 
to  carry  their  books  and  baggage.  “The  road,” 
says  Mr.  Aitchison,  “was  about  two  feet  wide, 
paved  with  flagging  stones.  Houses  and  people 
are  few.  The  ground  was  sw'ampy,  much  of  the 
land  a mere  jungle,  not  cultivated.  Almost  every 
hamlet  we  passed  seemed  to  be  devoted  to  the 
raising  of  silk  worms.  We  saw  the  cocoons 
hanging  among  little  bunches  of  straw,  or  bamboo 
wicker-work,  prepared  for  them. 

“ Every  few  U*  the  road  passed  through  a tea- 

■*Thc  third  of  a mile. 


THROUGH  TEA-SHOPS. 


139 


shop,  whose  cool  benches  and  refreshing  cups  in- 
vited the  weary  traveler  to  a few  minutes’  rest. 
In  these  shops  we  frequently  stopped,  while  our 
coolies  took  a smoke  or  drank  a little  tea.  IVe 
met  great  numbers  of  men  bringing  tea  and 
charcoal  from  the  interior.  These  generally 
Avalked  in  small  companies  of  eight  or  ten  persons. 
The  sun  Avas  oppressively  hot ; not  a cloud,  and 
scarcely  a tree  to  intercept  his  rays.  As  we 
pushed  forward  briskly,  I Avas  soon  in  a profuse 
perspiration,  so  much  so  that  all  my  clothes  were 
quite  saturated. 

“About  mid-day  we  reached  the  Availed  city 
Ngan-Kih.  Passing  straight  through  it,  Ave  halted 
at  the  first  respectable-?oo7«Hy  inn  of  the  suburbs. 
We  found  very  soon  that  looks  are  deceitful. 
They  furnished  us  a very  poor  dinner,  and  that  I 
tried  to  eat  Avith  chop-sticks.  HoAvever,  Ave  got  a 
little  rest  and  some  Avater  in  which  to  bathe  our 
hands  and  heads.  The  only  way  we  could  keep 
the  rabble  from  croAvding  us  Avhile  eating  Avas  by 
erecting  a Avooden  barricade,  a feAv  feet  from  the 
table,  and  defending  it  Augorously.  Thence  we 
proceeded  Avestward  a feAv  ?/,  Avhen  the  heat  be- 
came intolerable.  We  turned  aside  therefore  to 


140 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


a shady  spot,  unrolled  our  bedding,  and  stretched 
ourselves  out  for  an  hour’s  repose. 

“About  four  o’clock  we  again  moved,  quite  re- 
freshed by  this  brief  rest.  Just  before  dark  we 
crossed  a stream  on  a raft,  and  found  ourselves 
in  a small  village,  where  we  determined  to  spend 
the  night.  We  entered  the  first  inn  we  came  to, 
and  began  to  examine  the  accommodations.  A 
single  look  disgusted  us.  The  only  sleeping 
apartment  was  a spacious  loft,  half  full  of  straw, 
and  I suppose  quite  full  of  vermin.  Mr.  Points 
sallied  out  to  search  for  a lodging-place,  while  I 
attended  to  the  baggage.  lie  soon  returned  with 
the  news  that  there  was  a Budhist  temple  near 
by,  where  we  might  spend  the  night.  The  people 
here  were  very  rude.  We  could  not  get  a mo- 
ment to  spend  by  ourselves.  Our  supper  was  set 
out  on  the  aforesaid  loft,  and  consisted  of  a few 
ducks’  eggs  and  a bowl  of  rice.  After  this  apol- 
ogy for  a meal  we  entered  the  temple,  and  ere 
long  were  stretched  side  by  side  on  a table,  trying 
to  sleep. 

“May  23.  When  we  rose  from  our  hard  couch 
it  was  raining  fast,  and  we  began  to  think  of 
halting  for  a time.  But  the  shower  was  only  a 


POOR  ACCOMMODATIONS. 


141 


temporary  one,  and  we  were  soon  on  the  road. 
After  traveling  fifteen  li  we  reached  the  Availed 
city  Hian-fong,  Avhere  we  stopped  to  eat.  This 
place  is  small,  but  apparently  quite  respectable. 
The  streets  so  far  as  Ave  saAV  them,  for  China, 
Avere  Avide  and  clean.  While  in  the  inn,  Mr. 
Points  became  quite  ill,  and  I really  feared  Ave 
might  he  compelled  to  turn  hack.  After  resting, 
hoAvever,  for  a time  on  a table,  he  felt  better  and 
Ave  proceeded.  Large  croAvds  Avere  waiting  in 
the  streets  to  see  us,  but  not  a disrespectful  Avord 
Avas  uttered  in  our  hearing.  Indeed  from  the 
hour  Ave  left  Me-chi,  we  had  not  heard  the  word 
Pah-kAve-tsz  (white  devil.) 

“May  23.  Our  route  to-day  has  been  through 
the  most  magnificent  scenery.  Mountains,  A’al- 
leys,  groves,  streams,  all  in  beautiful  proportions. 
The  hill-sides  Avere  sometimes  terraced  very 
neatly,  each  step  up  consisting  of  a fine  field  of 
grain.  There  AA'ere  no  forests,  strictly  speaking, 
only  small  clumps  of  trees.  Some  of  these  trees 
Avere  the  largest  I have  ever  seen.  The  moun- 
tains have  a naked  appearance,  though  some  of 
them  are  coA'ered  Avith  bamboo.  We  frequently 
crossed  the  streams  on  large  stones,  Avhich,  on 


142 


nVK  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


account  of  the  recent  rains,  were  sometimes  seve- 
ral inches  under  water.  The  streams  were  all 
rapid,  and  flowed  over  a rocky  bed. 

“Saw  numerous  paper  manufactories.  The 
principal  machinery  consists  of  an  over-shot  wa- 
ter-wheel, and  an  immense  trip-hammer  which 
pulverizes  the  material,  (chiefly  bamboo),  of  which 
the  paper  is  made.  At  noon  we  selected  a cool, 
shady  place,  distant  (as  we  thought)  from  the 
haunts  of  men,  where  we  might  rest  a while.  But 
before  ive  had  fairly  spread  our  mat  on  the  turf, 
the  people  were  pouring  in  from  all  quarters. 
There  was  nothing  to  be  gained  by  feeling  pro- 
voked, and  therefore  we  tried  to  keep  our  temper. 
But  it  is  really  difficult  for  a man  to  eat  or  sleep 
with  an  admiring  crowd  of  by-standers  eagerly 
watching  every  motion  he  makes,  and  speculating 
in  no  very  subdued  tones  on  every  article  that 
covers  him. 

“Before  evening  Mr.  Points  felt  too  tired  to 
proeeed  on  foot,  and  we  therefore  called  a chair. 
I resolved  to  walk  to  the  summit  of  the  mountain, 
and  thus  do  what  no  foreigner  has  ever  yet  done. 

“As  the  shades  of  evening  were  gathering 
around  us,  we  reached  a temple,  where  we  stopped 


ABOVE  THE  CLOUDS. 


143 


for  the  night.  Here  we  were  in  no  very  comfort- 
ahle  phace.  The  priests,  to  the  number  of  twen- 
ty-five, are  idle  and  dirty.  They  have  assigned 
us  a fikhy  room  to  sleep  in,  and  we  have  just 
been  making  an  unsuccessful  attempt  to  eat  some 
of  the  dishes  set  before  us.  After  ten  o’clock  we 
heard  a terrible  thumping  of  drums  and  ringing 
of  bells,  the  signal  for  evening  worship.  We 
looked  in,  and  it  was  a sad  sight.  Three  boys 
were  left  to  do  the  chanting  and  praying.  They 
stood  before  the  huge  idols  in  the  dimly-lighted 
apartments,  and  mumbled  in  a low  tone  the  allot- 
ted number  of  words.  Each  seemed  anxious  to 
outdo  the  other  in  the  speed  of  his  tongue. 

“We  said  to  ourselves,  as  we  looked  on,  surely 
this  sight  is  enough  to  inspire  any  one  Avith  the 
spirit  of  missions.  What  an  abomination  must  such 
devil-Avorship  be  in  the  view  of  a holy  God.  We 
gave  away  quite  a number  of  books  to-day. 
These  Avere  everyAvhere  eagerly  and  thankfully 
received. 

“ May  24.  We  started  this  morning  in  the 
rain ; Avere  soon  pretty  thoroughly  Avet.  The 
scenery  became  grand  in  the  highest  degree. 
Our  course  during  the  Avhole  day  has  been  among 


144 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA, 


the  mountains.  Much  of  the  time  we  have  been 
just  ^Yalking  up  or  down  stairs.  The  road  is 
made  principally  of  large  stones,  down  which  the 
water  frequently  gushes  in  small  streams.  Me 
were  often  in,  and  sometimes  above  the  clouds. 
Now  and  then  as  we  reached  some  naked  peak 
and  hiilted  a moment  for  a look,  the  view  was 
sublime ; at  our  feet  was  a narrow  valley  through 
which  a torrent  was  rushine;  with  a deafening 
noise,  and  in  the  distance  mountain  piled  on 
mount-ain  as  far  as  the  eye  could  see.  One 
minute  it  would  be  clear  and  bright,  the  next  we 
were  enveloped  in  vapor.  Now  there  was  sun- 
shine, and  now  rain, 

“I  had  often  since  coming  to  China  expressed 
the  wish  to  see  a stream  of  clear  water  ; here  to- 
day I saw  scores  of  them.  Some  were  ivide, 
some  narrow : some  deep,  some  shallow : some 
noisy,  some  still;  all  clear  as  crystal,  whether 
tumbling  over  the  rocks  like  young  Niagaras,  or 
gliding  smoothly  along  over  a sandy  bottom. 

“ Before  noon  I became  very  tired,  and  had  it 
not  been  for  my  determination  to  walk,  I should 
have  shared  the  chair  with  Mr.  Points  as  he  begged 
me  to  do.  Indeed  I soon  became  quite  sick. 


TIEN-MOH-SHAX. 


14o 


We  halted  at  noon  at  a miserable  cabin  by  the 
road-side  where  we  bad  expected  to  find  a village. 
It  is  called  Ta-Ya-Wan,  (Great  Wild  Bend.) 
The  inmates  were  engaged  in  pickling  the  bamboo 
shoots,  of  which  the  Chinese  are  so  fond.  While 
the  dinner  was  preparing,  I coiled  myself  on  a 
bundle  of  bedding  with  an  umbrella  over  me,  for 
it  began  to  rain  a little,  and  tried  to  rest.  I 
made  out  to  swallow  a boiled  egg,  though  I felt 
little  appetite.” 

The  next  day  our  missionaries  climbed  a high 
mountain,  in  order  to  visit  the  temple  at  Tien- 
Moh-Shan,  of  which  the  journal  gives  a minute 
account.  We  copy  a part. 

“The  principal  priest  and  his  two  or  three 
subordinates  gave  us  a hearty  welcome,  and  im- 
mediately set  before  us  refreshments,  consisting 
of  tea,  little  cakes,  pea-nuts,  and  a sort  of  prune. 
This  temple  has  a splendid  location  about  half 
way  up  the  mountain.  It  is  surrounded  by  nu- 
merous pines  of  a giant  growth.  Many  of  them 
have  a girth  of  fifteen  feet.  The  murmur  of  fall- 
ing water  is  heard  day  and  night.  From  various 
points  you  get  a view  of  the  valley  below,  while 
above  the  mountain  rises  in  its  grandeur.  We 
13 


14G 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


were,  liowever,  too  weary  to  enjoy  or  examine 
the  scenery  this  evening. 

“ Just  after  dark,  worship  was  performed  in 
the  room  adjoining  ours,  by  one  solitary  priest. 
The  apartment  was  dimly  lighted  by  two  candles, 
burning  on  the  altar  before  the  principal  idol, 
Budh.  Incense  sticks  were  smoking  before  other 
inferior  gods.  There  wms  something  really 
solemn  in  the  service.  The  officiating  priest  in 
a plaintive,  w'ailing  tone,  recited  the  pra.yers, 
every  now  and  then  striking  a deep  sounding 
bell  or  a hollow  piece  of  wood.  Doubtless  the 
circumstances,  including  the  deep  gloom  of  the 
landscape  •without,  had  much  to  do  with  my  feel- 
ings. Oh,  how  I rejoiced  that  I knew  the  living 
God  and  Jesus  Christ,  his  Son  ! 

“May  20.  Had  a good  rest  last  night;  Mr.  Points 
on  a table,  and  I on  a settee.  Immediately  after 
breakfast,  w'e  set  out  for  the  summit  of  the  moun- 
tain, wdiich  is  said  to  be  about  ten  li  from  this 
temple.  The  path  was  steep  and  rugged,  in 
many  places  over-grown  with  shrubs  and  briars. 
4Ve  were  exactly  an  hour  in  making  the  ascent. 
The  view  surpassed  all  that  we  had  previously 
seen.  As  far  as  vision  extended  in  all  directions 


SINGING  ON  THE  MOUNTAIN. 


147 


were  mountains.  The  intervening  valleys  were 
cultivated,  many  of  them  ornamented  Avith  a 
streamlet  which  shone  like  a thread  of  silver. 
The  objects  of  interest  on  the  summit  are  a 
small  natural  bridge  of  rock,  under  Avhich  some 
Chinese  characters  are  carved  in  stone,  and  a 
grotto,  at  the  entrance  of  which  is  a fine  spring 
of  Avater. 

“ Most  of  the  afternoon  has  been  spent  in 
Avriting.  After  tea  Ave  walked  down  the  moun- 
tain path  a short  distance,  enjoying  the  moon- 
light. Here  we  united  in  singing,  AVhen  I can 
read  my  title  clear’ — ‘ All  hail  the  power  of 
Jesus’  name,’  and  ‘ There  is  a land  of  pure  de- 
light.’ For  the  first  time,  I presume,  these  soli- 
tudes echoed  the  praises  of  Jehovah.  Oh,  may 
the  time  soon  come  Avhen  all  Avho  resort  hither 
shall  make  the  beautiful  groves  around  this  temple 
vocal  Avith  hymns  of  praise. 

“ These  priests  of  Budha  remind  one  very 
much  of  the  descriptions  of  the  ‘jolly  friars’  of 
the  middle  ages.  Some  of  them  are  intelligent, 
many  are  as  stupid  as  a man  can  well  be. 

“ Thoughts  of  home,  (where  is  it  ?)  and  of  dear 
ones  whom  I shall  never  again  see  on  earth,  come 


148 


PrVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


over  me  to-niglit.  God  bless  all  whom  I love, 
now  and  evermore  ! 

“Ma}'  26.  As  soon  as  breakfast  was  finished, 
we  set  out  to  visit  the  temple  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountain.  Our  host,  the  old  priest,  led  the  way, 
habited  according  to  my  idea  of  a pilgrim  in  the 
time  of  the  erusades.  lie  wore  a broad-brimmed 
article,  which  answered  the  double  purpose  of  a 
hat  and  a sun-shade.  In  his  hand  he  carried  a 
long  mountain  staff.  We  followed,  dressed  in 
white  for  the  most  part,  aceompanied  by  three 
coolies,  one  of  whom  had  a bundle  of  books  slung 
over  his  shoulder.  The  path  was  really  a stair- 
case, winding  among  groves  and  precipices.  A 
pine  tree,  which  we  took  the  trouble  to  measure, 
had  a eireumference  of  twenty-four  feet  seven 
inches.  There  were  many  of  nearly  the  same 
size,  though  this  seemed  to  be  the  acknowledged 
patriarch  of  the  region. 

“ A number  of  hermitages  perched  in  the 
wildest  places  seemed  to  invite  the  weary  trav- 
eler to  frequent  rests.  These  were  generally 
oecupied  by  single  priests  who  were  in  solitude 
trying  to  merit  the  heaven  of  their  sect.  One 
of  these  abodes  was  half  the  work  of  man,  and 


TWO  HUNDRED  PRIESTS. 


149 


half  of  nature.  Within  a dark  chamber  whose 
roof  appeared  to  he  the  solid  rock,  was  a huge 
structure  of  plaster  before  which  worship  was 
paid  by  the  devout  visitor. 

“After  a wearisome  descent  we  reached  the 
temple,  and  it  is  truly  a magnificent  structure. 
Like  all  the  Chinese  buildings,  it  covers  much 
space,  without  being  very  high.  One  would  need 
a guide  if  he  wished  to  make  a thorough  and 
satisfactory  survey  of  all  its  parts.  From  the 
main  entrance  there  is  a gradual  ascent  by  paved 
Avalks  through  spacious  courts,  till  you  reach  the 
hall  in  which  the  gods  and  their  worshipers  re- 
side. There  are,  as  we  were  informed,  upwards 
of  two  hundred  priests  and  a hundred  laj’men 
attached  to  the  establishment.  In  certain  months, 
and  on  the  recurrence  of  certain  festivals,  multi- 
tudes resort  thither  from  the  adjoining  prov- 
inces. 

“ We  were  at  once  introduced  to  the  head 
priest  in  his  own  rooms.  lie  is  a tall,  spare 
man  with  a gentle  manner  and  not  unpleasing 
expression.  He  was  dressed  in  a yellow  robe, 
and  wore  shoes  of  the  same  color.  Tea  and 
sweet-meats  were  immediately  set  before  us. 

13  » 


150 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


Others  crowded  into  the  room,  but  still  paid  con- 
siderable deference  to  their  superior.  After  a 
few  minutes’  convei'sation,  we  proceeded  to  in- 
spect the  premises.  The  arrangements  for  feed- 
ing such  a number  of  persons,  were  well  worth 
seeing,  the  kitchens  and  dining-room  being  very 
large.  The  priests  were  exceedingly  polite  and 
hospitable.  Many  of  them  had  their  beads  in 
hand,  counting  their  prayers  after  the  manner 
of  the  Romanists.  There  were  some  interesting 
and  attractive  faces.  IIow  sad  the  sight  of  so 
many  poor  Avretches,  thus  blindly  groping  after 
heaven. 

“We  left  upward  of  a hundred  volumes  among 
them,  all  of  Avhich  Avere  thankfully  received.  On 
leaving,  many  folloAved  us  to  the  outer  gate, 
seeming  loth  to  have  us  depart.  It  is  not  strange 
that  they  take  pleasure  in  anything  that  breaks 
the  dull  monotony  of  their  life. 

“ Immediately  after  parting  Avith  them  I broke 
Mr.  Points’  cane  in  the  vain  attempt  to  break  a 
large  serpent’s  back.  Snakes,  lizards  and  cen- 
tipedes abound,  judging  from  the  number  I have 
already  seen.  The  returning  Avalk  Avas  exceed- 
ingly AAearisome,  and  I truly  rejoice  in  the  pros- 


A SOLITARY  PRIEST. 


151 


pect  of  to-morrow’s  rest.  Would  that  I had  the 
prospect  of  entering  some  church  to  worship  God 
with  the  great  congregation. 

“May  27.  Sabhath.  A day  of  rest  indee.d. 
Called  upon  a priest  who  lives  in  the  wildest  spot 
we  have  yet  seen,  about  a quarter  of  a mile  from 
the  temple.  He  is  the  most  interesting  man  we 
have  met  on  the  mountain.  His  hermitage  is 
reached  by  a descending  staircase,  where  a false 
step  would  be  destruction.  The  life  of  such  a 
Budhist  must  be  very  like  that  of  the  monks  of 
the  early  ages.  The  voluntary  offerings  of  those 
who  resort  hither  for  worship  constitute  his  only 
means  of  subsistence,  unless  perchance  he  culti- 
vates a piece  of  ground,  or  engages  in  some  other 
branch  of  manual  labor.  Most  of  them  seem 
contented  with  their  lot. 

“May  28.  Rose  at  four,  and  in  less  than  an 
hour  we  were  on  the  road,  bound  for  Shanghai. 
The  morning  among  the  mountains  was  most  glo- 
rious. The  sun  rose  in  his  strength,  and  the 
deep  shadows  fled  from  their  hiding-places  at  his 
approach.  The  air  was  pure  and  bracing,  and 
all  of  us  ivere  in  liigli  spirits.  The  road  which 
had  been  so  weary  for  days  before,  was  now  dc- 


152 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


lightful.  At  eiglit  o’clock  we  reached  Ta-Ya- 
IVan,  and  by  noon  we  were  in  Tsung-Tsong,  hav- 
ing walked  about  fifty  li.  A raft  was  immedi- 
ately engaged,  or  rather  a pair  of  them.  Two 
men, besides  ourselves  and  our  baggage,  were  to 
be  taken  to  Me-chi  for  one  dollar  and  four  hun- 
dred cash.  While  w’e  were  eating  dinner  at  the 
inn  of  the  village,  the  rafts  were  got  ready,  and 
we  at  once  embarked  amid  a crowd  of  wondering 
spectators.  We  were  highly  pleased  with  this,  to 
us,  novel  mode  of  traveling.  The  river  was  full 
of  rapids,  down  which  we  glided  with  amazing 
velocity  and  yet  perfect  safety.  Two  men  man- 
aged each  raft.  In  the  course  of  two  hours  we 
reached  a small  hamlet,  where  our  raftsmen  re- 
sided. A room  w’as  jH’epared  for  our  accommo- 
dation, which,  though  the  best  in  the  house,  was 
disgustingly  filthy.  During  the  night  Mr.  Points 
and  myself  occupied  a chair  and  a narrow  bench 
alternately.  Of  course  we  slept  almost  none  at 
all. 

“May  29.  We  were  stirring  early,  but  not  so 
the  raftsmen.  A man  needs  a vast  amount  of 
patience  to  travel  in  China,  especially  if  he  is  in 
haste.  At  last,  the  due  number  of  bowls  of  rice 


FIRST  SERMON  IN  CHINESE. 


153 


being  despatched  by  our  Chinese  hands,  we  got 
started.” 

The  party  returned  to  Shanghai  on  the  4th  of  . 
June,  in  which  city  Mr.  Aitchison  passed  the  re- 
mainder of  the  summer.  Tw'o  brief  entries  in  his 
journal  mark  an  important  epoch  in  his  mission- 
ary life. 

“ September  1.  This  day  completed  my  first 
year  in  Shanghai.  Truly  goodness  and  mercy 
Rave  followed  me  every  step  of  my  way.  Seldom 
Rave  I enjoyed  better  health  during  a period 
equally  long.  It  has  been  emphatically  a year 
of  preparation.  I have  attempted  little  in  the 
way  of  direct  effort  for  the  salvation  of  those 
around  me.  May  all  the  attainments  of  the  year 
be  consecrated  to  my  Redeemer,  and  may  the 
future,  be  it  long  or  short,  bear  w'itness  to  the 
sincerity  of  my  love  for  Christ  and  souls. 

“ Sept.  2.  To-day,  which  is  Sabbath,  I preached 
my  first  sermon  in  Chinese.  My  audience  con- 
sisted of  Mrs.  Bridgman’s  school  and  a few 
others.  My  text  was  in  Matt.  vi.  9,  10.  I oc- 
cupied about  ten  minutes’  time.  Though  the  ef- 
fort was  painful,  it  was  very  pleasant.  How 
blessed  the  privilege  of  thus  preaching  Christ 


154 


FIVK  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


among  the  heathen,  though  it  may  be  ivith  a 
stammering  tongue.  Two  persons  were  baptized 
by  Dr.  Bridgman,  one  of  them  a pupil,  and  the 
other  an  elderly  woman  who  resides  in  the  city. 
The  Lord  grant  them  a large  measure  of  his 
grace.” 


THE  PEJJISHMEXT  OF  A CHINESE  THIEF 


A NEW  i'UIEND. 


155 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Tiiendship  with  Rev.  J.  S.  Burdon — Change  of  Plan — Boat  Life 
— Sung-Kiang — Worship  of  Confucius — Mohammedans. 

During  the  year  thus  propitiously  closed,  Mr. 
Aitchison  formed  the  acquaintance  of  Rev.  John 
S.  Burdon,  of  the  English  Church  Missionary 
Society.  The  following  letter  to  Rev.  Dr.  An- 
derson gives  some  account  of  the  peculiar  and 
delightful  attachment  which  sprang  up  between 
them,  and  of  an  entire  change  of  plan  for  mis- 
sionary labor  adopted  by  these  brethren  in  con- 
cert. 

“ Sooxg-Kiang,  Feli.  1,  1856. 

“Rev.  and  Dear  Sir: — Believing  that  you 
would  be  glad  to  have  a more  particular  account  of 
myself  than  is  contained  in  the  Mission  Letter,  I 
send  you  some  details  of  my  present  mode  of  life. 
My  acquaintance  ivitli  the  Rev.  Mr.  Burdon,  the 
companion  of  all  my  wanderings  and  labors,  com- 
menced in  the  early  part  of  last  summer.  He 


15G 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


luid  been  severely  afflicted  by  the  death,  first  of 
his  wife,  and  then  of  his  only  child.  Fellowship 
in  grief  soon  drew  our  hearts  closely  together. 
It  was  not  long  before  each  found  in  the  other  a 
similarity  of  views  and  purposes  in  regard  to  the 
prosecution  of  the  missionary  work  in  China. 
We  longed  to  come  into  more  immediate  contact 
with  the  people,  degraded  and  prejudiced  though 
they  are.  We  longed  to  pass  the  barriers  which 
the  exclusive  policy  of  the  Chinese,  and  the  mis- 
taken policy  of  foreign  treaty-makers,  had  com- 
bined to  erect  in  the  path  of  Christianity.  AVe 
longed  to  carry  the  glad  tidings  of  salvation  to 
the  millions  around  Shanghai,  who  are  reached 
only  during  occasional  flying  visits  of  the  mis- 
sionary. 

“Our  first  step  was  to  hire  a house  within  the 
walls  of  the  city  from  which  we  could  make  ex- 
cui'sions  into  the  surrounding  country  at  our 
pleasure.  There  we  resided  for  three  months, 
devoting  ourselves  to  hard  study,  and  maturing 
our  plans  for  the  future.  AVe  concluded,  how- 
ever, to  abandon  our  house,  which  we  had  only 
designed  to  make  the  headquarters  of  our  opei’a- 
tions,  and  to  give  ourselves  wholly  to  the  business 


ITINERATING. 


157 


of  itinerating.  On  the  30th  of  October  last  we 
started  on  our  first  trip  ; and  from  that  date  the 
boat  has  been  our  constant  home,  although  the 
period  for  which  we  had  rented  our  house  did  not 
expire  until  the  24th  of  December. 

“I  trust  you  will  agree  with  me  in  thinking  our 
course  a wise  one,  in  the  circumstances.  Shang- 
hai enjoys  the  labors  of  more  than  twenty  ordained 
missionaries ; while  this  immense  plain,  teeming 
with  immortal  souls,  is  left  for  the  most  part  un- 
occupied, except  by  the  never-tiring  and  well 
nigh  omnipresent  emissaries  of  Rome.  More 
than  a dozen  walled  cities,  besides  almost  innu- 
merable towns  and  villages,  are  embraced  within 
the  limits  of  our  parish. 

“ It  is  our  design  to  spend  at  one  place  from  a 
week  to  a month,  or  even  longer,  according  to  its 
importance,  or  the  encouragement  we  meet  with, 
returning  to  it  again  in  regular  order,  when  our 
circuit  shall  have  been  completed.  The  city  from 
which  I write,  Sung-kiang,  lies  to  the  south-west 
of  Shanghai,  distant  twenty-five  or  thirty  miles. 
Its  population  is  probably  equal  to  that  of  Bos- 
ton. We  have  been  here  already  nearly  three 
weeks. 


u 


158 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


“The  accommodations  of  our  boat  are  not  par- 
ticularly spacious.  A cabin,  nine  feet  by  seven, 
answers  the  purposes  of  parlor,  dining-room  and 
bed-chamber  for  both  of  us.  A Chinese  teacher, 
servant,  and  four  boatmen,  complete  our  party. 
Where  they  all  stow  themselves  at  night,  is  still 
a mystery  to  me.  Our  forenoons  are  spent  in 
study,  our  afternoons  in  preaching  and  convers- 
ing with  the  people. 

“ I wish  you  could  accompany  us  to  the  front 
of  some  temple,  where  we  usually  address  the 
crowd.  As  we  approach  the  spot,  noisy  boys 
rush  before  us,  like  so  many  heralds,  sometimes 
shouting  at  the  top  of  their  voices,  ‘ The  barba- 
rians are  come,’  or  ‘ Ya-Soo,  Ya-Soo  !’  (Jesus, 
Jesus.)  By  the  time  we  get  to  our  pulpit,  usu- 
ally a stone  step,  or  other  convenient  elevation, 
we  are  hemmed  in  on  all  sides  by  the  eager  rab- 
ble. At  once  we  commence  discoursing  on  the 
grand  theme  of  redemption.  With  the  open 
heaven,  where  reigns  the  only  true  God,  above 
us;  with  the  hideous  images  of  a corrupt  and  cor- 
rupting heathenism  around  us,  and  a multitude 
of  immortal  but  perishing  men  before  us,  you  will 


INTERRUPTIONS. 


159 


not  -wonder  that  -we  sometimes  feel  the  stii’rings 
of  an  unwonted  inspiration. 

“The  fear  of  giving  offence  rarely  modifies  a 
phrase  of  our  address.  The  pleasure  of  the 
auditors  appears  to  be  commensurate  with  the 
amount  of  ridicule  heaped  upon  the  senseless 
objects  of  their  worship.  The  majority  pay  re- 
spectful attention.  Such  a motley  collection, 
however,  is  almost  sure  to  contain  some  ‘rowdies,’ 
who  busy  themselves  witli  absurd  speculations 
about  our  clothes  or  our  persons.  Occasionally 
a nut-shell,  or  something  equally  harmless,  is 
tossed  at  us  from  behind  by  some  fellow  of  the 
baser  sort.  The  sermon  or  rather  ‘ talk’  being 
ended,  we  give  an  opportunity  to  any  one  to  ask 
questions.  Too  often  ignorance  prompts  some 
frivolous  inquiry,  and  thus  diverts  the  mind  from 
more  serious  matters.  At  times,  considerable 
useful  discussion  is  thus  elicited.  Opium  and 
the  papists,  equally  the  curse  of  the  empire,  are 
the  most  frequent  topics  of  interrogation ; and 
they  are  destined  to  be,  as  I think,  the  mightiest 
obstacles  to  the  triumph  of  vital  religion.  A 
number  of  persons  always  follow  us  to  our  boat, 
to  whom  we  give  books,  if  they  can  read. 


IGO 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


“ Towards  evening,  commonly,  we  have  calls 
from  respectable  people,  most  of  whom  come 
ostensibly  to  learn  our  doctrine,  but  really  to 
gratify  their  curiosity.  We  invariably  make 
Christianity  the  principal  theme  of  our  conversa- 
tion, bringing  our  visitors  back  to  it  as  often  as 
they  wander,  Avhich  is  not  seldom.  We  have 
thus  far  met  with  little  open  opposition  in  our 
work.  Ill-bred  lads  are  our  greatest  annoyance. 
They  follow  us  everywhere,  racing  and  shouting 
at  our  heels,  as  though  we  were  wild  animals,  or 
something  worse.  Once  stones  were  thrown  at 
us  by  some  mischievous  person  in  a crowd.  None 
of  these  things  move  us.  We  have  entered  upon 
these  labors  at  the  call  of  God;  and  we  will  not 
fear  what  man  can  do  unto  us.  Amid  discour- 
agements of  every  sort,  we  comfort  ourselves 
W'ith  the  hope  that  the  Lord  is  sending  us  ‘before 
his  face,  into  every  city  and  place  whither  he 
himself  would  come.’  What  an  honor,  if  we  may 
be  employed  in  preparing  the  way  before  him! 
A glorious  mission  field  will  this  be,  when  the 
day  of  his  merciful  visitation  shall  have  come  1 
The  seed  now  cast  into  the  hard  soil  by  the  weary 
laborer,  will  then  spring  up  and  bear  fruit  unto 


CONVERSATION  AVITII  IIIS  TEACHER.  161 


life  eternal.  Even  if  ours  be  only  the  task  of 
breaking  up  the  fallow  ground,  we  will  yet  rejoice 
in  this  as  the  appointed  antecedent  of  the  wished- 
for  harvest.” 

Speaking  of  these  labors  in  another  place,  he 
says : — “ It  often  happens  that  some  one  asks 
for  medicine  to  cure  him  of  a habit  of  smoking 
opium.  Our  usual  reply  is  that  a firm  determi- 
nation is  the  best  medicine.  One  asks  if  we  ab- 
stain from  animal  food,  like  the  Budhist  priests. 
We  reply  that  these  things  are  not  important. 
Another  asks  if  we  are  the  same  as  Roman 
Catholics.  We  tell  him,  no;  and  perhaps  add  a 
word  of  explanation.” 

Again  he  writes,  “ I rvish  you  could  hear  and 
understand  some  of  my  conversations  with  my 
teacher.  lie  is  a decided  Confucianist,  or  more 
properly  infidel.  He  is  never  weary  of  raising 
objections  to  the  system  of  Christian  doctrine 
contained  in  the  Bible.  According  to  him,  our 
religion  is  the  same  as  that  of  the  Budhists. 
Alike  we  pray  morning  and  evening,  say  grace 
before  meals,  reverence  our  sacred  books,  and  ex- 
pect future  retribution.  He  never  takes  the 
trouble  to  penetrate  beneath  the  surface  of  things ; 

14  » 


FIVE  VEAUS  IX  ClIIXA. 


]()2 

never  investigates  the  evidences  by  wliicli  the  op- 
posing claims  arc  supported.  Closing  his  eyes, 
he  denies  the  existence  of  the  sun,  and  rushes 
blindly  upon  an  unknown,  mysterious  destiny. 
He  professes  to  believe  in  the  transmigration 
of  souls,  hut  I greatly  doubt  his  sincerity.  lie 
may  be  taken  as  a fair  representative  of  the  read- 
ing men  of  China.  Were  he  truly  converted, 
Christianity  would  find  in  him  an  able  champion. 
My  heart’s  desire  and  prayer  to  God  is,  that  he 
may  soon  become  the  subject  of  renewing  grace, 
and  thus  be  fitted  to  preach  the  gospel  to  his  be- 
nighted countrymen.” 

Tn  another  place  Mr.  Aitchison  says: — “Daily 
we  have  plenty  of  visitors,  but,  alas  ! not  one 
whose  heart  seems  touched  by  the  Holy  Spirit. 
They  come  to  see  and  be  seen ; and  sooner  or 
later  some  sinister  motive  becomes  apparent  in 
those  individuals  we  had  thought  most  hopeful. 
There  is  an  idea  universally  prevalent  among 
them,  that  connection  with  foreigners  will  better 
their  worldly  circumstances ; and  this  is  the  se- 
cret spring  of  many  a question  which  seems  sin- 
cere. Distrust  is  the  prominent  feeling  in  our 


HARD  ASPECTS. 


1G3 


minds,  even  when  conversing  with  those  who  are 
apparently  serious. 

“ It  is  hard  to  labor  among  and  in  behalf  of  a 
people  who  despise  you.  It  is  hard  to  be  called 
an  ignorant  barbarian  by  a man  who  does  not 
know  that  the  earth  is  round.  It  is  hard  to  be 
followed  through  the  streets  by  noisy  boys,  shout- 
ing all  sorts  of  insults,  and  occasionally  throwing 
small  stones  at  your  head.  It  is  hard  to  be  con- 
sidered an  opium  seller,  disguising  an  iniquitous 
trade  by  fair  discourses  on  virtue.  It  is  hard  to 
practise  self-denial  for  the  benefit  of  those  who 
would  rejoice  in  your  misfortune.  And  yet  such 
hardness  must  the  good  soldier  of  Jesus  Christ  en- 
dure in  this  empire.  It  is  glorious,  however,  to  be 
brought  into  such  fellowship  with  the  Redeemer. 
It  is  glorious  to  feel  that  his  presence  abides  with 
us.  It  is  glorious  to  know  that  if  we  suffer  for 
him,  we  shall  also  reign  with  him.  Then  w^elcome 
every  reproach,  every  privation,  every  form  of 
trial ! IrYelcome  even  death  itself,  if  it  be  for  his 
name  !” 

The  journal  adds  some  matters  of  peculiar  in- 
terest respecting  the  country. 

“21.  Our  forenoon  walk  brought  us  to  the 

O 


164 


FIVE  YEARS  IX  CHIXA. 


temple  of  Kwanti,  the  famous  clemi-god  of  China. 
Everything  seemed  to  be  in  good  order,  and  this 
can  be  said  of  few  temples,  at  least  in  this  region. 
In  front  of  the  principal  image  was  a tablet  con- 
taining the  words,  ‘Emperor,  ten  thousand  years, 
ten  thousand  years,  ten  thousand  times  ten  thou- 
sand years  !’  This  tablet  and  inscription  are  a 
common  thing  in  front  of  images.  The  design 
seems  to  be  that  the  worshiper  of  the  idol  may  by 
the  same  act  pay  homage  to  the  sovereign. 

“ After  the  usual  preaching  this  afternoon,  a 
young  man  came  to  the  boat  ostensibly  to  inquire 
about  this  new  doctrine.  lie  seemed  quite  intel- 
ligent and  sincere.  This  evening  he  came  again, 
bringing  with  him  two  companions.  We  had  a 
long  conversation  on  various  subjects,  religion 
being  of  course  the  prominent  one.  Allusion  was 
made  by  them  to  the  holy  water  of  the  Roman- 
ists, and  to  the  worship  of  the  cross.  After  their 
departure,  the  boatman  informed  us  that  he  heard 
them  just  before  reaching  the  boat  say  to  each 
other,  ‘We  care  nothing  for  these  doctrines,  but 
let  us  enter  and  inquire  how  we  may  rid  our- 
selves of  opium-smoking  habits.’  It  was  rather 
discouraging  to  know  that  this  was  the  secret  of 


Chinese  Temple  Worship. 

Five  Years  in  China, 


p.  164 


ADOPTED  MOTHER. 


165 


all  their  apparent  interest  in  Christianity.  It  is 
shocking  to  think  of  the  extent  to  "which  the  use 
of  opium  is  carried.  It  came  out  in  the  course 
of  the  evening’s  interview, that  it  was  common  for 
gentlemen  to  have  a guest-chamber  fitted  up  with 
all  the  apparatus  for  inhaling  the  poisonous  drug.* 
This  single  cause  threatens  to  destroy  this  entire 
nation.  Surely  God  will  arrest  in  some  way  the 
flowing  tide  of  evil;  ho"\v,  He  alone  knows.  Man 
can  scarcely  form  a conjecture. 

“22.  This  morning,  when  returning  from  our 
usual  walk,  we  met  quite  a cavalcade  of  manda- 
rins and  their  attendants,  some  in  sedans,  some 
on  horseback,  some  on  foot.  On  inquiring  the 
cause  of  the  procession,  we  were  informed  that 
they  were  proceeding  to  the  Kwanti  temple  to 
give  thanks  in  behalf  of  the  Emperor  for  a new 
mother, who  had  been  adopted  to  fill  the  place  of 
his  own,  recently  deceased.  Curiosity  prompted 
us  to  follow  them.  Reaching  the  temple  we  were 
immediately  surrounded  by  the  crowd,  who  asked 

* The  habit  of  smoking  opium  is  rapidly  increasing.  It  is  now 
estimated  that  hundreds  of  thousands  die  annually  in  consequence 
of  this  degrading  practice.  While  the  rich  man  has  a room  in  his 
own  house  fitted  up  for  the  purpoce,  the  poor  resorts  to  some  pub- 
lic place,  or  the  opium-smoker’s  den,  for  his  indulgence. 


1G6 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


all  sorts  of  questions  about  our  clothes,  &c.  For- 
tunately for  us  the  ceremony  soon  commenced. 
The  mandarins,  to  the  number  of  fifteen  or 
twenty,  dressed  in  rich  fur  robes,  arranged  them- 
selves in  two  rows  in  front  of  the  temple.  Some 
were  military  gentlemen,  and  some  civil.  Soon 
there  was  a fiourish  of  trumpets,  and  a yellow 
sedan  was  observed  approaching,  borne  on  the 
shoulders  of  a dozen  or  more  men.  Down  went 
the  two  rows  of  dignitaries  on  their  knees,  while 
the  chair,  carrying  the  Imperial  Message,  passed 
between  into  the  temple  court.  In  an  instant  all 
Avere  again  on  their  feet,  and  folloAving  the  chair. 
Before  half  of  them  had  entered  the  door,  the 
rabble  made  a push  forward,  and  soon  their  high- 
nesses Avere  jammed  among  the  elboAving  raga- 
muffins. There  seemed  to  be  little  respect  felt, 
as  there  Avas  certainly  little  shoAvn,  for  the  poAV- 
ers  that  be.  Waiting  till  the  rush  Avas  over,  Ave 
went  in,  and  found  all  the  huttoned  personages 
kneelintr  before  the  image.  Soon  the  mandarin 

O O 

Avho  presides  over  the  reading  community  rever- 
ently took  the  Imperial  document  in  his  hands, 
and  mounting  a stage,  prepared  to  read  it.  First, 
liOAvever,  there  Avas  a series  of  genuflexions  and 


INSCRIPTION  TO  CONFUCIUS. 


167 


‘knocking  heads.’  One  old  man  standing  on  an 
elevated  step  would  shout,  ‘ Kneel !’  and  down  all 
would  fall  on  their  knees  ; ‘ Worship  !’  and  every 
head  bowed  to  the  earth ; ‘Rise!’  and  all  were 
on  their  feet.  This  and  the  reading  being  ended, 
the  mandarins  betook  themselves  to  an  inner 
temple,  where  ive  were  not  allowed  to  follow 
them. 

“ This  afternoon  we  both  preached  in  our  usual 
places.  After  the  sermons,  two  young  men  came 
to  visit  us.  They  made  many  intelligent  inqui- 
ries, showing  that  they  had  already  acquired  a 
considerable  knowledge  of  the  facts  of  Christian- 
ity. Their  ideas  were  rather  Romanistic. 

“23.  This  morning  visited  the  Confucian  tem- 
ple. Its  interior  is  very  similar  to  that  in  other 
places.  There  are  the  same  inscriptions  in  praise 
of  the  Sage,  and  the  same  tablets  to  the  Master 
and  his  principal  disciples.  The  following  is  the 
inscription  on  the  tablet  of  Confucius  : ‘ The  most 
holy  teacher  Confucius’  spiritual  tablet.’  It  is 
somewhat  of  a relief  in  China  to  stand  in  a tem- 
ple where  no  grinning  deformity  called  ‘ god’ 
stares  at  me  from  his  dusty  shrine.  And  this  is 
generally  the  case  in  Confucian  temples.  After 


168 


FIVE  YEARS  IX  CHINA. 


preaching  Ave  ivere  quite  thronged  with  visitors. 
Tlie  principal  topic  of  conversation  ivas  Christ 
and  him  crucified. 

“ 24.  Before  leaving  our  boat  for  the  temple, 
tAvo  young  men  called.  All  their  inquiries  had 
reference  to  the  difference  betAveen  our  doctrines 
and  those  of  the  Papists.  They  seemed  to  be 
pretty  Avell  acquainted  Avith  the  chief  errors  of 
Home.  We  cannot  avoid  a feeling  of  regret, 
that  regard  for  the  truth  compels  us  to  disoAvn 
tliose  Avho  are  professedly  engaged  in  the  same 
Avork  Avith  ourselves.  We  learned  that  in  this 
city  there  is  a chapel  surmounted  by  a cross. 
Disciples  are  noAV  made  openly.  Were  Ave  Avill- 
ing  to  baptize  men  on  the  same  conditions  as 
they,  we  might  count  our  converts  by  the  hun- 
dreds. Baptized  heathenism  is,  hoAvever,  little 
if  any  better  than  mere  heathenism. 

“After  preaching  Ave  had  visitors  until  sunset. 
We  tried  to  be  faithful  to  the  souls  of  all.  Just 
before  nine  o’clock  this  evening,  my  name  Avas 
called  from  the  shore,  and  on  my  replying,  three 
young  men  came  on  board.  We  immediately  in- 
vited them  to  enter  our  little  cabin,  and  had  con- 
siderable discourse  with  them.  What  possible 


BAPTIZED  HEATHENISM. 


169 


object  they  could  have  I know  not,  unless  Nico- 
demus-like  they  came  under  cover  of  night  to  in- 
quire the  Avay  of  salvation.  Inasmuch  as  we 
have  to  deal  with  a crafty  people,  we  build  no 
hopes  on  such  circumstances.  Their  real  purpose 
may  be  disclosed  on  a second  visit.  The  number 
of  those  who  have  come  to  us  in  a few  days,  en- 
courages us  to  pray  with  renewed  earnestness, 
that  the  Lord  would  make  us  a blessing  to  these 
multitudes.  With  him  is  the  residue  of  the 
Spirit.  When  he  speaks  the  word,  there  will 
be  light  among  this  people. 

“25.  One  of  our  visitors  of  last  night  came 
again  to-day,  and  after  some  introductory  con- 
versation, his  real  object  was  disclosed.  He 
wished  to  sell  us  a quantity  of  timber  ivliich  he 
had  on  hand!  The  people  seem  to  think  that  a 
foreigner  is  made  of  gold.  Such  discoveries  of 
insincerity  and  selfishness  on  the  part  of  some 
render  us  suspicious  of  all. 

“27.  Sabbath.  This  forenoon  we  took  our 
station  in  one  of  the  temples  of  the  western 
suburb.  A few  gathered  around  us,  ivith  wdiom 
we  soon  entered  into  conversation  on  the  all-im- 
portant subject  of  the  soul.  While  alluding  inci- 

15 


170 


FIVE  YEARS  IX  CIIIXA. 


dentally  to  the  evil  of  opium  smoking,  we  were 
violently  assaulted  by  a man  charging  upon  us 
foreigners  all  the  curse  which  the  drug  entails, 
lie  inveighed  agai.ist  us  some  time  in  a towering 
passion,  the  burden  of  his  speech  being  that  it 
was  impossible  that  the  doctrine  of  the  West 
could  be  good.  A few'  words  of  explanation  dis- 
pelled some  of  his  false  notions  and  mollified  his 
rage.  To  the  last,  however,  he  pei'sisted  in 
ascribing  to  the  barbarians  the  miseries  of  his  coun- 
trymen. Oh!  this  awful  curse ! When  and  how 
is  it  to  be  removed?  Would  that  all  who  have  a 
hand  in  introducing  this  poison, could  have  list- 
ened to  his  truly  eloquent  denunciation  of  their 
iniquitous  traflTic. 

“ In  the  afternoon  we  preached  as  usual,  first 
within,  and  then  outside  the  city.  On  returning 
we  were  followed  by  a respectably-dressed  young 
man,  who  soon  introduced  himself  as  desirous  of 
forming  our  acquaintance.  We  invited  him  to 
our  boat,  when  we  had  a long  conversation  on 
the  subject  of  Budhism.  He  insisted  that  the 
priests  of  China  preached  the  same  doctrine  with 
us,  though  they  used  a different  phraseology. 
To  the  best  of  our  ability  we  pointed  out  several 


ALTAMONT  AND  THE  OLD  GENTLEMAN.  171 


important  ditFerences,  admitting  at  the  same  time 
that  the  system  of  Budhism  had  in  it  a grain  of 
truth.  He  wrote  out  for  us  a quotation  from 
one  of  their  classics,  which  undeniably  and  yet 
vaguely  pointed  to  one,  self- existent  Being,  who 
was  the  author  of  all  created  existences.  The 
young  man  seems  to  be  one  of  that  rare  class  in 
China,  who  possess  naturally  a religious  turn  of 
mind.  He  seems  to  be  groping  after  the  true 
way.  After  the  experience  of  the  past  week,  of 
course,  we  are  not  sanguine,  but  we  hope  for  the 
best. 

“ 28.  After  a little  excursion  to  one  of  the 
neighboring  hills,  in  the  course  of  which  we  fell 
in  with  our  fellow-itinerants,  Messrs.  Burns  and 
Taylor,  on  their  way  to  Sung-Kiang,  we  re- 
turned to  our  boats  about  four  o’clock.  No 
sooner  had  we  entered  it  than  an  elderly  gentle- 
man appeared,  and  pulling  from  some  recess  in 
his  ample  garments  a tract,  politely  begged  for 
more  particular  instruction  in  regard  to  the  doc- 
trines it  contained.  Its  subject  was  the  Death 
of  Altamont.  I did  not  learn  how  long  it  had 
been  in  his  possession.  We  briefly  explained  to 
him  the  important  steps  involved  in  becoming  a 


172 


FIVE  YEARS  IX  CHINA. 


Christian.  As  he  told  us  heAvas  going  to  Shang- 
hai, we  directel  him  to  Dr.  Bridgman,  as  a 
teacher  who  would  be  happy  to  guide  him  in  the 
path  of  knowledge.  The  old  gentleman  left  us 
Avith  many  professions  of  gratitude  for  our  kind- 
ness. May  the  Lord  lead  him  to  the  Lamb  of 
God  that  taketh  aAvay  the  sin  of  the  world. 

“Feb.  2.  Nothing  neAv  in  the  mode  or  the  re- 
sult of  our  labors.  Numbers  of  people  call  upon 
us,  but  none  manifest  particular  evidence  of  the 
Spirit’s  Avork. 

“Feb.  3.  Sabbath.  According  to  previous  ap- 
pointment, Messrs.  Burns  and  Taylor  came  to 
our  boat,  Avhere  Ave  together  celebrated  the  dying 
love  of  Christ  in  partaking  of  the  communion. 
For  many  reasons  the  occasion  Avill  long  be  re- 
membered Avith  interest.  We  sat  together  in 
heavenly  places.  We  four  represented  as  many 
denominations  of  Christians, — Episcopalian,  Pres- 
byterian, Baptist,  Congregation alist.  Mr.  Burns 
officiated.  It  Avas  the  first  time  in  his  life, 
though  he  had  been  in  the  ministry  seventeen 
vears.  He  read  and  commented  on  the  fifth 
chapter  of  Revelation.  AfterAvards  he  made 
some  interesting  remarks  appropriate  to  the  oc- 


RETURN  TO  SHANGHAI. 


173 


casion.  All  of  us  in  succession  offered  prayer. 
It  was,  I think,  the  most  profitable  communion 
season  I ever  enjoyed. 

“Feb.  4.  Long  before  daylight  we  were  on  the 
way  to  Shanghai.  The  wind  soon  rose  and  we 
were  unable  to  proceed.  Our  little  boat  was 
tossed  like  an  ecrs-shell  on  the  river.  After  the 
wind  moderated  a little  we  again  got  under  way. 
About  half-past  six  o’cloek  we  anchored  at 
Shanghai.” 

The  summer  of  185G  was  spent  in  Shanghai, 
“ as  it  would  have  been  fool-hardy,”  Mr.  Aitchi- 
son  writes,  “ to  brave  the  fierce  sun  of  this  cli- 
mate. As  soon  as  the  cool  weather  came  on,”  he 
adds,  “ I took  to  the  boat  again,  in  company  with 
my  beloved  Brother  Burdon.  lie  is  a true  yoke- 
fellow in  the  Lord.  Ilis  society  has  been  a rich 
boon  to  me.  We  sympathize  perfectly  on  all  sub- 
jects but  that  of  church  government,  and  there 
we  agree  to  differ.” 

August  10th  he  wrote,  “We  were  quite  inte- 
rested last  week  in  three  Mohammedans  who  in- 
troduced themselves  to  us.  One  was  from  Nan- 
king, one  from  Ilangchau,  and  one  from  Suchau. 
It  was  refreshing  to  hear  them  affirm  that  they 
15 


174 


FIVE  YEARS  IX  CHINA. 


■worshiped  the  ‘one  true  God.’  They  seemed  to 
know  little  more  of  the  peculiar  sect  to  which 
they  belong  than  the  name  of  its  founder,  the  im- 
postor of  Mecca.  According  to  their  account, 
there  are  vast  numbers  of  Mohammedans  scat- 
tered through  the  empire.  They  worship  God 
five  times  a day,  turning  their  faces  toward  the 
west.  Strangely  enough  they  profess  their  be- 
lief in  Jesus  as  a Saviour,  drawing  some  distinc- 
tion between  bim  and  the  false  prophet  which  I 
could  not  fully  understand.  Such  men  as  they 
seem  not  far  from  the  kingdom  of  God. 

“It  is  known  also  for  a certainty  that  there  is 
a community  of  Jews  in  the  interior,  who  have 
manuscript  portions  of  the  Old  Testament  in  the 
original  Hebrew.  Such  things  are  a pleasing 
testimony  to  the  truth  of  some  parts  of  biblical 
and  even  profane  history. 


TRYIXU  TO  SETTLE  DOWN. 


175 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Ping-Hoo-  -Reasons  for  being  there — Cheerless  Abode — Joy  in 
God — Importance  of  the  Step — Darkness  of  Heathenism. 

Thus  Mr.  Aitcliison  passed  the  second  year  of 
his  missionary  life,  “ not  slothful  in  business,  fer- 
vent in  spirit,  serving  the  Lord.”  But  he  and 
Mr.  Burdon  had  felt  for  some  time,  that,  although 
their  boat-life  had  some  advantages,  yet  it  lacked 
that  permanency  and  concentration  of  effort  neces- 
sary to  the  most  enduring  results;  and  they  be- 
gan to  cast  about  for  some  place  where  they 
might  settle  down,  at  least  for  a time,  and  try 
what  might  be  done  by  another  mode  of  opera- 
tion. The  following  letter  to  Rev.  Dr.  Anderson 
contains  a deeply  interesting  account  of  their  at- 
tempt to  establish  themselves  in  a large  town,  at 
a considerable  distance  from  the  coast. 

PijfG-IIoo,  Dec.  31,  1856. 

“ Rev.  and  Dear,  Sir: — You  will  begin  to  think 
that  my  correspondence  witli  the  Board  is  likely 


176 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA, 


to  take  the  shape  of  an  annual  letter.  For  my- 
self I can  scarcely  believe  that  a whole  year  has 
passed  since  my  last  communication.  True  in- 
deed is  the  Chinese  proverb,  ‘ Time  is  like  an 
arrow — days  and  months  are  like  a weaver’s 
shuttle,’  When  I become  better  acquainted  with 
this  most  difficult  of  all  languages,  and  am  able 
to  give  more  of  my  strength  to  the  direct  preach- 
ing of  the  gospel,  I hope  to  write  more  fre- 
quently. 

“So  far  as  my  missionary  life  is  concerned,  the 
last  twelve  months  may  be  divided  into  three  pe- 
riods. Up  to  the  early  part  of  July,  I continued 
my  labors  as  an  itinerant,  sometimes  penetrating 
to  a considerable  distance  into  the  interior.  The 
three  hottest  months  of  summer  were  spent  in 
Shanghai,  Rev.  Mr.  Burdon  and  myself  taking 
our  meals  and  studying  together  in  the  city,  but 
sleeping  at  the  houses  of  friends  outside  the 
walls.  Early  in  October  we  took  to  our  boats 
again,  with  the  intention,  however,  of  doing  our 
best  to  secure  a permanent  footing  in  some  place 
more  or  less  remote  from  the  influence  ■of  the  for- 
eign community.  Through  the  blessing  of  God 
this  intention  has  been  carried  into  effect,  and  we 


PING-HOO. 


177 


now  occupy  oui'  own  hired  house  in  the  city  whose 
name  heads  this  sheet. 

“Ping-Hoo  is  situated  in  the  northern  part  of 
Chekiang  Province,  about  seventy  miles  from 
Shanghai.  Its  population,  including  the  suburbs, 
we  estimate  at  nearly  100,000.  It  stands  in  the 
midst  of  a vast  plain,  thoroughly  cultivated  and 
densely  populated.  One  solitary  mountain  is 
visible  in  the  Southern  horizon,  a peak  of  the 
range  which  forms  the  barrier  of  Hangchau  Bay. 
Were  the  entire  country  open  to  us,  we  would  by 
no  means  select  this  as  the  most  promising  place 
for  a missionary  station.  But  in  present  circum- 
stances we  must  do  as  we  can,  not  as  we  would. 
While  the  people  remain  as  prejudiced  and  proud 
as  they  now  are,  while  jealous  authorities  watch 
with  a suspicious  eye  every  movement  of  the  for- 
eign barbarians,  and  while  human  treaties  ex- 
clude us  from  the  perishing  millions  of  the  vast 
interior,  we  gladly  take  possession,  in  Christ’s 
name,  of  any  spot  outside  the  ‘five  ports.’ 

“But  I must  tell  you  how  we  came  here  and 
what  we  are  doing.  Feeling  the  importance  of 
permanency  and  concentration,  we  have  from  the 
first  cherished  the  hope  of  establishing  the  centre 


178 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


of  our  operations  at  some  distance  from  Sliang- 
hai.  That  port  is,  in  our  opinion,  a most  un- 
promising field  for  missionary  effort.  Whether 
it  be  owing  to  the  fact  that  the  practice  of  the 
many  among  foreigners  gives  the  lie  to  the  teach- 
ing of  the  few,  or  to  some  other  cause,  it  is  unde- 
niable that  the  gospel  seems  greatly  hindered 
there.  Few  of  the  natives  pi’ofess  to  believe  its 
doctrines,  and  those  few  seem  sadly  wanting  in 
the  graces  necessary  to  adorn  their  profession. 
It  has  seemed  at  least  possible  to  us,  that  else- 
where the  obstacles  might  be  feAver  and  the  pro- 
gress of  the  truth  more  rapid.  At  any  rate  it  is 
time  to  try  more  aggressive  measures  than  have 
been  hitherto  thought  expedient.  As  I survey 
the  moral  wastes  of  this  great  empire,  the  ques- 
tion often  suggests  itself,  what  Avould  Paul  do, 
were  he  landed  at  one  of  these  ports,  Avith  the 
broad  commission  in  his  hand,  ‘ Go  ye  into  all  the 
world,  and  preach  the  gospel  to  every  creature  ?’ 
Would  he  be  content  to  abide  by  the  consular  re- 
gulations, and  revohm  in  the  narrow  circle  which 
they  define  ? Would  it  be  long  before  the  gospel 
was  proclaimed  in  all  the  chief  cities,  even  in  the 
imperial  capital  itself? 


SECURING  A RESIDENCE. 


179 


“With  a view  to  such  a permanent  settle- 
ment as  was  hinted  at  above,  we  sent  a cate- 
chist of  the  Church  Missionary  Society  to  this 
place,  some  time  in  August  last.  lie  secured  a 
small  room  in  the  suburbs,  and  immediately  sent 
us  notice  of  tbe  fact.  About  the  middle  of  Sep- 
tember Mr.  Burden  followed  him,  and  with  the 
landlord’s  consent,  crept  by  night  into  ah  upper 
room  of  the  same  house.  Three  weeks  passed 
quietly,  although  the  authorities  were  doubtless 
cognizant  of  all  that  transpired.  Early  in  Octo- 
ber I arrived,  and,  after  protracted  negotiations, 
we  entered  into  an  agreement  with  the  landlord 
to  the  following  effect.  We  were  to  leave  the 
place  for  three  weeks,  on  a long  purposed  visit  to 
Kingpo,  the  port  next  south  of  us.  During  our 
absence  the  house  was  to  be  vacated  by  its  pres- 
ent occupants  and  everything  made  ready  for  our 
reception.  Seven  dollars  were  to  be  paid  at  once 
as  earnest-money,  and  seven  more  on  our  return  ; 
these  fourteen  dollars  to  be  the  rent  of  the  prem- 
ises for  the  first  six  months.  We  paid  the  seven 
dollars  as  stipulated,  and  took  our  departure  for 
Ningpo,  October  20.  In  reference  to  that  visit, 
of  which  Ave  retain  a most  delightful  remem- 


180 


FIVE  YEARS  IX  CIIIXA. 


brance,  I will  say  nothing  here,  except  that  our 
spirits  were  refreshed  by  communion  with  our 
fellow-missionaries  of  various  denominations,  and 
our  faith  strengthened  by  witnessing  proofs  of 
God’s  converting  presence  even  in  China. 

“On  the  15th  of  November  we  returned,  and 
anchoring  our  boat  in  a retired  place,  sent  for 
the  catechist  who  had  been  left  in  charge.  In 
answer  to  our  inquiries  as  to  the  state  of  things, 
he  informed  us  that  various  objections  were  made 
by  a person  who  claimed  to  be  the  real  owner  of 
the  house.  Suspecting  that  the  whole  affair  was 
only  a plan  to  squeeze  more  money  out  of  us,  we 
paid  little  attention  to  the  representations  made. 
That  night,  under  cover  of  the  darkness,  we 
transferred  ourselves,  with  bed  and  baggage,  to 
the  upper  story  of  our  new  abode.  Everything 
was  done  as  privately  as  possible,  with  a view  to 
escape  the  notice  of  the  rabble. 

“A  few  words  will  serve  to  describe  the  resi- 
dence we  were  so  overjoyed  to  get  possession  of. 
Its  two  habitable  rooms  are  separated  by  a 
wooden  partition,  the  door  between  them  being 
made  by  the  removal  of  one  wide  board.  They 
were  both  cold,  dark  and  dirty.  Not  a gleam  of 


CHEERLESS  ABODE. 


181 


sunshine  entered  the  one  that  fell  to  my  lot. 
One  inner  wall  was  so  much  out  of  the  perpen- 
dicular, that  the  area  beneath  it  was  forbidden 
ground  to  all  our  household.  And  yet  this 
miserable  apology  for  a house  we  were  not  per- 
mitted to  retain  without  a continual  struggle. 
Absurd  reports  were  spread  among  the  neighbors, 
and  the  landlord  became,  or  at  least  professed  to 
be,  afraid  of  a disturbance.  On  the  8th  of  De- 
cember he  gave  us  notice  to  leave  the  premises 
at  the  end  of  the  month.  With  heavy  hearts  we 
meditated  on  the  probability  that  our  enterprise 
was  thus  to  end,  and  prayed  that  God  would  in- 
terpose in  our  behalf.  Our  assistant  was  directed 
to  seek  another  house,  and  as  the  month  drew 
near  its  close  one  was  ofiered  us.  We  accepted 
the  proposed  terms  without  hesitation,  and  on 
last  Saturday,  December  27,  effected  our  removal. 
Our  present  abode  is  an  improvement  on  the  last, 
but  is  like  all  Chinese  dwellings,  exceedingly  un- 
comfortable. Friends  would  smile  to  see  our 
bare  and  cheerless  rooms,  but  we  would  not  ex- 
change them  for  a palace.  We  are  not  Avithout 
the  presence  of  God,  and  that  makes  up  for  the 
loss  of  all  earthly  comforts.” 

16 


182 


FIVE  YEARS  IX  CIIIXA. 


In  another  letter  Mr.  Aitchison  says,  “My 
furniture  consists  of  a bed,  a chair,  a small  table, 
a bench,  and  a trunk,  -while  the  naked  tiles  above 
are  the  only  roof;  and  yet  I -would  not  exchange 
this  humble  hovel  for  a king’s  palace.  God  is 
here  to  bless  and  to  give  peace.  We  are  labor- 
ing to  advance  his  cause,  and  he  vill  not  leave 
his  servants  to  toil  alone.  The  shado-ws  of  great 
afflictions  sometimes  indeed  darken  our  path ; 
-we  sigh  over  vanished  joys,  and  are  ready  to 
faint  under  the  burden  of  our  griefs;  but  faith 
points  on-ward,  and  we  press  with  more  eager 
footsteps  to  the  goal.” 

“ Having  thus  told  you  how  we  came  here,  I 
proceed  to  give  you  an  idea  of  what  we  are  doing. 
At  first  we  kept  very  quietly  within  doors,  not 
deeming  it  expedient  to  show  ourselves,  much 
less  to  preach  in  the  public  streets.  The  report 
of  our  arrival  soon  spread  everywhere,  and  we 
thought  it  well  to  let  the  people  become  accus- 
tomed to  the  idea  before  they  actually  felt  the 
reality  of  our  presence.  This  secret  policy  is 
quite  abhorrent  to  the  spirit  of  Protestant  mis- 
sions, and  we  gladly  discarded  it  as  soon  as  the 
way  seemed  prepared  for  the  more  open  propa- 


DARKNESS  OF  HEATHENISM. 


183 


gation  of  the  truth.  For  upwards  of  three  weeks 
past,  we  have  gone  almost  daily  into  the  city  and 
delivered  our  message  in  the  most  crowded  thor- 
oughfares. Our  audiences  listen  with  much  ap- 
parent interest,  and  the  intellectual  knowledge 
of  Christianity  is  plainly  on  the  increase.  Tlie 
number  who  come  for  private  conversation  is  also 
much  larger  than  at  the  outset.  In  a few  cases 
we  have  almost  hoped  that  the  Holy  Spirit  was 
commencing  his  awakening  work  on  the  heart, 
but  as  yet  we  can  speak  confidently  of  none.  A 
few  books  have  been  distributed  among  those  who 
seemed  able  to  appreciate  their  contents.  For 
myself,  I think  the  importance  of  that  branch  of 
missionary  elfort  in  China  has  been  somewhat 
overrated.  The  number  of  intelligent  readers  is 
much  fewer  than  most  persons  unacquainted  with 
the  facts  would  suppose.  We  have  been  some- 
what inclined  to  open  a school,  but  have  as  yet 
come  to  no  decision  on  the  subject. 

“The  gross  darkness  in  which  the  heathen  * 
mind  is  enveloped  is  strikingly  exhibited  in  the 
inquiries  sometimes  proposed  or  remarks  made. 
Error  in  China  is  stereotyped,  and  on  that  ac- 
count difficult  of  correction.  You  may  repeat 


184 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


over  and  over  again  the  truth,  God  alone  is  to  be 
worshiped,  explaining  to  them  his  perfections 
and  attributes ; then  ask  your  hearers  what  is 
the  proper  object  of  worship,  and  the  answer  will 
be  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten,  ‘Heaven  and  earth.’ 
Make  the  necessary  correction,  and  reason  at 
length  on  the  absurdity  of  paying  homage  to  the 
lifeless  creature  instead  of  the  living  Creator, 
then  repeat  your  question,  and  the  reply  will  be 
in  many  cases  as  before,  ‘Heaven  and  earth,’  or 
possibly  modified  by  the  omission  of  earth. 

“Preach  to  them  Christ  and  him  crucified,  re- 
late the  story  of  his  birth,  his  instructions,  his 
miracles,  his  death ; show  the  need  of  an  atone- 
ment for  sin,  and  the  way  in  which  the  Son  of 
God  provided  it ; and  when  you  have  finished  the 
discourse,  some  one  will  inquire  if  Christ  is  the 
King  of  England.  Talk  of  the  soul,  its  nature 
and  destiny,  the  bliss  or  woe  that  await  it,  the 
wisdom  of  lightly  esteeming  this  world,  and  of 
seeking  heaven’s  happiness,  and  not  unlikely 
some  apparently  serious  auditor  will  interrupt 
you  by  begging  to  know  the  price  of  your  coat. 

“We  find,  notwithstanding,  considerable  satis- 
faction in  our  labors.  This  city  and  its  neigh- 


PROSPECTS  FOR  THE  FUTURE. 


185 


boi'liood  are  regarded  as  our  parish.  Acquaint- 
ances are  beginning  to  be  formed.  Prejudice  is 
wearing  away.  The  report  of  our  doctrines  and 
object  is  spreading  in  all  directions.  We  see  the 
first  faint  glimmer  of  that  light  which  is  destined 
to  increase  more  and  more  unto  the  perfect  day. 
May  it  not  be  that  the  Lord  has  chosen  us  to  be 
the  dispensers  of  his  grace  to  some  of  these  be- 
nighted souls?  We  are  not  Avithout  the  hope 
that  our  residence  here,  unimportant  as  it  may 
seem  to  some,  Avill  be  followed  by  a blessing  Avhose 
consequences  Avill  extend  beyond  the  immediate 
circle  of  our  operations. 

“In  regard  to  our  future  prospects,  I cannot 
speak  confidently.  Our  stay  here  depends  upon 
the  will  of  the  authorities,  or  the  disposition  of 
the  people,  both  rather  capricious.  We  know  not 
Avhat  a day  may  bring  forth.  The  present  calm 
may  be  but  the  precursor  of  the  coming  storm. 
It  would  be  strange  if,  in  the  face  of  the  treaty, 
we  should  be  permitted  to  remain  for  any  length 
of  time.  There  is  another  contingency  Avorthy 
of  mention.  Affairs  at  Canton  Avear  a threaten- 
ing aspect.  Americans  and  English  seem  equally 
involved  in  the  yet  unfinished  struggle.  Should 
16  * 


186 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA, 


the  war  now  local  become  general,  there  will  he 
no  safety  for  foreigners  beyond  the  reach  of  their 
men-of-war  guns.  Taking  all  things  into  consid- 
eration, I am  not  very  sanguine  as  to  the  perma- 
nency of  our  abode  here.  The  next  mail  may 
carry  with  it  th'e  news  of  our  return  to  Shanghai, 
or  at  least  our  departure  from  Ping-IIoo.  We 
will  strive  to  work  while,  in  a double  sense,  the 
day  lasts. 

“Is  it  not  time  that  China  was  occupying  a 
more  prominent  place  in  the  missionary  work  ? 
How  vast  the  population,  how  urgent  their  neces- 
sities, how  few  the  laborers ! The  commotions  at 
Canton  and  at  Nanking  will  doubtless  result  in 
increased  facilities  for  prosecuting  the  work  of 
evangelization  ; perhaps  in  the  overthrow  of  those 
barriers  which  ages  of  prejudice  have  reared  and 
fortified.  Where  are  the  youthful  soldiers  of  the 
cross  who  are  prepared  to  enter  in  and  possess 
the  land  ? Come  over  and  help  us  ! There  is 
room  for  hundreds  of  apostolic  laborers.” 

In  another  letter  Mr.  Aitchison  says  of  his  res- 
idence at  Ping-IIoo: — “The  step  is  one  of  some 
importance,  as  may  be  seen  by  a reference  to  the 
past.  No  Protestant  missionary  ever  resided  so 


IMPORTANCE  OF  THE  STEP. 


187 


far  from  the  five  ports  for  so  long  a time ; nor 
has  any  Romanist  done  so,  I imagine,  in  his  own 
European  costume.  We  cannot  but  hope  that  a 
precedent  is  established  which  will  hasten  the  day 
of  China’s  redemption.  Freedom  to  penetrate 
the  interior,  and  reside  where  we  please,  would 
be  a great  advance  on  anything  that  has  yet  hap- 
pened. This  city  is  not  very  pleasantly  situated ; 
nor  are  its  inhabitants  prepossessing.  Could  we 
choose  our  place  of  labor,  we  should  go  else- 
Avhere;  but  for  the  present  we  must  be  content 
with  what  we  can  get.” 


188 


riVK  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


CHAPTER  Xill. 

Still  at  Ping-lloo — Burdon  returns  to  Shanghai — Interesting 
Cases — China  opening — To  Ningpo — Mr.  Burdon’s  Wedding — 
Remarkable  Cascade. 

On  the  31st  of  March,  1857,  Mr.  Aitchison 
wrote:*  “I  regret  to  say  that  about  the  first  of 
February  circumstances  compelled  my  dear  bro- 
ther Burdon  to  return  to  Shanghai,  and  there 
take  up  his  abode.  Ilis  only  colleague  in  the 
mission  was  compelled  by  ill  health  to  sail  for 
England,  leaving  a large  house  and  boarding- 
school  Avithout  an  occupant  and  superintendent. 
The  path  of  duty  Avas  thus  plainly  marked  out  for 
him,  and  we  were  compelled  to  dissolve  our  agree- 
able copartnership.  Our  experience  demon- 
strated, to  ourselves  at  least,  the  practicability 
of  union  among  Christians  of  Amrious  denomina- 
tions. Each  retained  his  OAvn  opinions  on  ques- 
tions of  doctrine  and  ecclesiastical  government, 


* To  the  Mission  House. 


COMPANY. 


189 


and  at  the  same  time  respected  the  opinions  of 
the  other.  Common  interests,  labors,  and  hopes 
bound  us  together,  and  kept  our  hearts  in  har- 
mony. Oh  for  the  realization  of  a like  union 
among  all  the  members  of  the  Church  of  Christ ! 

“ I was  not  left  long  alone.  Mr.  Blodget  vis- 
ited me  early  in  February,  and  soon  after  his  de- 
parture I was  joined  by  Rev.  Mr.  Edkins,  of  the 
London  Missionary  Society,  the  companion,  as 
you  will  remember,  of  my  first  excursion  into  the 
interior.  We  shall  continue  to  labor  together, 
at  least  until  the  way  is  open  to  the  ‘regions 
beyond.’  Mr.  Macy  is  entertaining  the  question 
of  a removal  northward  on  account  of  the  com- 
motions at  Canton.  If  he  comes  I shall  hope  to 
have  his  company  in  the  delightful  privations  and 
labors  of  the  itinerant  life.” 

In  regard  to  their  services  in  Ping-Hoo,  Mr. 
Aitchison  adds : — 

“Some  of  the  neighbors  have  already  formed 
the  of  coming  to  listen.  A few  occasionally 
remain  to  attend  family  worship.  I wish  you 
could  be  present  at  one  of  these  social  exercises. 
As  we  all,  preacher,  teacher,  and  servants  read 
the  Bible  in  turn,  verse  by  verse,  you  would  be 


100 


FIVE  YEARS  IX  CIIIXA. 


Struck  Avith  tlie  (lifTcreiice  of  the  various  dialects. 
Our  household,  including  boatmen,  comprise  in- 
dividuals from  various  parts  of  the  Empire. 
There  is  one  from  Peking,  one  from  Shantung, 
one  from  Nanking,  one  from  Iluchau,  one  from 
Noo-sih,  and  one  from  Shanghai.  All  these  dif- 
fer considerably  in  the  pronunciation  and  ar- 
rangement of  words.  We  thus  exhibit  the  spec- 
tacle, on  a small  scale,  of  a second  Babel,  or  as  I 
would  prefer  to  say,  a second  Pentecost.  Oh 
that  each  one  of  the  number  was  intent  on  declar- 
ing the  Avonderful  works  of  God  ! 

“After  a brief  exposition  and  application  of 
the  portion  of  Scripture  read,  we  sing  a hymn 
and  unite  in  prayer,  in  which  latter  exercise  all 
reverently  kneel,  whatever  may  be  the  real  state 
of  their  hearts.  These  seasons  are  pleasant  and 
profitable.  The  Chinese  see  that  our  devotions 
are  rational  and  heartfelt,  very  different  from  the 
mummeries  practiced  in  their  temples  and  dAvell- 
ings. 

“As  yet  I have  little  to  report  in  the  way  of 
visible  success.  Some  cases,  however,  haA^e 
awakened  hope  in  my  breast,  and  at  least  kept 


HIS  TEACHER. 


101 


me  from  despondency.  Two  or  three  of  these  I 
will  now  briefly  mention. 

“ My  own  teacher  is  in  many  respects  quite  an 
interesting  character.*  lie  is  a native  of  Shan- 
tung, a northern  province,  and  of  course  speaks 
the  Mandarin  dialect.  Part  of  his  life  has  been 
spent  at  Peking  in  the  service  of  the  Eussians 
there  resident.  He  was  ‘born,’  to  use  his  own 
phraseology,  ‘a  Romanist,’  and  has  been  care- 
fully trained  in  Papal  schools.  He  can  sing,  and 
talk  bad  Latin.  Ilis  knowledge  of  the  Scriptures 
is  not  inconsiderable,  though  mixed  with  many 
erroneous  notions.  In  his  feelings  and  tastes  he 
sympathizes  with  foreigners.  For  some  reason 
or  other  he  became  dissatisfied  with  the  system 
in  which  he  was  educated,  dismissed  the  idea  of 
entering  the  priesthood  for  which  he  was  des- 
tined, and  came  to  Shanghai.  There  for  the 
first  time  he  heard  the  truth  preached  in  its 
purity.  Ilis  understanding  responded  to  its 
claim;  his  heart  also,  it  is  to  be  hoped.  About 
eight  months  ago  he  became  my  teacher.  During 
all  this  time  his  mind  has  been  brought  into  daily 
contact  with  the  word  of  God.  He  has  seen  its 


* Not  the  same  spoken  of  in  a former  chapter. 


192 


FIVE  lEARS  IN  CHINA. 


authority  appealed  to  as  the  basis  of  every  belief 
and  practice-  The  consequence  is  that  his  pre- 
judices have  gradually  melted  away.  Ilis  errors 
have  been  corrected,  and  his  mind  enlightened. 

“ A few  evenings  since  he  told  me  of  his  own 
accord  that  he  agreed  with  me  on  all  subjects  but 
two,  the  worship  the  Virgin  and  Purgatory. 
About  these  he  still  felt  some  hesitation.  I 
pointed  to  the  Bible  and  asked  him  to  produce  its 
testimony  in  favor  of  these  dogmas.  He  made 
no  attempt  to  reply.  I then  set  before  him  in  a 
few  words  the  common  Protestant  view,  to  the 
correctness  of  which  he  assented. 

“For  myself,  as  an  individual,  he  professes 
the  warmest  attachment,  and  his  mind  is  full  of 
plans  to  promote  my  usefulness.  One  of  these, 
which  partakes  largely  of  the  nature  of  an  ‘air 
castle,’  contemplates  my  removal  to  the  vicinity 
of  the  imperial  capital.  According  to  his  state- 
ments, there  would  be  a promising  field  of  labor 
/mong  multitudes  of  Romanists  who  are  weary 
of  the  Papal  yoke.  More  than  once  he  has  ex- 
pressed a wish  to  be  received  to  Christian  fellow- 
ship, but  I have  as  yet  taken  no  step  in  that 
direction.  There  are  still  some  inconsistencies 


SERVANT. 


193 


in  his  views  and  conduct  which  excite  suspicion 
of  his  sincerity.  These  Jiay  be  due  principally 
to  the  false  notions  imbibed  in  early  youth.  On 
the  whole  I cannot  but  hope  that  he  wdll  y^t 
prove  himself  a decided  Christian,  and  a valuable 
helper  in  diffusing  the  truth  among  his  country- 
men. 

“A  servant  who  has  been  with  us  about  a year 
and  a half,  gives  pleasing  evidence  of  being  af- 
fected by  the  truth.  He  appears  to  delight  in 
all  religious  exercises,  and  gives  the  most  fixed 
attention  to  the  message  of  salvation.  He  often 
fame  to  my  room  for  instruction,  and  though  na- 
turally very  ignorant  and  dull  of  apprehension, 
grew  perceptibly  in  the  knowledge  of  the  gospel. 
The  recovery  of  a son  who  was  brought  to  the 
very  gates  of  the  grave,  was  made  the  means  of 
deepening  his  interest  in  divine  things.  He  still 
insists  that  the  power  and  mercy  of  Jesus  were 
directly  displayed  in  the  healing  of  the  child. 
Two  months  since  he  requested  baptism,  but  we 
felt  constrained  to  defer  the  administration  of 
that  solemn  rite  till  we  have  more  decisive  evi- 
dence of  his  conversion.  At  present  he  is  with 
Mr.  Burdon  at  Shanghai.” 

17 


194 


i-I  ’■E  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


On  the  29th  of  June,  1857,  he  again  wrote: — * 

“Since  my  last  communication  I have  been 
permitted  to  prosecute  my  labors  at  Ping-Hoo 
without  molestation  from  the  authorities  or  the 
people.  As  eight  or  nine  months  have  elapsed 
since  we  commenced  our  operations  in  that  city, 
it  might,  perhaps,  claim  a place  among  the  sta- 
tions of  the  American  Board.  Just  at  present, 
however,  nothing  in  China  wears  the  aspect  of 
certainty  or  permanence. 

“Two  individuals  at  Ping-Hoo,  in  addition  to 
those  mentioned  in  my  last  communication,  have 
shown  a decided  interest  in  the  truth.  One  of 
these  was  the  father  of  the  girl  whose  death  V 
described  three  months  ago.  The  story  of  the 
family  is  a sad  one.  Escaping  from  Nanking 
two  years  since,  they  were  reduced  to  great 
straits.  Want  forced  the  parents  to  sell  the 
younger  of  their  two  children,  a girl  eight  or  nine 
years  of  age.  On  the  death  of  the  older,  their 
hearts  doubly  yearned  after  the  little  one  from 
whom  they  had  parted.  The  father  being  fur- 
nished with  the  necessary  funds  to  redeem  his 
child,  (only  eight  dollars,)  proceeded  to  Chang- 

* To  the  Jlission  House,  from  Shanghai. 


IXTERESTIXG  CASES. 


195 


cliau,  where  she  was  living.  Weeks  passed  with* 
out  tidings,  and  we  began  to  be  anxious.  At  last 
a letter  and  a bundle  arrived,  the  former,  in  a 
strange  hand,  announcing  his  death,  the  latter 
containing  his  scanty  wardrobe,  with  other  ar- 
ticles of  little  value.  He  had  been  disappointed 
in  his  object,  and  had  died,  apparently  as  much 
from  grief  as  from  disease. 

“I  am  not  without  hope  that  he  was  removed 
to  a better  world,  where  the  wicked  cease  from 
troubling  and  the  weary  are  at  rest.  For  three 
months  he  resided  in  our  house,  hearing  all  our 
conversations  with  visitors,  and  regularly  attend- 
ing family  worship.  He  acquired  a fair  know- 
ledge of  Bible  truth,  and  professed  his  firm  faith 
in  Christ.  Of  his  own  accord  he  requested  ad- 
mission to  the  visible  Church,  and  I intended  to 
baptize  him  on  his  return.  But  God  had  other- 
wise planned.  Perhaps  we  are  too  slow  to  recog- 
nize converts  from  among  the  people.  I have 
taken  measures  to  recover  the  child,  and  restore 
her  to  her  widowed  mother. 

“ The  other  case  is  that  of  a young  man  who 
was  employed  in  a pawnbroker’s  establishment. 
He  called  upon  us  almost  daily  for  months,  and 


196 


FIVE  YEARS  IX  CHINA. 


grew  rapidly  in  his  knowledge  of  the  gospel,  and 
apparent  attachment  to  it.  I hear  that  his  em- 
ployers have  attempted  to  discourage  his  inclina- 
tions to  the  foreign  doctrines.  His  conduct  has 
furnished  some  pleasing  evidence  of  his  sincerity. 
At  present  he  is  on  a visit  to  his  native  city,  in  a 
neighboring  province.  Before  leaving  he  begged 
a number  of  Christian  books  for  distribution 
among  his  heathen  friends.  If  he  returns,  as  he 
hopes  to  do  after  three  months,  with  the  same 
feelings  and  desires,  I think  he  may  be  immedi- 
ately baptized.” 

Near  the  last  of  October,  Mr.  Aitchison  with  a 
party  of  friends  visited  Ningpo,  to  attend  the 
wedding  of  Mr.  Burdon,  and  evidently  enjoyed 
the  trip  very  much.  “A  few  days  before  the 
wedding,”  he  says,  in  one  of  his  familiar  letters, 
“a  party  of  us  took  a trip  into  the  country  to  see 
some  famous  water-falls.  We  started  at  nine 
o’clock  on  Tuesday  evening,  and  returned  early 
Saturday  morning.  On  Wednesday  at  daylight 
we  found  ourselves  at  the  head  of  boat  naviga- 
tion. Taking  chairs  (the  whole  party  except  my- 
self) we  pursued  our  way  among  the  most  beauti- 
ful hill  scenery  to  the  place  of  our  destination, 


Tseen-chang-yon  Waterfall,  near  Niogpo,  Chioa. 
Five  Years  in  China, 


p.  197. 


GRAND  WATER-FALL. 


197 


called  ‘Snowy  Valley,’  where  we  arrived  at  two 
o’clock.  After  dinner  we  sallied  forth  for  explo- 
ration, and  came  at  once  upon  a cataract  pouring 
over  a perpendicular  ledge  of  rock  three  hun- 
dred feet  high.  We  crawled  cautiously  to  the 
edge  of  the  abyss,  and  with  awe-stricken  spirits 
gazed  downwards.  It  was  an  hour  of  rich  en- 
joyment ; the  sunlight  just  fading  among  the 
magnificent  peaks  that  towered  all  around  us, 
and  the  quiet  brook  gliding  peacefully  to  the 
plunging  point,  held  us  enchained. 

“ The  next  morning  four  of  us  set  out  to  visit 
the  higher  fall,  (500  feet,)  and  were  well  repaid 
for  our  toil  and  drenching,  for  it  was  a rainy 
morning.  Friday  we  returned  by  a nearer  route 
to  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  where  we  embarked 
on  bamboo  rafts.  Gliding  pleasantly  along  at 
the  foot  of  the  hills,  over  the  rocky  bed  of  the 
stream,  now  deep,  now  shallow,  beguiling  the 
time  by  conversation  and  singing,  we  reached  our 
boat  at  sunset,  and  started  for  Ningpo,  where  we 
landed  early  next  morning. 

“ On  such  trips  there  are  many  little  priva- 
tions and  hardships  to  which  one  must  submit, 
but  with  good  company  they  are  delightful.” 

17  » 


198 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Abandons  Ping-Hoo — New  Treaties — Death  of  his  father-in-law, 
and  of  Mrs.  Burdon. 

After  all  that  had  been  accomplished,  and  all 
that  had  been  hoped  for,  at  Ping-IIoo,  it  was 
still  found  impracticable  to  retain  the  place,  even 
as  an  out-station,  because  of  the  unsettled  state 
of  the  country,  and  the  loneliness  of  the  situation. 
Having  been  compelled,  as  we  have  seen,  to  part 
with  his  tried  friend  and  companion,  Mr.  Aitchi- 
son  returned  in  the  spring  of  1858  to  Shanghai, 
there  to  study  and  wait  further  developments  of 
Providence,  devoting  himself  in  the  mean  time  to 
such  missionary  service  as  the  circumstances 
would  permit.  Having  no  chapel  of  his  own,  he 
held  for  a time  a daily  service  in  that  which  was 
under  the  care  of  Mr,  Burdon,  residing  also  in 
his  family. 

Although  war  had  been  raging  all  the  time 
since  he  entered  the  country,  yet  now  a new  and 


PLAN  OF  STUDY. 


199 


more  portentous  cloud  is  rising.  Misunderstand- 
ings ■with  the  French  and  English  threaten  a 
more  serious  outbreak  than  ever  before.  The 
rupture  came,  ■with  increased  disturbance  and 
trouble.  The  whole  country  was  excited,  and 
further  attempts  to  effect  a settlement  in  the  in- 
terior were  necessarily  held  in  abeyance.  But 
busy  as  ever,  Mr.  Aitchison  engaged  in  preach- 
ing as  opportunity  offered,  making  also  brief  ex- 
cursions into  the  surrounding  country,  while  the 
greater  part  of  his  time  was  spent  in  poring  over 
that  “infinite  quantity,”  as  he  called  it,  the 
Chinese  language  and  literature,  intending 
thereby  to  lay  up  rich  stores  of  knowledge  for 
future  use,  when  the  right  spot  for  him  should 
be  found. 

“As  a Chinese  student,”  so  wrote  his  friend 
Mr.  Burdon,  at  a later  day,  “ he  was  from  the 
first  enthusiastic,  and  his  interest  ended  only 
with  his  life.  His  theory  on  this  point  was,  that 
the  first  five  years  in  China  should  be  principally 
spent  in  study,  with  as  much  of  actual  missionary 
work  as  is  consistent  with  that  object ; but  that 
afterwards  a missionary’s  time  should  be  spent 
principally  in  preaching  and  diffusing  the  gospel 


200 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


among  the  people,  with  just  as  much  of  study  as 
will  be  consistent  with  that.  And  he  adopted 
this  theory  on  the  principle,  that  though  death 
should  be  ever  present  to  our  minds,  as  possibly 
and  even  probably  near,  yet  all  our  plans  and 
works  should  generally  be  undertaken  and  carried 
out  as  though  long  years  of  usefulness  were  be- 
fore us.” 

At  length,  in  June,  1858,  by  the  treaties  of 
Tientsin,  the  country,  so  far  as  foreign  war  was 
concerned,  was  pacified ; and,  as  all  had  antici- 
pated, new  facilities  for  the  spread  of  the  gospel 
were  obtained.  Indeed,  beside  giving  access  to 
no  less  than  thirteen  new  ports  for  trade,  the 
entire  kingdom  seemed  to  be  at  once  opened  to 
missionary  labors ; and  as  the  wonderful  intelli- 
gence was  sent  to  England  with  all  possible  de- 
spatch, and  thence  flashed  across  the  Atlantic  by 
the  submarine  cable  just  laid,  the  two  continents 
stood  still  for  a moment  and  rejoiced  together  in 
the  wonderful  things  God  had  thus  wrought.  Of 
this  new  state  of  things  Mr.  Aitchison  speaks  in 
the  following  language  : — 

“The  treaties  recently  signed  at  Tientsin,  be- 
tween China  on  the  one  hand,  and  the  four  great 


CHINA  OPENED. 


201 


powers  of  the  West,  England,  France,  Russia 
'and  the  United  States  on  the  other,  furnish 
matter  for  devout  thankfulness  to  God.  The 
prayers  of  some  now  bowing  before  the  throne 
above,  and  of  many  still  hearing  the  heat  and 
burden  of  the  day,  are  answered.  A wide  breach 
has  been  made  in  the  wall  of  exclusiveness,  which 
so  long  interposed  a formidable  barrier  between 
the  heralds  of  salvation  and  the  perishing  millions 
of  this  empire. 

“We  are  not  so  sanguine  as  to  suppose,  that 
no  obstacles  lie  in  the  path  to  the  full  attainment 
of  the  privileges  above  indicated.  Imperial  edicts 
cannot  change  the  disposition  of  the  masses,  nor 
secure  the  integrity  of  oflScials.  In  planting  the 
standard  of  the  cross  in  regions  hitherto  unex- 
plored, we  must  expect  opposition  and  danger; 
must  be  prepared  for  exhibitions  of  contempt  and 
hatred.  Families,  especially,  will  have  to  en- 
counter rooted  prejudice  and  aversion.  But  it  is 
our  deliberate  opinion  that  the  time  for  the  occu- 
pation of  the  interior  has  now  come,  and  that  all 
difficulties  will  vanish  before  the  power  of  faith 
and  love. 

“ If,  however,  our  right  to  enter  in  and  take 


202 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


possession  of  the  ivhole  land,  in  Christ’s  name, 
were  allowed  for  the  moment  to  be  doubtful,  there 
is  still  ground  for  an  appeal  to  the  churches  to 
send  us  reinforcements,  in  this  fact,  that  nine 
new  ports,  three  on  the  coast,  three  on  adjoining 
islands,  and  three  on  the  great  river  Yang-tsz- 
kiang,  are  certainly  opened  to  trade,  and  of 
course  to  the  propagation  of  Christianity.  One 
of  these  is  in  the  extreme  North,  on  the  coast  of 
Manchuria,  with  the  clim<ate  of  New  England ; 
another  in  the  extreme  South,  on  the  Island  of 
Ilai-nan,  with  the  climate  of  Cuba ; and  the  rest 
are  between  these  limits,  presenting  a variety  of 
climate  adapted  to  every  sort  of  physical  consti- 
tution, and  a difference  of  population  suited  to 
every  grade  of  mental  culture.” 

Soon  after  the  foregoing  was  written,  Mr. 
Aitchison  was  again  called  to  a double  sorrow, 
the  death  of  his  venerated  father-in-law,  and  of 
his  new  and  valued  friend,  Mrs.  Burdon,  in  whose 
house  he  had  found  a pleasant  home.  Of  both 
these  events  he  tenderly  speaks  as  follows : — 


DEATH  OF  HIS  FATHER-IN-LAW. 


203 


[To  L.  K.  A.] 

“Shanghai,  Sept.  1,  1858. 

“Mt  DEAR  L.: — Your  letter, containing  the  sad 
intelligence  of  our  beloved  father’s  death, reached 
me  day  before  yesterday.  * * * jjis  end, 

so  free  from  pain  and  anxiety,  befitted  the  calm 
and  holy  life  he  led,  and  singularly  accorded  with 
his  often  expressed  views  in  regard  to  the  most 
desirable  mode  of  making  the  transition  from 
earth  to  heaven.  ^ 

“In  contemplating  all  the  circumstances  of  his 
departure  we  can  hardly  grieve.  Why  should 
we  ? Not  surely  for  him  who  has  reached  that 
haven  of  rest  toward  which  we  are  all  steering, 
who  has  already  vanquished  the  foes  against 
which  we  are  still  struggling.  Nature,  I know, 
claims  her  right  to  weep.  Let  our  tears,  how- 
ever, be  mingled  with  thanksgiving  for  that  grace 
which  shone  so  conspicuous,  even  to  the  happy 
termination  of  that  protracted  pilgrimage.  Let 
faith  soar  above  the  grave  where  the  dust  re- 
poses, in  the  sure  hope  of  a glorious  resurrection, 
to  that  bright  abode  where  the  spirit  already  lives 
in  the  presence  of  God.  What  we  misname  death 


] IVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


is  in  reality  but  the  entrance  into  life,  it  is  the 
portal  of  immortality. 

‘ Is  that  a death-bed  where  the  Christian  lies? 

Y’es,  but  not  his — ’tis  death  itself  that  dies.’ 

4:  :{!  9|c 

“And  now,  my  dear  L.,  I must  tell  you  what 
a terrible  blow  has  fallen  on  this  house  since  I 
last  wrote — Mrs.  Burdon  is  dead.  She  passed 
away  on  the  morning  of  August  16th,  after  (I 
may  almost  say)  but  a single  day’s  illness.  Her 
disease  was  a mild  form  of  cholera.  * * * 

“She  fell  into  a stupor  about  four  hours  before 
her  death ; but  up  to  that  time  had  continued  in 
a calm  and  peaceful  frame  of  mind,  expressing 
the  fullest  confidence  in  the  Redeemer,  and  the 
most  perfect  acquiescence  in  his  ivill.  Thus  was 
the  bridal  succeeded  by  the  burial  in  the  short 
space  of  a few  months.  * * h:  * 

“In  Mrs.  Burdon  I have  lost  a most  affection- 
ate and  gentle  sister,  and  the  Chinese  a friend 
whose  place  will  not  soon  be  made  good.  But 
God  has  taken  her ; and  he  knows  what  was  for 
her  good,  for  ours,  and  for  the  good  of  this  poor 
heathen  people.  In  this,  as  in  all  other  events, 
his  will  be  done.” 


EXPLORATIONS  NORTHWARD. 


205 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Explorations  North — Disturbed  State  of  the  Country — Again  in 
Suohau. 

Among  the  excursions  made  by  Mr.  Aitchison 
after  his  return  from  Ping-Hoo,  was  one  toward 
the  north,  with  the  design  of  reaching  Tsi-nan, 
the  capital  of  Shantung,  a province  whose  popu- 
lation is  28,000,000.  Ilis  faithful  friend,  Mr. 
Burden,  was  his  companion.  “Our  immediate 
object,”  says  Mr.  Aitchison,  “is  to  explore  the 
region  for  the  benefit  of  missionary  families  who 
meditate  a settlement  in  the  interior,  and  to  ef- 
fect such  a settlement  for  ourselves  if  we  find  it 
practicable.  Two  other  brethren  purpose  to  ac- 
company us,  at  least  a part  of  the  way,  Mr.  John 
and  Mr.  Lee,  both  of  the  London  Missionary  So- 
ciety.” They  started  on  the  5th  of  October, 
1858,  but  found  the  country  in  so  unsettled  a 
condition  that  they  were  not  able  to  proceed  far. 
At  every  town  they  were  carefully  .scrutinized  by 
18 


206 


FIVE  YEARS  IX  CHIXA. 


officials,  and  every  manner  of  objection  was  made 
to  their  advancing,  especially,  as  it  was  pre- 
tended, on  account  of  their  own  safety.  On  the 
fourth  day  Mr.  Aitchison  wrote  : — 

“ Putting  together  all  that  we  have  learned 
directly  and  indirectly,  from  the  common  people 
and  from  the  officials,  this  much  seems  to  he 
certain  ; that  within  a few  days  past  the  insur- 
gents have  shown  great  activity;  have  defeated 
the  imperialists  in  one  or  more  battles;  are  now 
besieging  Lohoh,  and  threatening  Yangchau ; 
the  communication  between  the  north  and  south 
sides  of  the  Great  River  is  cut  off,  and  local  ban- 
ditti are  springing  up  in  various  directions.  We 
have  almost  come  to  the  conclusion  that  a further 
advance  northward  is  for  the  present  impractica- 
ble. To-morrow  being  the  Sabbath,  we  shall  re- 
main quietly  where  we  are.  What  will  be  our 
course  on  Monday  remains  to  be  seen.  Mean- 
while we  commit  ourselves,  and  our  cause,  to  Him 
who  worketh  all  things  after  the  counsel  of  his 
own  will.  With  God  for  our  guide,  we  cannot 
go  astray  ; with  him  for  our  protect  >r,  no  evil 
can  befall  us.” 

On  the  sixth  day,  the  city  magistrate  at  Tan- 


CHIN-KIAXG. 


207 


Yan,  promised  to  send  a man  M'ith  them  to  see 
them  safely  to  the  bank  of  the  Greai  River.  The 
truth  was,  this  individual  was  to  be  a spy  upon 
their  conduct;  and  thenceforth  daily  they  en- 
countered new  difficulties,  heard  more  and  more 
of  the  unsettled  state  of  things  further  north, 
were  followed  and  closely  watched  by  their  spy- 
protector,  visited  in  every  place  by  the  officials 
in  great  pomp,  until  on  the  seventh  day  they 
reached  Chin-Kiang,  an  important  walled  city, 
upon  the  Yang-tsz-Kiang  River,  which  after  an 
obstinate  resistance  was  captured  by  the  British 
in  1842. 

On  reaching  this  city,  they  attempted  at  once 
to  enter  it,  but  were  repulsed  by  the  ever-present 
officials.  After  considerable  perseverance,  how- 
ever, they  obtained  permission  to  enter  in  com- 
pany with  the  officers  themselves.  “We  at  once 
jumped  ashore,”  says  Mr.  Aitchison,  “ and  were 
soon  within  the  gates.  Confusion  and  desolation 
reigned  on  every  hand.  Xumbers  of  Manchoo 
soldiers  were  gathered  in  little  knots  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  gate.  They  Avere  well 
dressed  and  rather  respectable  in  their  appear- 
ance, each  bearing  a Manchoo  character  upon  his 


208 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


outer  garment,  probably  the  same  in  signification 
as  that  which  the  Chinese  carry,  ‘brave.’ 

“ We  passed  down  the  main  street  some  dis- 
tance, turned  to  the  right,  then  back  till  we 
reached  the  wall,  along  which  we  walked  to  the 
gate  at  which  we  had  entered.  A rather  noisy 
crowd  followed  us  all  the  way,  notwithstanding 
occasional  reprimands  from  our  guides.  The 
whole  place  seemed  to  be  in  ruins.  The  few 
houses  left  standing  were  for  the  most  part  un- 
occupied. The  shops  open  were  principally  those 
which  dealt  in  provisions.  Workmen  were  busy 
strengthening  the  defenses  on  the  wall.  Every- 
thing indicated  that  an  attack  was  expected.  On 
approaching  the  gate  on  our  return,  a short,  ill- 
natured  looking  personage  stepped  from  an  oflBce 
and  whispered  to  our  attendants,  ‘They  must  set 
sail  at  once.’  This  seemed  only  the  expression 
of  a general  feeling  on  our  part.  Most  of  those 
around  us  appeared  like  villains  ready  for  any 
desperate  deed.  With  many  thanks  to  our  Man- 
darin friends,  who  had  treated  us  with  such  real 
kindness,  we  stepped  into  our  boat,  and  in  a very 
short  time  were  hastening  away. 

“ It  is  pleasant  to  refiect  that  we  have  taken  a 


VARIOUS  CITIES, 


209 


stroll  in  the  city  whose  name  has,  for  the  last  six 
years,  resounded  through  the  whole  civilized 
world,  and  which  I believe  is  destined  to  he  the 
scene  of  yet  other  conflicts  in  the  not  remote 
future.  A glance  at  its  position  shows  that  it  is 
indeed  the  key  of  China,  commanding  so  efiFectu- 
ally  both  the  Yang-tsz-Kiang,  and  the  Grand 
Canal.  Here  the  English  forces  met  with  a 
courageous  and  determined  resistance  in  the  last 
war,  and  here  the  same  enemies  may  again  try 
their  strength.” 

They  visited  Kyin-Tan,  Lih-Yang,  Woosih, 
and  Suchau,  and,  after  an  absence  of  twenty 
days,  returned  safely  to  Shanghai.  Of  Lih-Yang 
Mr.  Aitchison  wrote : — “ The  dialect  seems  to  be 
quite  unlike  the  Shanghai  on  the  one  hand,  and 
the  Mandarin  on  the  other.  Probably  we  were 
the  flrst  foreigners  that  ever  entered  this  city  in 
European  costume.”  At  Woosih  he  said,  “There 
has  been  much  deliberation  respecting  our  future 
course.  My  own  way  seems  at  present  com- 
pletely hedged  up.  Another  attempt  to  reach 
the  north  by  Chin-Kiang  seems  impracticable, 
and  the  outside  passage,  in  a Chinese  junk, 
against  the  monsoon,  is  no  more  feasible.  Per 
18  • 


210 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


haps  I can  do  nothing  better  than  to  aid  in  pre- 
paring the  way  for  the  occupation  of  some  of 
these  cities  of  this  neighborhood.” 

At  Suchau  he  wrote: — “The  people  did  not 
seem  surprised  at  our  presence.  A few  individu- 
als, chiefly  of  tender  years,  followed  us  about 
from  street  to  street.  We  were  everywhere 
hailed  with  the  opprobrious  appellation,  ‘ Pah- 
que-tsz,’  (foreign  devils.)  It  is  plain,  however, 
that  China  is  fast  opening.  It  was  in  this 
very  city,  that  on  my  first  trip,  four  years  ago,  I 
was  kept  a prisoner  one  day,  and  then  sent  back 
to  Shanghai  under  an  escort.  Then  it  was  not 
considered  safe  to  enter  it  except  in  disguise. 
Now  we  go  in  freely,  and  no  one  offers  to  hinder 
or  molest  us.  Let  us  hope  the  day  is  near  when 
missionary  families  will  occupy  this  important  po- 
sition, and  churches  of  Christ  will  flourish  among 
its  godless  and  pleasure-loving  population.” 

A month  later  he  was  again  in  that  great  and 
interesting  city,  and  wrote  as  follows: — 

“ My  little  boat  has  been  successively  anchored 
at  each  of  the  six  gates,  and  I have  daily  trav- 
ersed the  crowded  thoroughfares,  in  every  direc- 
tion, without  let  or  hindrance.  My  brief  experi- 


ONE  AMONG  SO  MANY. 


211 


ence  proves  that  a great  change  has  been  effected 
in  the  native  policy  Avithin  the  last  few  years. 
Only  a little  more  than  twelve  months  ago  for- 
eigners were  turned  back  from  these  gates,  and  a 
degree  of  hostility  Avas  exhibited  by  the  people, 
Avhich  is  rare  in  this  part  of  China.  My  message 
has  been  listened  to  with  great  apparent  interest 
by  the  various  audiences  Avhich  have  been  ad- 
dressed. 

“ But  oh ! how  poAverless  I feel  myself  to  be  in 
the  midst  of  such  a multitude ! Only  think  of  some 
poor  stranger  anchored  at  the  foot  of  Wall  Street, 
in  Ncav  York,  speaking  the  English  language 
but  imperfectly,  and  yet  designing  to  introduce  a 
new  religion  among  its  busy  population.  Such 
in  a human  point  of  view  is  the  undertaking  in 
which  I am  at  present  embarked.  Surely  I have 
infinite  reason  to  commit  my  cause  to  God,  and 
depend  upon  him  alone.  With  him  is  the  resi- 
due of  the  Spirit,  and  that  Divine  Agent  can  sub- 
due the  proud  heart  even  of  a Chinaman. 

“As  yet  my  labors  are  confined  to  the  simple 
proclamation  of  the  gospel.  Taking  my  stand  in 
any  convenient  place,  either  by  the  way-side  or 
ihe  steps  of  some  temple,  I do  not  need  to  wait 


212 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


long  for  an  audience.  People  flock  in  from  every 
direction  anxious  to  see  the  barbarian.  Begin- 
ning with  a few  simple  inquiries  by  way  of  con- 
ciliation, I gradually  turn  the  conversation  to  re- 
ligion, and  then  deliver  a formal  address,  occa- 
sionally, however,  putting  a question,  by  way  of 
testing  their  knowledge,  and  keeping  alive  their 
interest.  It  is  a very  encouraging  fact  that  al- 
most every  such  assemblage  of  hearers  has  a few 
who  give  the  strictest  attention  to  all  that  is  said. 
Priests  from  neighboring  temples  are  often  among 
the  hearers. 

“Mr.  Blodget  has  been  with  me  to-day;  we 
have  had  a delightful  day  preaching  together, 
each  of  us  having  addressed  a congregation  at 
least  six  times. 

“My  immediate  object  here  is  to  open  the  way 
for  the  permanent  residence  of  some  missionary 
families.  To  this  end  I go  into  the  city  daily 
that  the  people  may  become  accustomed  to  the 
sight  of  foreigners.  Of  course  I get  abundantly 
hooted  at  by  fellows  of  the  baser  sort,  but  this 
does  me  no  harm.  I am  according  to  their  lan- 
guage sometimes  a ‘foreign  devil,’  sometimes  a 
‘white  devil,’  sometimes  a ‘black  devil,’  and 


EPITHETS  AND  GOOD  RETORT. 


213 


sometimes  simply  ‘devil.’  Perhaps  you  would 
like  to  know  how  I rebuke  such  persons.  Gene- 
rally I do  not  notice  it,  especially  if  it  come  from 
the  lower  class  of  the  people.  If  those  who  ap- 
pear respectable  use  the  epithet  maliciously,  oc- 
casionally I rebuke  them  sharply,  telling  them 
that  they  have  no  manners,  Avhich  often  brings 
the  blush  to  their  faces.  At  other  times  I tell 
them  that  Confucius,  their  great  sage,  said,  ‘ All 
men  are  brothers  now  if  you  and  I are  brothers, 
and  I am  really  a devil,  what  then  are  you? 
This  often  turns  the  laugh  upon  them,  and  makes 
them  slip  away  out  of  sight.” 


A OHINKSE  IDOL  DECEIVIXO  WORSHIP. 


214 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Bright  Prospects — Suddenly  clouded — Death  of  Mr.  Macy— 
Again  Bewildered. 

The  year  1859  opened  with  bright  prospects 
to  the  missionaries  in  China.  Nothing  was  in- 
deed directly  said  in  the  new  treaties  about  the 
residence  of  missionaries  in  the  interior  towns 
and  cities,  but  it  was  fully  believed  that  what  the 
Government  would  not  in  words  permit,  they 
would  not  in /act  prevent.  It  was  therefore  felt 
that  an  entirely  new  era  was  about  to  dawn  on 
China,  and  all  looked  anxiously  forward  to  see 
how  they  should  enter  upon  it.  Each  mission 
began  to  look  to  its  resources,  and  to  calculate  on 
its  share  of  labors  and  results  in  the  new  field. 

None  was  in  a better  position  to  take  advan- 
tage of  this  new  state  of  things  than  that  of  the 
American  Board.  Two  of  its  missionaries  were 
indeed  needed  in  Shanghai,  one  engaged  in  the 


NEW  COMPANION. 


215 


translation  of  the  Scriptures,  and  one  in  direct 
labors  among  the  people ; but  beside  these  there 
were  two  others,  whose  presence  in  that  city  did 
not  seem  necessary,  and  who  had  special  reasons 
for  seeking  other  fields.  Both  were  in  the  prime 
of  life  and  in  the  strength  of  their  manhood ; both 
single,  and  ready,  therefore,  the  better  to  face 
many  of  the  inconveniences,  difiiculties,  and  dan- 
gers of  a new  enterprise.  Both  indeed  had  been 
for  some  time  preparing  to  plant  the  gospel  in 
some  city  north  of  the  Yang-tsz-Kiang,  and  in 
that  direction  their  thoughts  were  now  turned. 

These  men  were  Mr.  Aitchison  and  the  Rev. 
William  Allen  Macy.  The  latter  had  previously 
been  connected  with  the  mission  at  Ningpo,  but 
had  joined  that  at  Shanghai,  because  of  the  dis- 
turbed condition  of  things  at  the  former  port, 
rendering  missionary  labor  more  difficult  and  less 
promising  than  could  be  desired.  These  men 
were  not  strangers ; they  had  long  known  each 
other,  and  were  well  fitted  by  common  loveliness 
of  character,  by  ripe  scholarship,  both  in  the  Eu- 
ropean and  the  Chinese  sense  of  the  term,  by  de- 
voted attachment  to  the  missionary  work,  to  be 
true  yoke-fellows,  and  eminently  qualified  to  b© 


216 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


the  pioneers  of  Protestant  missions  in  regions 
where  Christ  had  not  been  named. 

And  now  also  the  ardent  desire  which  Mr. 
Aitchison  had  so  long  cherished,  that  he  might 
effect  a permanent  residence  somewhere  in  the 
interior,  might  find  indeed  a more  promising  field 
of  labor  than  any  he  had  yet  seen,  seemed  about 
to  be  realized.  He  had,  in  fact,  turned  his  long- 
ing eyes  to  the  grand  capital  itself,  hoping  that 
he  might  some  day  get  within  its  sacred  walls, 
and  even  there  “ where  Satan’s  seat  is,”  have  the 
unspeakable  honor  and  privilege  of  planting  the 
standard  of  the  cross.  Or,  if  he  could  not  reach  the 
capital,  he  had  thought  that  Tungchau,  a large 
city  only  twelve  miles  from  Peking,  might  be  his 
residence.  For  this  purpose  he  had  studied  the 
Mandarin  dialect,  and  held  himself  in  readiness. 
“Speak,  Lord,  for  thy  servant  heareth” — this 
was  his  waiting  attitude,  as  it  is  always  the  glory 
of  the  creature. 

So  he  and  Mr.  Macy  were  planning  all  the 
earlier  part  of  the  year,  and  fully  expected  to  be 
able  to  start  on  their  new  and  interesting  expe- 
dition by  the  middle  or  end  of  April,  But  the 
Master  had  other  plans  for  his  servants;  and 


MR.  MACY’S  death. 


217 


never  ■was  the  motto,  “Man  proposes;  God  dis- 
poses,” more  strikingly  exemplified.  Before  the 
April  sho'wers  began  to  fall,  Mr.  Macy  ■was  pros- 
trated by  sudden  sickness,  which  proved  to  be 
confluent  small-pox  in  its  worst  form.  For  eleven 
days  Mr.  Aitchison  watched  most  tenderly  over 
the  sick,  did  all  in  his  power  to  minister  to  his 
comfort,  bathing  his  eyes  and  face  during  the 
violence  of  the  disease,  reading  to  him,  and  pray- 
ing with  him  ; and  when  death  had  done  its  work, 
with  Mr.  Blodget,  he  prepared  the  poor  mortal 
remains  for  the  tomb. 

To  Mr.  Aitchison  this  new  dispensation  of 
Providence  seemed  dark  indeed.  He  knew  not 
what  it  meant,  or  ■which  way  to  turn.  Writing 
to  his  beloved  friend  Mr.  Burdon  he  says: — 

“ Thus,  once  more  my  cherished  hopes  are 
dashed,  and  my  favorite  plans  frustrated.  I 
trust,  however,  I am  able  to  look  up,  and  say  to 
God,  in  this  dispensation,  as  in  all  others,  ‘ Not 
my  will,  hut  thine  he  done.’  If  years  of  labor 
are  still  allotted  me,  as  on  the  whole  I anticipate, 
I know  not  at  present  what  course  to  steer.  My 
aspirations  are  still  interiorwards,  either  in  the 
direction  of  the  north  or  west.  Should  some 


19 


218 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


happy  turn  of  Providence  make  your  path  and 
mine  coincident,  I should  esteem  myself  highly 
favored.  Doubtless  the  Lord  will  order  our  steps 
aright,  if  we  sincerely  look  to  him  for  guid- 
ance.” 

In  the  same  letter  he  reviews  his  past  connec- 
tion with  China,  and  dedicates  himself  anew  to 
his  Master.  “ This  is  the  anniversary  of  my  sail- 
ing fi-om  America.  Five  years  ago,  just  at  this 
hour  of  noon,  the  good  ship  Candace  cast  loose 
from  the  wharf,  and  turned  her  prow  toward  the 
far  east. 

“ Truly  goodness  and  mercy  have  followed  me 
during  all  this  time.  How  much  occasion  I have 
for  gratitude  and  praise  ! And  yet  how  little 
have  I accomplished  in  the  cause  of  my  Lord  and 
Master  ! It  is  high  time  to  gird  on  my  armor 
anew ; it  is  high  time  to  enter  in  earnest  upon 
the  conflict  with  the  powers  of  darkness,  both  in 
me  and  around  me.  Do,  my  dear  brother,  lend 
me  the  aid  of  your  prayers.” 

Attending  upon  a friend  in  that  fearful  disease 
as  Mr.  Aitchison  did,  was  not,  of  course,  without 
serious  exposure  of  his  OAvn  life ; but  God  was 
merciful,  and  he  was  spared.  And  yet,  breath- 


TRIED  BET  TRUSTING. 


219 


ing,  for  eleven  successive  nights  and  parts  of 
days,  the  pestilential  air  of  such  a sick  room, 
together  with  the  fatigue  of  protracted  watching, 
had  sensibly  affected  his  health. 


THE  CHINESE  SEDAN  CHAIR. 


220 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Still  Planning — Joins  the  Embassy  to  Peking — Repulse  at  the 
Peiho — Negotiations  and  Hopes. 

Still  hoping  that  some  kind  providence  would 
prepare  the  way  for  his  access  to  some  one  of  the 
Northern  provinces,  or  to  the  capital  itself,  early 
in  June  Mr.  Aitchison  most  unexpectedly  re- 
ceived an  invitation  to  join,  as  one  of  its  inter- 
preters, the  American  Embassy,  then  about  to 
proceed  to  Peking.  This  seemed  to  be  the  very 
thing  for  which,  in  substance,  he  had  been  so  long 
waiting  and  praying.  It  would  at  least  give  him 
an  opportunity  to  explore  the  country;  and  if  he 
found  it  possible  to  remain  in  the  Capital,  and 
be  the  first  to  live  and  labor  as  a true  missionary 
of  the  cross,  in  that  great  centre  of  the  most  pop- 
ulous kingdom  of  the  globe,  he  would  consider 
himself  the  most  favored  and  most  happy  man  on 
earth. 


REPULSE  AT  THE  PEIHO. 


221 


With  some  hope  at  least  of  this  sort,  and 
feeling  also  that  the  trip  might  be  beneficial  to 
his  health,  he  readily  accepted  the  invitation  ten- 
dered him,  and,  singularly  enough,  parted  from 
his  dear  friends  in  Shanghai  as  though  he  did 
not  expect  to  meet  them  again  this  side  of  the 
throne  of  God.  The  Embassy,  consisting  of  his 
excellency,  Mr.  Ward,  Minister  Plenipotentiary 
from  this  country,  Avith  his  suite,  embarked  on 
the  16th  of  June,  in  the  U.  S.  frigate  Powhatan, 
attended  by  a smaller  steamer,  the  Taiwan,  and 
was  five  days  sailing  up  the  coast.  In  that  brief 
period  Mr.  Aitchison  had  manifestly  improved  in 
health  and  spirits.  But  on  reaching  the  mouth 
of  the  Peiho,  the  expedition  was  brought  to  a sud- 
den and  unexpected  stand  by  the  unlooked  for 
defeat  of  the  French  and  English,  by  the  Chinese, 
of  which  Mr.  Aitchison,  not  without  some  personal 
danger,  was  a spectator. 

For  several  days  after  this  disastrous  repulse 
all  was  confusion  and  disappointment.  The  Eng- 
lish were  trying  to  get  away  their  disabled  gun- 
boats, whilst  the  Chinese  kept  up  a steady  fire 
from  their  forts,  and  poor,  weary,  worn  stragglers 
were  coming  in.  We  give  some  of  Mr.  Aitchi- 

19  * 


222 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA, 


son’s  reflections,  the  flrst  written  at  the  close  of 
the  Sabbath  succeeding  the  repulse. 

“Such  have  been  the  scenes  of  this  holy  day. 
Xever  did  I spend  one  like  it,  and  it  is  my  ear- 
nest prayer  that  I may  never  spend  another  in 
similar  circumstances.  War  nev^er  appeared  to 
me  so  horrible  as  it  does  now.  Oh,  when  will  the 
Prince  of  Peace  extend  his  peaceful  sway  over 
the  earth,  and  the  nations  learn  war  no  more!” 

After  giving  a more  minute  account  of  the 
“immediate  occasion  of  this  tremendous  conflict,” 
Mr.  Aitchison  says:  “Its  effects,  for  some  time 

to  come,  will  be  exceedingly  prejudicial  to  the 
interests  of  foreigners,  but  doubtless  the  final 
result  will  be  for  good.  The  day  of  retribution 
will  surely  come,  and  when  it  does  the  English 
will  not  be  satisfied  with  the  privileges  guaranteed 
by  the  now  annulled  treaty,  but  they  will  demand 
far  more.  Of  course  we  have  given  up  all  hope 
of  reaching  Peking  this  year.  What  the  course 
of  events  will  be  it  is  impossible  to  determine. 

“I  tremble  for  the  infant  missions,  already 
established  under  favorable  circumstances  at 
Ilangchau  and  elsewhere.  Probably  the  ti- 
dings of  yesterday’s  defeat  will  lead  to  their  tem- 


INTERESTING  CASE. 


223 


porary  abandonment.  Thus  ends  the  treaty  of 
Tientsin,  which  thrilled  the  Christian  world  with 
joy  and  hope.  All  our  fondest  anticipations  are 
disappointed.  The  gloom  which  was  just  begin- 
ning to  disperse  from  this  land  has  settled  down 
with  increasing  density,  and  all  the  bright  future 
is  clouded.  It  is  a comfort  to  know  that  God 
reigns.  His  time  will  come  sooner  or  later,  and 
then,  without  doubt,  there  will  be  a glorious  dis- 
play of  infinite  grace.” 

The  following  incident  will  he  noticed  with 
interest. 

“ June  28.  Another  bright  and  beautiful  day. 
Had  a long  conversation  with  a young  Jew,  who 
is  serving  on  hoard  as  a common  sailor.  I had 
heard  of  him  through  Mr.  Wood,  the  chaplain. 
He  can  speak  several  modern  languages,  and 
appears  to  have  a fair  English  education.  He 
was  born  in  Bavaria,  hut  has  resided  for  many 
years  in  the  United  States.  Losses  in  business 
drove  him  to  sea.  He  told  me  that  the  other 
sailors  were  always  ridiculing  his  efibrts  to  im- 
prove his  mind;  and  therefore  he  was  compelled 
to  write  and  read  late  in  the  evening,  when  his 
messmates  had  retired.  Because  of  this  banter- 


224 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


ing  he  had  destroyed  two  volumes  of  a journal 
which  he  had  been  keeping.  ‘Now,’  said  he, 
‘I  Avrite  in  Chaldean,  and  that  is  a language 
which  they  cannot  understand.’ 

“ Gradually  I drew  him  into  a conversation 
upon  Christianity,  and  he  spoke  candidly  about 
his  Jewish  faith.  He  professes  to  have  examined 
the  claims  of  Jesus  to  be  the  Messiah,  and  yet 
remains  unconvinced.  I tried  to  set  before  him 
some  of  the  evidences  of  Jesus’  Messiahship,  and 
he  listened  with  great  apparent  interest.  I hope 
to  have  other  opportunities  for  conversation  with 
him  before  leaving  the  ship.” 

The  journal  of  “June  30th,”  mentions  some 
interesting  incidents: — “Within  the  last  three 
days  several  bodies  of  foreigners  have  floated  by. 
Poor  fellows  ! who  knows  what  mother  or  sister 
or  wife  may  suffer  when  the  sad  tidings  of  last 
Saturday’s  defeat  reach  England’s  happy  homes ! 
Many  hearts  will  bleed,  and  ask,  why  all  this 
bloodshed. 

“ One  thing  worth  mentioning  is  the  lowness 
of  the  barometer  at  this  anchorage.  Although 
the  weather  has  been  fine,  the  mercury  seldom 
rises  above  29°  60'  Once  or  twice  it  sank  so 


INTERESTING  CASE  AGAIN. 


225 


low  that  a storm  was  anticipated,  but  rose  again 
without  any  wind.  Frequent  gusts  of  wind,  some 
of  them  amounting  to  a squall,  sweep  over  our 
anchorage,  lashing  the  sea  into  a sudden  fury, 
and  then  abruptly  ceasing. 

“Our  chief  annoyance  is  the  flies.  The  cabin 
is  full  of  them.  They  crawl  into  one’s  ears  and 
eyes  and  mouth  and  nostrils.  At  meals  they 
take  their  full  share  of  everything  on  the  table. 
They  wake  us  at  daylight  every  morning,  and 
then  keep  us  awake  as  effectually  as  any  alarm 
clock.  Hue  speaks  of  sparrows  as  the  cosmopo- 
lites of  the  feathered  tribes.  The  flies  seem  to 
be  the  cosmopolites  of  the  insect  creation. 

“July  5.  Just  at  dusk  a note  was  put  into  my 
hands  by  an  orderly.  Its  contents  gave  me  more 
pure  pleasure  than  I can  express.  The  young 
Jew  mentioned  June  28th  is  the  writer.  A few 
extracts  will  exhibit  his  spiritual  state.  ‘ Since 
those  perfect,  true  words  which  you  had  the 
kindness  to  communicate  to  me  my  whole  system 
has  undergone  an  entire  change.  Although 
born,  raised  and  educated  in  the  religion  of  my 
forefathers,  and  always  firmly  believing  in  the 
precepts  which  their  experience  has  shown  me,  I 


■226 


l-'IVE  YEAUS  IN  CHINA. 


begin  now,  and  only  since  my  conversation  with 
you,  to  believe  that  there  is  still  something  miss- 
ing to  fill  that  cup  of  blessedness  in  the  human 
soul,  which  only  pure  and  true  religion  can  be- 
stow. Certainly,  sir,  I do  not  mean  to  bring 
into  consideration  any  worldly  enjoyments  what- 
soever, for  my  firm  belief  is  that  not  a small  por- 
tion of  heavenly  peace  is  wanted  for  the  perform- 
ance of  a peaceable  pilgrimage  through  this  vale 
of  tears.  Encouraged  by  your  good  advice,  I 
found  that  the  wants  of  a peaceable  existence 
for  me  have  been  the  faith  and  true  belief  in  the 
true  religion. 

“‘I  therefore  declare  to  you  hereby  openly, 
with  my  own  free  will  and  accord,  that  the  heav- 
enly arrow  aimed  by  you  at  my  spiritual  eye, 
has  come  home  to  its  place  of  destination,  and 
that  the  veil  of  doubts  which  overhangs  my  mind 
has  totally  vanished,  and  I perceive  nothing  but 
a true  shining  light  in  the  word  of  the  Saviour 
of  mankind.’ 

“I  do  not  feel  prepared  to  pass  my  opinion 
upon  this  letter  or  its  author  at  present.  I ivill 
have  further  conversation  with  the  young  man 
before  I give  him  my  full  crnfidence. 


THE  JEW  CONVEhfED. 


227 


“July  6th.  This  evening  had  a long  and  inter- 
esting conversation  with  the  young  Jew  men- 
tioned yesterday.  So  far  as  I can  judge, he  is 
sincere  in  his  professions  of  faith  in  Jesus,  as  the 
Messiah,  the  Son  of  God.  Of  course  his  views  of 
many  subjects  are  vague  and  ill-defined.  He  is 
reading  the  New  Testament,  and  is  rejoiced  to 
find  how  exactly  Christ  answers  to  the  predictions 
of  the  Old.  I exhorted  him  to  pray  much  for 
spiritual  enlightenment,  and  he  promised  to  do 


228 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


CHAPTER  XVIIl. 

Conference  with  the  Governor — Arrangements  Completed — Jour- 
ney to  the  Capital. 

Several  days  were  now  spent  in  getting  the 
royal  permission  from  Peking  for  the  contem- 
plated visit  of  the  Embassy,  and  in  making  the 
preliminary  arrangements.  In  one  of  the  inter- 
views on  shore,  where  these  matters  were  dis- 
cussed, there  was  present  a young  Chinese,  who 
sat  near  the  chief  speaker,  but  took  no  part  in 
the  deliberations.  He  had  been  educated  in  the 
Episcopal  Mission  at  Shanghai,  had  been  to  Eng- 
land and  America,  and  of  course  could  understand 
and  speak  the  languages  of  the  barbarians.  The 
year  before  he  had  gone  up  there  with  Mr.  Wade, 
but  left  him  at  Tientsin  to  enter  the  service  of 
his  country.  Three  days  later  the  young  man 
came  out  and  visited  the  Americans.  Of  this 
interview  Mr.  Aitchison  writes, — “Once  on  ship- 
board he  threw  off  much  of  his  former  reserve. 


A friendly  party  in  China, 


Fine  Years  in  China. 


p.  22g 


'/ft-^yi '^4  * •.-'•*  Ml 


'-VV-.r.:  I f::u, 

M , ;.  I.  .::  iiuv 

i ; , M»:AneO 

•i.  -"iJ  ^i-.rf  r-M 
().  ■ W - -•’■> 

^ WlVf-4t  .'•  ■»  i 

4^fc.  ' T iT 

vT.?  ,1.  .'-.tlfo,  it?-;f»u/r‘- jfi  r'l  II 

f il  l .}  . -Iiirtwwi’i  • 

” jy'  lo 


■>'j  ' 


AN  ENLIGHTENED  CHINESE. 


229 


and  I had  a long  and  interesting  conversation 
with  him  in  English.  He  talks  the  language  of 
Canaan,  and  I cannot  hut  hope  that  a spark  of 
grace  has  been  kindled  in  his  heart.  In  his  pres- 
ent situation  he  is  compelled  to  be  very  cautious. 
The  least  imprudence  might  cost  him  his  head. 
He  hopes  to  accomplish  much  in  bringing  his 
countrymen  to  adopt  both  the  civilization  and  the 
religion  of  Western  nations. 

“In  speaking  of  the  Trinity,  a subject  which 
came  up  while  noticing  the  difference  between  the 
Roman  and  the  Greek  churches,  he  employed  the 
following  illustration.  The  Son  is  like  i\\e  flame 
which  you  see,  the  Father  is  like  the  substance 
from  which  the  flame  froceeds,  the  Spirit  is  like 
the  heat  which  you  feel  but  cannot  see.  Though 
this  language  fails  to  express  the  real  distinction 
in  the  persons  of  the  Godhead,  it  is  still  rather 
remarkable  as  coming  from  a Chinese  in  such 
circumstances.  For  a year  he  has  had  no  inter- 
course with  any  foreigner,  nor  does  he  dare  to 
keep  by  him  any  book  produced  in  the  West. 
With  ill-suppressed  anxiety  he  proposed  the  in- 
quiry, ‘ On  what  conditions  will  the  English  be 
likely  to  make  peace  with  us  under  existing  cir- 
20 


230 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


cumstances  ?’  Mr.  Martin  expressed  my  own 
opinion  in  replying,  ‘Only  by  removing  the  bar- 
riers at  the  mouth  of  the  Pei-ho  and  permitting 
at  least  two  gun-boats  to  proceed, M’ith  their  min- 
ister, to  Tientsin.’  A letter  of  introduction  from 
Mr.  Syle  of  Shanghai,  which  one  of  the  officers 
presented  to  him,  he  did  not  dare  to  keep,  but  re- 
quested me  to  carry  it  back  to  its  author,  and 
beg  him  to  preserve  it  till  under  other  circum- 
stances he  could  safely  receive  it. 

“July  17.  Sabbath.  To-day,  instead  of  the 
sermon  at  the  time  of  the  service,  we  had  a mis- 
sionary meeting.  Dr.  Williams,  Mr.  Martin,  and 
myself  being  the  speakers.  I commenced  with 
a statement  of  the  moral  and  religious  con- 
dition of  China  without  the  gospel ; Mr.  Martin 
followed  with  some  facts  illustrating  the  success 
of  missionary  labors  even  in  this  empire  ; and  Dr. 
Williams  closed  by  contrasting  the  present  aspect 
of  the  work  with  what  it  was  when  he  arrived 
here  twenty-six  years  ago.  The  chaplain  expressed 
his  satisfaction  with  the  meeting,  and  it  is  to  be 
hoped  that  many  will  remember  what  Avas  said, 
and  profit  thereby. 

“July  18.  This  evening  had  another  interesting 


GETTING  STARTED. 


231 


conversation  with  the  young  Jew.  He  tells  me 
there  are  one  or  two  of  his  shipmates  who  are 
more  or  less  interested  in  the  subject  of  religion. 
It  would  be  worth  while  to  have  undertaken  the 
present  journey,  if  even  one  immortal  soul  should 
thereby  receive  serious  impressions  which  should 
result  in  conversion.” 

At  last  the  arrangements  for  the  embassy  were 
completed.  Twenty-five  chariots  were  provided 
for  the  land  journey,  five  of  which  were  to  be  of 
a superior  kind,  for  Mr.  Ward,  the  Commodore, 
and  other  chief  members  of  the  expedition.  On 
reaching  the  river,  a distance  of  forty  miles,  a 
sufiicient  number  of  boats  were  to  be  in  readiness, 
three  of  which  were  to  be  larger  than  the  rest. 
Two  ofiScers  were  appointed  to  conduct  the  Em- 
bassy to  the  capital.  On  the  morning  of  the 
20th  of  July  they  started,  the  company  consisting 
of  twenty  foreigners,  three  Chinese  scribes,  and 
seven  Chinese  servants. 

“Once  out  of  the  village,”  says  Mr.  Aitchison, 
“we  entered  a country  perfectly  flat  and  barren. 
As  far  as  the  eye  could  see,  there  was  nothing  to 
break  the  monotony  except  the  grave-mounds. 
For  several  miles  there  was  visible  hardly  a blade 


232 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


of  grass.  Here  we  met  a party  of  cavalry  gal- 
loping in  the  direction  of  Peitang.*  They  eyed  us 
curiously  as  they  passed.  Each  warrior  seemed 
to  form  a component  part  of  the  animal  he  rode. 
Across  his  back  was  slung  a match-lock,  and  at 
the  saddle-bow  his  knapsack.  Some  carried  bow 
and  arrows,  others  pistols,  and  still  others  swords. 
The  next  few  miles  presented  a more  agreeable 
appearance,  being  covered  with  green  grass  and 
weeds,  but  there  were  no  signs  of  cultivation.  On 
we  rode  over  this  dreary  waste,  sometimes  sink- 
ing a foot  deep  in  the  sticky  mud. 

“ Each  chariot  was  drawn  by  two  stout  mules 
in  the  manner  we  call  tandem,  except  that  the 
forward  mule  keeps  a little  to  the  right  of  the 
hind  one,  and  the  traces  are  attached  to  the 
wagon  just  in  front  of  the  axle-tree.  The  driver 
sits  in  the  front  of  the  carriage,  with  his  feet 
dangling  down  almost  to  the  ground.  He  is 
busily  occupied  almost  the  whole  time  either  in 
beating  his  team  or  shouting  at  them.  In  his 
right  hand  he  flourishes  a whip  with  a handle  at 
least  five  feet  long,  and  a lash  to  correspond. 

“Our  caravan  presented  quite  a picturesque 
appearance  as  it  wound  over  the  grassy  plain. 


* The  village  just  left. 


FEELINGS  CHANGING. 


233 


Scattered  here  and  there  among  the  chariots  were 
Chinese  officers  on  horse-hack,  who  galloped  back 
and  forth  as  occasion  required,  their  red  hair 
plumes  floating  away  behind  the  conical  caps 
which  the  rites  compel  them  to  wear.  About 
noon  we  arrived  at  a village  called  Kiunliang- 
choong,  where  by  previous  arrangement  we  were 
to  eat  our  noon-day  meal.  Numbers  of  officers 
small  and  great  welcomed  us,  and  in  a very  short 
time  we  were  busily  employed  in  disposing  of  a 
most  sumptuous  dinner.  There  was  no  end  to 
meats,  vegetables,  and  fruits. 

“I  am  happy  to  say  that  before  night  closed  in, 
a great  transformation  had  taken  place  in  the  feel- 
ings and  opinions  of  many  of  our  party.  Hith- 
erto they  have  regarded  the  Chinese  with  the  ut- 
most aversion,  believing  them  guilty  of  every  vice, 
and  destitute  of  every  virtue.  This  single  day’s 
experience  has  convinced  them  of  their  mistake. 
They  are  ready  to  confess  that  the  Chinese  have 
many  qualities  which  render  them  worthy  of  re- 
spect and  affection.  The  kindness  we  have  re- 
ceived certainly  could  not  well  he  surpassed.  All 
the  arrangements  proved  their  desire  to  gratify  our 
tastes  in  every  particular.  Inscriptions  were 
20  » 


234 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


pasted  over  the  doors  and  on  the  walls  which  in- 
dicate the  sentiments  entertained  toward  us. 
Among  these,  many  of  which  are  difficult  of 
translation,  were  the  following  ; — 

“ In  large  characters  opposite  the  principal  en- 
trance were  the  words,  ‘ Great  Joy  !’  On  a door, 
‘Receive  all  Heavenly  Happiness !’  On  the  sides 
of  the  door  were  two  sentences,  the  literal  trans- 
lation of  which  was,  ‘Felicitous  Sun,  auspicious 
clouds,’  and  ‘Harmonious  breezes,  sweet  rains.’ 
Over  another  door  was  written,  ‘ Happiness  comes 
from  heaven!’  On  the  opposite  side  of  another, 
‘ Imagination,  like  a great  dragon,  soars  a hun- 
dred feet,’  and  ‘Literature,  like  a good  horse,  is 
vigorous  a thousand  autumns.’  Another  pair  of 
sentences,  perfectly  Chinese,  was,  ‘The  virtue  of 
sages  is  like  sweet  wine  ; Heaven’s  grace  en- 
riches ;’  and,  ‘The  words  of  a king  are  like  silken 
sounds;  the  kingdom’s  favors  are  many  1’ 

“We  spent  the  entire  afternoon  in  conversing 
with  our  escort,  and  strolling  about  in  the  imme- 
diate neighborhood.  The  whole  hamlet  had  the 
appearance  of  a fair.  Carts  were  standing  in 
every  direction,  the  mules  feeding  close  by. 
Numbers  of  soldiers  were  guarding  the  baggage, 


ARRIVE  AT  PEITSANG. 


235 


find  -were  anxious  to  guard  us  in  all  our  rambles. 
At  last,  to  our  extreme  relief,  evening  came,  and 
our  official  and  officious  friends  left  us  to  our- 
selves. We  made  up  our  beds  in  the  various 
apartments  that  had  been  assigned  to  us,  and  at 
an  early  hour  retired.  Mr.  Wood  and  myself 
had  poor  accommodations,  but  we  got  some  doors 
for  bedsteads  and  slept  tolerably  well. 

“July  21.  At  daylight  we  were  stii'ring,  and 
by  six  o’clock  on  our  road  to  Peitsang,  or,  ‘North- 
ern Granary,  ’ where  we  take  boats  for  Tung- 
chau,  which  is  distant  from  Peking  only  twelve 
miles.  In  the  course  of  the  morning  we  passed  a 
number  of  small  villages,  the  houses  being  uni- 
versally built  of  mud,  but  so  skillfully  put  to- 
gether that  many  of  them  were  very  neat  in  ap- 
pearance. At  half  past  nine  we  reached  a vil- 
lage called  Si-ti-teu,  where  another  sumptuous 
entertainment,  and  a number  of  officers,  awaited 
our  arrival.  After  resting  here  for  nearly  two 
hours,  we  again  set  forth,  and  about  the  middle 
of  the  afternoon  arrived  at  the  ‘Northern  Gran- 
ary,’ where  a number  of  yellow  flags  directed  us 
to  the  spot  where  we  embark  in  the  boats. 

“ This  day’s  travel  has  been  very  trying  to 


23t)  FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 

many  of  our  party.  Certainly  none  of  us  ever 
received  a jolting  to  compare  with  that  which  fell 
to  our  lot  during  these  last  few  hours.  The  road 
is  in  a most  terrible  condition,  in  many  places 
flooded  with  water  to  the  depth  of  a foot.  The 
face  of  the  country  closely  resembles  that  of  the 
prairie-land  of  the  far  west,  except  that  the  grass 
is  shorter,  and  there  are  no  flowers.  The  poor 
mules  had  a hard  time  of  it.  Once  mine  lay 
down  flat  in  the  midst  of  the  mud  and  water, 
completely  exhausted,  and  frequently  he  seemed 
just  on  the  point  of  falling.  We  passed  a few 
small  hamlets  which  generally  bear  the  name  of 
the  principal  family  residing  there.  The  poor 
people  lined  the  road  to  gaze  upon  us  as  we 
passed.  They  are  not  very  prepossessing  at  flrst 
sight,  but  I presume  would  improve  upon  ac- 
quaintance. Assuredly  I have  seen  nothing  dur- 
ing these  two  days  to  lead  to  the  desire  of  spend- 
ing my  life  here,  rather  than  at  the  south.  Well 
may  the  poor  wretches  whose  lives  are  passed  on 
the  plains  speak  of  Suchau,  and  Ilangchau  as 
Paradise,  and  yet  the  climate  is  delightful;  the 
atmosphere  is  clear  and  bracing,  and  the  people 
seem  contented  with  their  apparently  hard  lot. 


ON  THE  PEIHO. 


237 


“During  these  two  days  we  have  traveled 
about  one  hundred  and  sixty  li,  or  fifty  miles. 
We  now  learn  for  the  first  time  that  this  place  is 
above  Tientsin  about  ten  miles.  It  seems  plain 
that  great  pains  have  been  taken  to  prevent  us 
from  visiting  that  city.  The  reason  is  easy  to 
conjecture.  Probably  the  Chinese  are  unwilling 
to  allow  any  foreigners  to  inspect  the  military 
defences  of  the  place.  Doubtless  their  renowned 
warrior,  Sung-ko-lin-sin,  has  been  spending  his 
energies  principally  in  fortifying  that  neighbor- 
hood. 

“ The  transference  of  ourselves  and  our  lug- 
gage from  the  chariots  to  the  boats  was  the  cause 
of  as  much  hubbub  and  annoyance  as  our  start 
from  the  northern  entrance.  All  felt  rather 
disappointed  at  the  first  sight  of  the  boats  des- 
tined to  be  our  abode  for  the  next  few  days. 
There  are  only  five  in  all,  three  large  ones  and 
two  small,  none  of  them  very  respectable  in  ex- 
ternal appearance  or  internal  arrangements. 

“July  22.  At  daylight  the  gongs  sounded  the 
signal  for  departure,  and  in  an  instant  all  was 
noise  and  apparent  confusion  on  every  boat  of 
our  little  fleet.  Sleep  was  an  impossibility,  and 


238 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


therefore  most  of  us  rose  to  enjoy  the  scene.  It 
■was  not  long  before  we  were  fairly  under  way, 
the  boats  following  each  other  in  lines  on  both 
sides  of  the  stream.  The  boats  of  our  escort  are 
far  more  numerous,  but  smaller  than  our  own. 
Each  is  drawn  by  a number  of  men  who  march 
on  the  bank.  At  the  mast-head  of  that  occupied 
by  his  excellency,  floats  the  beautiful  silk  flag 
belonging  to  the  legation.  In  the  afternoon  the 
yellow  flag  of  the  Imperial  Government  was  also 
hoisted  to  the  same  height,  and  they  flaunted  to- 
gether in  the  breeze  till  night-fall. 

“The  river  is  about  seventy-five  yards  wide. 
It  is  now  quite  full,  with  a very  strong  current, 
the  water  being  thick  with  mud.  The  banks  are 
low,  and  the  adjacent  country  under  good  culti- 
vation. No  hills  or  undulations  are  visible. 
Among  the  chief  productions  I noticed  millet, 
small  rice,  (also  a species  of  millet,)  hemp,  maize, 
sweet  potatoes,  and  almost  every  variety  of  ordi- 
nary  garden  vegetables.  We  passed  many  villa- 
ges, and  one  large  town  called  Yang-tsun.  The 
houses,  with  a very  few  exceptions,  are  built  of 
mud.  In  numerous  places  the  banks  were  lined 
with  eager  multitudes,  gazing  with  bursting  sock- 


ATTENDED  ON  SHORE. 


239 


ets  upon  the  strangers.  There  was,  however,  no 
noise  or  confusion  among  them.  The  dress  of 
but  few  individuals  indicated  scholarship  or 
wealth,  but  most  seemed  well  fed  and  cheerful. 
At  Yang-tsnn  preparations  had  been  made  for  an 
interchange  of  visits  between  our  minister  and 
his  escort,  but  the  crowd  was  so  great  that  the 
ceremony  was  dispensed  rvitli,  and  we  proceeded 
after  a halt  of  less  than  five  minutes. 

“Shortly  after  rising  we  had  a visit  in  our  boat 
from  Li-Lan-Ye,  the  third  officer  of  our  escort. 
He  is  an  easy,  jolly,  good-natured  fellow,  not 
overburdened  with  knowledge,  either  of  foreign 
countries  or  his  own.  He  drank  a cup  of  coffee 
and  smoked  a cigar  with  great  apparent  gusto. 
Like  most  of  our  visitors  he  especially  admired 
the  opera-glasses,  and  never  tired  of  looking 
through  them.  At  breakfast  we  found  ourselves 
minus  all  the  articles  considered  indispensable  to 
that  meal,  but  we  at  last  managed  to  get  a little 
rice,  a few  eggs  and  a cup  of  coffee.  I then 
jumped  ashore  for  a walk,  and  as  was  anticipa- 
ted, a couple  of  petty  officers  soon  joined  me. 
Remonstrance  was  in  vain.  They  had  received 
orders  from  the  ‘great  man’  to  escort  and  pro- 


240 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


tect  me  from  the  stupid  people,  and  they  must 
obey.  I,  however,  continued  and  enjoyed  my 
walk,  without  the  least  annoyance  from  the  people. 
A garden  laid  out  quite  in  foreign  style  particu- 
larly attracted  my  attention.  W ater  was  conveyed 
to  it  from  the  river  by  means  of  a sort  of  windlass. 
I saw  on  the  bank  a sign  board  which,  in  addition 
to  the  common  assurance  of  entertainment  for 
man  and  beast,  informed  the  public  that  the 
keeper  of  the  establishment  was  of  the  Western 
Mohammedan  faith. 

“It  pleases  me  exceedingly  to  watch  the 
changes  taking  place  in  the  feelings  and  opinions 
of  some  of  my  traveling  companions.  Most  of 
them  are  delighted  beyond  measure  with  every 
thing  they  see.  Japan  begins  to  fade  in  their 
vision. 

“Once  or  twice  to-day  we  passed  places  where 
evidently  preparations  had  been  made  to  barri- 
cade the  river  in  case  the  English  should  make 
an  attempt  on  the  capital.  Immense  logs  were 
laid  in  order  on  the  banks,  and  according  to  the 
information  of  the  boatmen,  such  was  the  use  for 
which  they  were  designed. 

“A  striking  thing  in  the  landscape  was  the 


NOISY  SABBATH. 


241 


number  of  mules,  horses,  donkeys,  and  cows. 
They  are  grazing  about  in  every  direction.  On 
the  roads,  which  are  slightly  elevated  above  the 
general  level,  horsemen  and  carts  are  constantly 
passing,  sometimes  singly,  and  sometimes  in  small 
caravans. 

“July  23.  Nothing  new  in  the  scenery  has 
presented  itself  except  a range  of  blue  mountains 
in  the  distance.  I have  been  unable  to  ascertain 
either  their  name  or  their  position.  Some  per- 
sons tell  me  they  are  beyond  the  Great  Wall, 
but  that  can  hardly  be  possible.  By  compass 
they  lie  to  the  north-east  of  us.  We  cannot  but 
wish  that  our  road  lay  along  their  base.  The 
landscape  adjoining  the  river  is  indeed  interest- 
ing, but  monotonous. 

“July  24.  Sunday.  This  day  has  had  but 
little  of  a Sabbath  aspect.  The  countrymen  work 
equally  hard  on  the  banks,  the  crowd  assemble 
to  gaze,  and  the  coolies  make  the  same  noise  as  on 
ordinary  days.  Oh,  when  will  a New  England  or 
Scottish  Sabbath  dawn  on  this  vast  empire?  The 
wmrk  is  one  of  the  greatest  magnitude.  Truly 
nothing  but  Omnipotence  can  accomplish  it. 

“ Though  slowly  approaching  the  capital,  the 
21 


242 


IIVE  YEAKS  I>'  CHIKA. 


country  does  not  improve  in  any  respect ; the 
banks  are  low,  the  villages  are  few,  and  the  peo- 
ple as  poor  as  in  the  neighborhood  of  Tientsin. 
Indeed  nothing  indicates  our  proximity  to  one  of 
the  chief  cities  of  the  world,  unless  it  be  the  num- 
ber of  grain-bearing  junks  which  we  pass  every 
few  hours.  These  go  in  fleets,  one  of  which,  I 
learned,  had  been  about  four  months  on  the  road 
from  Ilo-nan. 

“July  25.  Yesterday  and  to-day  we  have  been 
favored  with  showers  of  rain  which  have  contri- 
buted to  keep  the  atmosphere  at  a delightful  tem- 
perature. The  scenei’y  on  the  banks  offers 
nothing  worthy  of  special  remark.  The  same 
blue  hills  lie  in  the  distance,  changing  their  di- 
rection to  every  point  of  the  compass,  as  we  fol- 
low the  windings  of  the  river. 

“ Frequently  the  stream  almost  doubles  back 
upon  itself,  so  that  the  first  boat  sees  the  last 
one  on  its  bow. 

“ July  26.  Early  in  the  morning,  and  two  or 
three  times  during  the  day,  we  passed  barriers 
consisting  of  several  rows  of  piles  driven  into  the 
river  from  bank  to  bank,  only  leaving  a narrow 
passage  for  junks.  Some  of  our  boatmen  afiirm 


KATIVES’  FOOD. 


•243 


that  the  object  of  these  is  to  defend  the  Imperial 
grain  vessels  from  the  ice  in  -winter,  others 
to  prevent  the  approach  of  an  enemy,  {i.  e.  the 
English)  toward  the  capital.  The  land  adjacent 
to  the  river  has  not  risen  perceptibly  during  these 
two  days,  though  it  seems  better  wooded  than  be- 
fore. We  have  passed  many  fleets  of  Imperial 
junks  laden  with  grain,  principally  rice,  wheat, 
and  beans.  These  have  come  from  the  central 
provinces,  and  have  been  three  or  four  months  on 
their  way.  Each  fleet  consists  of  about  twenty 
vessels,  and  is  guarded  by  a petty  ofiicer  with  a 
few  soldiers. 

“We  have  been  much  interested  in  seeing  our 
boat-trackers  devour  the  humble  meals  which  are 
furnished  them.  I have  seen  no  meat  on  their 
table.  They  seem  to  eat  only  ground  millet  made 
into  a sort  of  porridge  or  cake,  and  a little  vege- 
table as  an  accompaniment.  We  ourselves  have 
had  this  millet  porridge  served  up  to  us  for  break- 
fast, and  we  all  pronounced  it  little  inferior  to 
that  made  from  maize. 

“ To  our  great  satisfaction  the  Tungchau  pa- 
goda became  visible  about  the  middle  of  the  af- 
ternoon, this  being  about  the  flfth  day  from  Peit- 


244 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


Bung.  It  was  not.  however,  until  after  dark  that 
we  reached  the  jetty  prepared  for  a landing-place. 
Our  boats  were  all  anchored  side  by  side,  though 
the  operation  was  accompanied  with  a great  up- 
roar. Bronchitis  seems  to  be  a rare  disease 
among  Chinese  boatmen,  especially  here  at  the 
North.  The  evening  has  been  spent  in  making 
preparations  for  our  land  journey  of  twelve  miles, 
and  all  of  us  are  anticipating  with  lively  interest 
the  event  of  to-morrow.” 


AT  PEKING. 


245 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

In  the  Capital — Virtual  Prisoners — Speculations — A few  Keep- 
sakes. 

“ July  27.  Peking  ! Here  we  are,  at  last,  in 
the  capital  of  the  largest  empire  of  the  earth. 
We  entered  the  gate  at  precisely  two  o’clock,  and 
arrived  at  the  house  prepared  for  our  residence 
at  a quarter  before  three. 

“We  left  the  boats  near  the  eastern  gate  of 
Tungchau  at  seven  o’clock  after  a hasty  but  ex- 
cellent breakfast.  Our  chariots  with  single  mules 
were  arranged  on  the  bank  in  the  order  of  pre- 
cedence. The  very  sight  of  these  vehicles  caused 
the  bones  of  the  stoutest  among  us  to  ache. 
However  as  there  was  no  other  resource,  we  were 
soon  jogging  along  the  stone  road  which  conducts 
the  traveler  through  Tungchau  to  Peking. 
We  entered  the  east,  and  soon  emerged  from  the 
west  gate  of  this  inferior  department.  I was 
struck  with  the  badness  of  the  road,  the  fineness 

of  the  shops,  and  the  frequency  of  the  taverns. 
21  » 


246 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


^lultitudcs  lined  the  road  as  our  cavalcade  moved 
onwards.  Once  fairly  in  the  city,*  I leaped  from 
my  cart,  and  advanced  on  foot.  The  people 
made  no  noise  or  disturbance.  Few  followed  me 
even  for  a short  distance,  but  all  gazed  with  open 
eyes  and  mouth. 

“ Having  passed  out  of  the  west  gate  we  found 
ourselves  upon  a broad  causeway,  elevated  two 
or  three  feet  above  the  surrounding  country, 
paved  with  stones,  most  of  which  were  about  four 
feet  long,  two  and  a half  wide,  and  one  foot  thick. 
These  were  broken  in  many  places,  and  worn 
away  in  others,  so  that  the  carriages  seemed 
ready  to  overturn  or  break  in  pieces  at  every 
foot  of  their  progress.  Within  a very  few  minutes 
most  of  the  embassy  had  vacated  their  close  carts, 
and  were  either  pedestrianizing  or  jogging  along 
on  little  donkeys  hired  from  men  who  chanced  to 
be  proceeding  in  the  same  direction,  and  thus  we 
advanced  almost  to  the  suburbs  of  the  great  city. 

“ The  surrounding  country  offered  a very  pleas- 
ing prospect,  being  diversified  not  indeed  with 
hill  and  valley,  but  with  clumps  of  trees,  fields 
of  millet,  ornamental  pavilions,  honorary  gate- 
ways, sepulchres,  hamlets,  and  all  the  other  ac- 

• Tungchau. 


VARIED  SCENES. 


247 


companiments  of  an  ordinary  Chinese  landscape. 
On  the  road  itself  there  was  much  to  interest  us. 
We  either  met  or  overtook  multitudes  going  to, 
or  coming  from  the  capital.  There  were  lines 
of  camels  carrying  either  coal  or  grain,  ugly  from 
the  want  of  hair,  the  breadth  of  their  feet,  and 
their  awkward  manner  of  carrying  their  heads 
and  necks.  There  were  wheelbarrows  laden  with 
bags  of  refuse  from  the  hemp  plant,  after  the  oil 
has  been  pressed  from  its  beans,  some  drawn  by 
donkeys  and  some  pushed  by  men ; there  were 
donkeys,  and  mules  and  horses,  with  their  vari- 
ously dressed  riders,  passing  at  every  rate  of 
speed  to  and  fro.  There  too  were  our  escort, 
mounted  on  fine  animals,  the  tails  of  biped 
and  quadruped  alike  floating  in  the  gentle 
breeze. 

“ From  the  neighboring  hamlets,  multitudes 
flocked  to  see  the  passing  show,  among  them  not 
a few  damsels,  whose  large  feet  betrayed  their 
Tartar  origin.  The  day  has  been  intensely  hot, 
though  clouds  favored  us  with  their  leaden  screens. 
Now  and  then  we  halted  under  a wayside  tree, 
and  drank  the  pure  cool  water  freshly  drawn 
from  a neighboring  well  or  spring.  For  half  an 


:248  FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 

hour  we  all  halted  for  tea  and  refreshments  at  an 
old  Monastery,  called  Monastery  of  the  Compas- 
sionate Clouds.  The  priests  received  us  cordially 
and  entertained  us  hospitably,  setting  before  us 
tea,  watermelons,  and  Indian  corn  boiled  in  the 
ear.  From  this  point  many  of  our  party  pro- 
ceeded on  horse-back,  or  mule-back,  or  donkey- 
back,  to  the  next  halting-place,  about  three  miles 
from  the  city  gate,  where  our  cavalcade  was  to 
form  in  regular  order  for  entering  the  city. 

“During  the  last  stage  of  our  journey  we  were 
the  center  of  attraction  to  tens  of  thousands  of 
gaping  spectators.  The  avenue  by  which  we  ap- 
proached the  gate  is  certainly  in  many  respects 
worthy  of  its  place.  At  least  a hundred  feet 
wide,  it  is  lined  with  magnificent  shops,  with  here 
and  there  an  honorary  portal  interspersed.  One 
of  these  portals  was  of  immense  proportions,  and 
elaborately  carved  and  decorated.  But  the  city 
gate  itself,  and  the  stupendous  tower  or  bastion- 
like structure  which  surmounts  it,  quite  surpassed 
my  expectations.  The  adjoining  wall  too  is  very 
imposing  in  its  height  and  apparent  solidity.  The 
space  between  the  first  and  second  entrance  of 
the  gate  is  quite  spacious,  and  is  perfectly  com 


INSIDE  THE  GATE. 


249 


manded  by  the  towers  over  both.  The  whole  is 
built  of  large  blue-colored  bricks. 

“There  was  a delay  of  a few  minutes  just  be- 
fore we  passed  through  the  second  entrance.  My 
heart  beat  quick  at  the  very  possibility  of  being 
stopped  just  as  the  dream  of  years  was  on  the 
point  of  realization.  But  no  ! after  a few  horse- 
men had  hurried  past,  and  the  policemen  had 
flourished  their  whips  around  the  shoulders  of  the 
eager  and  too  forward  spectators,  the  cavalcade 
was  again  in  motion,  and  we  passed  amid  a rush 
of  exciting  thoughts  into  the  real,  genuine 
Peking. 

“ One  of  the  flrst  objects  that  attracted  my  at- 
tention was  a Russian  seated  on  his  horse  in  the 
thickest  of  the  crowd.  Though  di-essed  in  Euro- 
pean costume,  his  presence  seemed  to  excite  no 
surprise.  Perhaps  our  cavalcade  divided  the 
attention  which  otherwise  might  have  been  paid 
to  him.  After  a ride  of  a little  more  than  a 
mile  in  the  city,  we  reached  our  present  abode. 
Our  quarters  are  capacious  and  airy,  but  not  very 
well  furnished.  The  apartments  are  all  on  the 
ground  floor.  The  principal  court-yard  is  shaded 
with  matting  laid  upon  a framework  erected  over 


250 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


it.  This  shades  the  area  below,  and  contributes 
greatly  to  our  comfort. 

“Until  night  closed  in,  all  of  us  were  busily 
occupied  in  attending  to  the  luggage,  and  arrang- 
ing our  apartments.  Mr.  Martin  and  myself 
have  secured  a quiet,  retired  room  quite  removed 
from  the  noise  and  bustle  of  the  ‘dusty  world,’ 
and  here  we  hope  to  spend  many  a pleasant  hour 
of  our  sojourn  in  the  capital.  Quite  a sense  of 
relief  stole  over  us  as  soon  as  our  premises  were 
fairly  vacated  by  the  score  of  officials,  who  had 
been  surrounding  us  from  the  hour  we  set  out 
this  morning.  We  had  our  usual  season  of  social 
prayer  before  retiring  to  rest,  and  I trust  felt 
emotions  of  true  gratitude  on  reviewing  the  way 
by  which  God  has  led  us  since  leaving  Shanghai. 

“ July  28.  The  officers  of  every  grade  have  left 
us  to  ourselves  during  the  entire  day.  Not  one 
of  them  has  been  near  us.  There  have  been 
various  opinions  expressed  on  their  motives  in 
this  line  of  conduct.  The  explanation  that  most 
accords  with  my  own  opinion  and  feeling  is,  that 
our  friends  with  true  delicacy  wish  to  give  us  a 
fair  opportunity  to  rest  and  recruit  ourselves 
aft.or  the  fatigues  of  our  recent  journey  Some 


ACCOMMODATIONS  AND  ATTENDANTS.  251 


think  that  they  are  puzzled  to  know  how  to  treat 
us,  and  are  taking  time  for  thought  and  delibera- 
tion. I can  easily  believe  that  our  recent  escort 
and  our  Shanghai  friends,  Kwei-liang  and  Hwa- 
sha-na,  who  arrived  three  days  ago,  have  been 
taking  counsel  together  both  respecting  the  past, 
present  and  future.  We  are  all  curious  to  know 
the  line  of  policy  which  is  to  be  pursued.  I trust 
it  will  be  a liberal  and  not  a restrictive  one. 
After  coming  so  far,  it  would  be  a pity  to  return 
Avitbout  seeing  some  of  the  Avonders  which  such  a 
city  must  present  to  the  eye  of  a stranger  from 
the  Avest. 

“Chinese  servants  abound  in  all  parts  of  our 
premises.  They  are  respectful  and  tolerably 
efficient.  It  is  to  be  hoped  the  result  Avill  prove 
them  to  be  honest.  Mr.  Martin  and  myself  have 
tw’o  set  apart  for  our  special  accommodation. 
They  sit  outside  of  our  door  by  day  and  sleep 
there  by  night.  Anything  we  Avant  done,  they 
are  prompt  to  attend  to  it.  Others  are  stationed 
in  each  court-yard  ready  for  any  summons. 

“ Everything  Ave  desire  in  the  Avay  of  provisions 
is  promptly  furnished  on  our  requisition.  Each 
evening  a list  of  articles  is  to  be  handed  to  the 


252 


FIVE  FEARS  IN  CHINA, 


purveyor-general,  and  the  next  morning  they 
will  be  forthcoming.  Two  things  which  are 
luxuries  in  China  can  be  obtained  here  in  abun- 
dance, viz:  ice  and  milk.  The  latter  article  is 
in  extensive  use  among  the  Tartars. 

“This  day  has  been  very  sultry,  although  the 
thermometer  has  only  risen  to  85°.  Most  of  the 
gentlemen  have  been  making  every  eflFort  to  keep 
cool,  but  without  much  success.  On  examining 
the  position  of  our  quarters,  I find  that  they  are 
situated  in  the  north-east  corner  of  the  inner  city, 
in  a lane  called  ‘Old  Prince  Hall;’  or  No.  13. 
This  edifice  formerly  belonged  to  an  imperial 
subject,  but  was  afterwards  confiscated  to  the 
government. 

“July  29.  This  morning,  soon  after  breakfast, 
Sih,  former  Taoutai  of  Shanghai,  now  chief  judge 
of  Kiang-Soo,  made  his  appearance  at  our  abode. 
He  came  to  the  capital  somewhat  in  advance 
of  the  Imperial  commissioners,  Kwei-liang  and 
Hwa-sha-na.  Doubtless  he  is  regarded  as  a 
strong  pillar  of  the  anti-foreign  party,  and  is  here 
for  the  purpose  of  defeating  the  ends  we  have  in 
view.  Every  interview  in  which  he  bears  a part 
proves  him  to  be  the  possessor  both  of  sagacity 


PROPOSAL  OF  COURT  CEREMONY.  253 


and  influence.  His  presence  at  court  does  not 
augur  well  for  our  success  in  negotiation.  His 
object  to-day  was  to  arrange  a meeting  to-mor- 
row between  our  minister  and  the  Chinese  com- 
missioners. To  our  surprise  he  broached  the  sub- 
ject of  an  interview  with  the  Emperor,  and  the 
performance  of  the  ceremony  (three  kneelings 
and  nine  prostrations)  as  the  necessary  condition 
of  said  interview. 

“What  his  real  motive  in  making  this  ridicu- 
lous proposition  is,  it  is  impossible  to  determine. 
Perhaps  he  thinks  that  Mr.  Ward  might  without 
particular  thought  conform  to  the  court-ceremo- 
nial, and  thus  flatter  celestial  pride.  More  likely 
he  hopes  to  gain  his  point  of  breaking  off  all  in- 
tercourse with  us,  by  proposing  conditions  which 
he  is  assured  we  cannot  accept.  However,  to- 
morrow’s interview  may  throw  more  light  on  the 
matter.  It  was  agreed  according  to  the  special 
request  of  the  Chinese  ministers,  that  only  four 
persons  should  proceed  to  the  contemplated  meet- 
ing. These  are  to  be  Mr.  Ward  and  his  brother. 
Dr.  Williams  and  Mr.  Martin. 

“ The  weather  continues  moderately  warm,  the 
thermometer  not  rising  above  90°. 

22 


254 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


“July  30.  At  lOJ  o’clock  the  four  gentlemen 
named  yesterday  proceeded  under  the  guidanee 
of  several  officers  to  the  place  of  meeting,  tvhich 
was  near  the  north-west  corner  of  the  Imperial 
city,  in  an  edifice  called  the  Kia-hing-sz  They 
were  received  in  magnificent  style  by  Kwei,  Hwa, 
and  Sih,  attended  by  a host  of  inferior  manda- 
rins, adorned  Avith  buttons  indicating  various 
grades.  Business  Avas  discussed  over  a dinner 
which  was  sufficient  for  a hundred  epicures, 
though  only  seven  persons  had  places  at  the  table. 
The  principal  topic  was  the  intervieAV  Avith  his 
Imperial  majesty,  and  the  ceremony  of  ‘knocking 
heads.’ 

“ It  appears  that  KAvei  was  less  conciliatory 
and  urbane  than  at  Shanghai.  It  Avas  even  inti- 
mated, that  the  recent  event  at  Ta-koo  should 
prove  a warning  to  any  nation,  that  dared  to  set 
itself  in  opposition  to  the  middle  kingdom.  The 
gentlemen  returned  at  three  o’clock  under  a burn- 
ing sun,  from  the  effects  of  AA’hich  they  have  suf- 
fered more  or  less  all  day.  They  rode  on  horse- 
back. 

“ Our  situation  is  becoming  daily  more  irksome. 
Hitherto  our  own  Chinese  servants  have  been 


SITUATION  BECOMINO  IRKSOME. 


255 


permitted  to  go  out  at  their  pleasure ; now,  how- 
ever, all  egress  is  forbidden.  Only  my  teacher, 
IIoo,  still  rejoices  in  his  liberty.  An  exception 
is  made  in  his  favor  on  the  ground  of  his  being  a 
northerner,  but  chiefly  through  the  influence  of  a 
petty  oflicer  at  the  gate,  who  is  a native  of  the 
same  province  with  himself. 

“We  are  all  wondering  why  the  Russians  have 
not  come  near  us.  It  may  be  that  they  stand  on 
a point  of  Eastern  etiquette,  which  requires  the 
last  comer  to  pay  the  first  visit.  The  more  prob- 
able explanation  is,  that  the  Chinese  authorities 
will  not  permit  them  to  follow  their  own  inclina- 
tion in  the  matter.  And  yet  it  seems  strange 
that  the  Russians  should  allow  themselves  to  be 
thus  restricted. 

“ The  principal  fruits  furnished  to  us  thus  far 
are  apples,  plums,  pears,  peaches,  and  water-mel- 
ons. The  last  only  can  compare  in  flavor  with 
home  fruit. 

“ I succeeded  in  obtaining  to-day, through  Hoo, 
three  pieces  of  Peking  bronze-work,  not  very 
handsome,  but  still  valuable.  One  represents  a 
Stag  on  which  a man  is  mounted.  The  other  two 
are  a pair  of  birds  with  long  legs  and  necks,  prob- 


256 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA, 


ably  a species  of  crane.  If  on  Monday  we  should 
be  compelled  to  take  our  departure  suddenly,  I 
shall  carry  away  some  memorial  of  this  visit. 

“ How  strange  that  Saturday  evening  finds  me 
in  this  mighty  capital,  beneath  the  shadow  of  a 
throne,  whose  occupant  rules  over  one-third  of 
the  human  race  ! It  seems  like  a dream  of  the 
night. 

“ July  31.  Sabbath,  A calm,  delicious,  quiet 
day.  So  still  have  we  been  in  our  quarters  that 
one  could  have  imagined  himself  in  a retired 
country  village  of  New  England.  But  alas  ! no 
church  bells  were  heard  calling  the  Lord’s  people 
to  their  solemn  assemblies.  We  knew  that  all 
around  us  were  the  hum  of  business  and  the  whirl 
of  pleasure  as  on  other  days.  God,  however,  re- 
ceived the  homage  of  some  sincere  souls  even 
here.  At  eleven  o’clock  we  met  in  our  dining- 
room, and  united  in  prayer  and  praise  to  God,  the 
Father,  the  Son,  and  the  Holy  Ghost,  Rev.  Mr, 
Wood,  the  chaplain,  preached  an  appropriate  ser- 
mon from  the  words,  ‘ And  hath  broken  down  the 
middle  wall  of  partition  between  us.’  Eph.  ii.  14. 
In  the  afternoon  Mr.  Ward,  Dr.  Williams,  and 
myself  spent  two  hours  in  reading  aloud  and  con- 


LONELINESS  AND  LONGINGS. 


257 


versing  about  the  First  Epistle  of  Timothy.  This 
evening  we  had  quite  a number  present  at  wor- 
ship. Each  night  of  our  worship  has  added  one 
or  more  to  our  praying  circle.  After  the  regular 
exercises  we  united  in  singing,  ‘ Glory  to  Thee, 
my  God,  this  night,’  and  ‘From  Greenland’s  icy 
mountains.’  Oh!  how  vividly  and  sadly  were 
things  of  the  past  brought  to  my  recollection. 
Oh ! that  I could  again  hear  in  the  sweet  songs 
of  Zion  the  dear  voices  which  now  echo  only 
through  the  halls  of  memory  ! Truly  in  circum- 
stances like  these, 

‘I  feel  like  one  who  treads  alone 
Some  banquet-hall  deserted, 

Whose  lights  are  fled,  whose  garlands  dead. 

And  all  but  he  departed.’ 

“ With  what  unutterable  longings  do  I antici- 
pate the  joyful  day  when  long-severed  ties  shall 
he  reunited,  and  neither  death  nor  distance  shall 
he  permitted  to  interrupt  the  hallowed  intercourse 
of  friendship  ! That  day  may  yet  be  distant,  and 
I therefore  pray  for  grace  to  wait  its  coming  pa- 
tiently, and  to  fill  the  intervening  space  with 
works  of  piety  and  usefulness. 

“August  1.  Mr.  Martin  and  myself  received  a 
22  * 


258 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


visit  from  the  officers,  the  one  with  a blue,  tlie 
other  with  a crystal  ball.  The  former  commands 
the  guard  at  four  of  the  city  gates.  They  showed 
a fair  amount  of  intelligence  in  conversation. 
What  their  precise  object  was  could  not  be  ascer- 
tained. Probably  it  was  to  get  a look  at  our  in- 
terior arrangements.  We  showed  them  various 
foreign  articles,  with  which  they  seemed  pleased. 

“ Aug.  2.  Kwei,  Hwa,  and  Sih  returned  the  visit 
of  Mr.  Ward,  and  renewed  the  discussion  which 
was  commenced  at  the  previous  interview.  They 
arrived  at  eleven  o’clock  in  chariots,  Kwei’s  being 
different  from  those  in  ordinary  use  in  having  the 
wheels  quite  at  the  hinder  end.  After  a long 
and  warm  discussion,  at  which  only  our  minister. 
Dr.  Williams,  Mr.  Ward’s  brother,  and  Mr.  Mar- 
tin were  present,  all  retired  to  our  dining-room, 
where  a sumptuous  entertainment  was  prepared 
chiefly  by  themselves.  Sih  himself  came  here 
early  in  the  morning  to  oversee  the  arrangement 
of  the  tables.  At  one  table  sat  those  who  had  been 
engaged  in  the  discussion  with  the  three  Chinese 
commissioners,  at  the  other  all  the  officers  of  Mr. 
Ward’s  suite.  Not  feeling  very  well,  I retired  to 


MANNER  OF  THE  PRESENTATION. 


259 


my  own  room,  and  was  glad  to  enjoy  its  quiet  re- 
pose. 

“ The  subject  of  the  business  part  of  the  inter- 
view was  the  proposed  audience  wdth  the  Empe- 
ror. The  only  difficulty  lay  in  the  matter  of  the 
ceremony.  At  an  early  stage  of  the  debate,  the 
idea  of  asking  our  minister  to  perform  it  in  toto 
was  abandoned.  The  trouble  was  to  ascertain 
what  could  be  substituted  for  it  by  way  of  com- 
promise. Mr.  Ward  took  the  ground  that  he 
would  adhere  to  the  custom  followed  by  the  United 
States  ambassadors  everywhere,  ^.  e.,  that  he 
would  meet  the  Em.peror  as  he  -would  the  Presi- 
dent of  the  United  States,  with  a low  how,  and 
repeat  it  if  necessary.  The  Chinese  were  only 
anxious  to  have  him  promise  to  kneel  on  one 
knee,  were  it  with  ever  so  slight  an  inclination. 
They  proposed  to  express  the  ceremony  by  the 
words,  ‘ slightly  bending  on  one  knee,’  but  Mr. 
Ward  wisely  refused  to  give  his  consent  to  such 
phraseology.  So  the  matter  for  the  present 
ended.  On  Thursday  the  judge  will  come  to  an- 
nounce the  decision  -ndiich  may  be  reached. 

“ While  the  debate  was  going  on  inside,  a few 
officers  of  considerably  high  rank  were  wandering 


260 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


about  tlie  courts  and  passages.  Among  these 
vere  two  who  wore  red  balls,  indicating  the  high 
station  they  held.  One  of  these  was  a youth  of 
seventeen,  the  nephew  of  Ilwa-sha-na.  The 
other  is  a professor  in  the  national  college,  who 
figured  somewhat  prominently  last  year  at  Tient- 
sin, and  who  is  known  among  us  as  the  Viscount. 
I showed  the  former  of  these  a few  foreign  arti- 
cles,  which  I thought  might  interest  him.  His 
manners  were  exceedingly  refined,  and  even 
winning.  We  were  all  much  pleased  with  his 
behaviour.  Should  he  live,  he  will  doubtless  rise 
to  some  of  the  highest  offices  in  the  Empire. 
My  heart  instinctively  yearns  to  see  such  men 
brought  under  the  power  of  the  gospel.  Alas ! 
for  their  ignorance,  and  their  consequent  debase- 
ment ! 

“ The  Chinese  seem  determined  to  prevent  all 
communication  between  us  and  the  external 
world,  except  what  is  carried  on  through  their 
minions,  and  under  their  supervision.  The  posi- 
tion we  occupy  is  degrading  to  us,  as  subjects  of 
a free  and  powerful  kingdom. 

“ August  4.  Sih,  the  judge,  came  according  to 
promise,  and  after  a discussion  of  more  than 


THE  CEREMONY  ARRANGED. 


261 


three  hours  with  Dr.  Williams,  announced  the 
decision  of  his  superiors  to  this  effect : That  Mr. 
Ward  might  have  an  interview  with  the  Emperor, 
only  performing  the  ceremony  usual  with  for- 
eigners when  introduced  to  our  President,  or 
with  our  public  functionaries  when  introduced  to 
foreign  princes.  He  made  a desperate  effort  to 
gain  the  consent  of  Mr.  Ward  to  bow  so  low  that 
the  ends  of  his  fingers  would  touch  the  ground. 
But  this  also  was  flatly  refused.  The  interview 
is  to  take  place  next  Monday;  the  ratified  treaties 
are  to  be  exchanged  on  Tuesday ; Wednesday, 
Thursday  and  Friday  are  to  be  devoted  to  sight- 
seeing, under  the  guidance  of  high  officers ; and 
on  Saturday  morning  we  set  out  on  our  return. 
Such  is  the  pleasing  programme  as  now  arranged; 
but  ‘we  know  not  what  a day  may  bring  forth.’ 

“ This  evening  two  or  more  Russians  came  to 
the  door  of  our  residence  and  demanded  admit- 
tance. The  petty  officers  at  the  door  objected 
stoutly.  Some  of  our  people  came  in  to  inform 
us.  Dr.  Williams  and  myself  went  out  to  meet 
them,  but  they  had  already  gone,  and  every 
Chinaman  at  the  gate  denied  that  any  Russian 
had  been  near.  Such  downright  lies  they  are 


262 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


guilty  of  whenever  it  suits  their  convenience. 
Although  we  have  been  more  than  a week  here 
no  visits  have  been  exchanged  with  the  Russians. 
So  jealous  are  the  authorities  that  they  even  kept 
back  for  several  days  a communication  addressed 
to  Mr.  Ward,  in  answer  to  one  of  his  forwarded 
immediately  on  our  arrival. 

“I  should  not  forget  to  mention  that  the  Chi- 
nese are  fully  aware  of  our  violation  of  neutrality 
on  the  25th  of  June.  It  has  been  distinctly 
spoken  of  in  the  last  two  interviews  with  the 
judge.  Nor  can  all  our  protestations  make  them 
believe  that  some  of  our  force  was  not  joined  with 
the  English  in  the  attempt  to  storm  the  batteries. 
Their  willingness  to  continue  the  negotiations  in 
spite  of  our  error  on  that  day,  shows  that  for 
some  reason,  doubtless  a selfish  one,  they  are 
very  unwilling  to  break  with  us  at  present.” 


DISAPPOINTMENT. 


263 


CHAPTER  XX. 

His  Sickness — Death — Character. 

With  the  closing  "words  of  the  last  chap- 
ter the  journal  of  the  good  man,  "whose  che- 
quered life  we  have  tried  faithfully  to  follow, 
abruptly  terminates ; and  these  were  probably 
the  last  lines  traced  by  his  truthful  hand.  Mani- 
festly he  knew  not  what  was  before  him.  We 
have  already  seen  that  he  had  but  little  hope 
of  effecting  a settlement  as  a missionary  in  the 
capital,  after  tliat  disastrous  repulse  of  the  French 
and  English  at  the  mouth  of  the  Peiho.  And  yet 
it  was  something  to  pa.ss  through  and  survey  the 
land ; something  to  visit  the  greatest  city  in  the 
■world,  the  capital  of  the  greatest  and  oldest  em- 
pire of  the  globe;  something,  with  fellow-mission- 
aries, even  temporarily  to  offer  prayer  and  praise 
to  the  one  only  living  and  true  God  in  that 
stronghold  of  hoary  superstitions  and  degrading 
idolatry,  and  he  held  on  his  way. 


264 


I'lVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


That  journey,  however,  from  the  coast  in  mid- 
summer, was  not  calculated  to  recruit  the  wasted 
energies  of  a partial  invalid,  especially  the  last 
part,  over  that  rough,  broken  pavement,  in  a 
springless,  jolting  cart,  fantastically  called  “ char- 
iot.” In  a letter  from  the  capital,  dated  Aug. 
3d,  one  day  before  the  last  entry  in  the  journal, 
Mr.  Aitchison  complained  more  than  was  his  wont 
of  the  fatigues  and  discomforts  of  this  trip,  and 
spoke  of  the  grateful  shades  under  which  he  sat 
many  times  to  rest  during  the  latter  part  of  the 
way.  One  who  knew  him  well  could  have  seen 
that  he  was  already  sick,  as  rest  was  what  he  sel- 
dom sought  in  other  days.  Work  here,  rest  in 
heaven,  was  all  he  thought  of  while  in  health. 

Mr.  Aitchison  was  sadly  disappointed  in  the 
results  of  this  expedition,  so  far  as  this  world  was 
concerned  ; not  so,  we  are  persuaded,  of  the  next. 
Although  our  Minister  and  suite  were  ostenta- 
tiously conducted,  amidst  thronging  crowds  of 
curious  spectators,  to  the  quarters  prepared  for 
them,  and  there  attended  with  almost  an  endless 
retinue  of  servants  and  officials,  every  want  being 
perfectly  supplied,  yet  they  were  strictly  guarded 


VIRTUAL  PRISONERS. 


265 


and  carefully  confined  to  the  rooms  assigned 
them. 

“From  the  moment  we  passed  the  threshold  of 
our  present  abode  to  the  present  time,  just  one 
week,”  said  Mr.  Aitchison  in  the  letter  of  the  3d 
of  August,  to  which  allusion  has  been  already 
made,  “we  have  not  been  permitted  to  put  out 
foot  outside  the  door,  and  even  our  Chinese  ser- 
vants are  prohibited  from  going  out.  This  is 
nothing  more  than  what  my  previous  acquaint- 
ance with  Chinese  history  and  notions  led  me  to 
expect,  but  notwithstanding  it  is  very  provoking. 
To  remain  a week  within  the  walls  of  a city 
abounding  in  objects  of  surpassing  interest,  with- 
out being  permitted  to  gaze  upon  one,  is  tantaliz- 
ing to  the  last  degree.  I need  not  go  into  a very 
particular  explanation  of  the  causes  which  lead  to 
such  treatment.  Such  is,  and  has  been  from  time 
immemorial,  the  policy  of  China.  She  fears  ev- 
erything external  to  herself.  We  are  in  fact, 
though  not  in  name,  'prisoners.” 

But  God  was  at  the  door  ready  to  knock  off 
the  chains  of  one  of  those  prisoners,  and  set  him 
free  to  range  at  will,  through  a larger  city  and  a 
greater  capital,  even,  than  that  of  “the  Central, 
23 


266 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


Celestial,  Flowery  Kingdom.”  The  very  next 
day  Mr.  Aitchison  was  taken  sick  ; and  yet  he 
thought  not  seriously  so,  and  no  physician  was 
called  for  three  or  four  days.  His  disease  (dys- 
entery) was  not  then  alarming ; but  Mr.  Aitchi- 
son himself  felt  that  the  time  of  his  deliverance 
had  come.  “ His  nervous  system,”  as  Mr.  Wil- 
liams expressed  it,  “sank  more  rapidly  than  his 
muscular.”  Those  who  knew  him  best  will  some- 
what understand  this.  For  five  years  earth  had 
contained  few  attractions  for  him,  heaven  many. 
His  private  letters  made  frequent  mention  of  his 
longings  after  heaven.  Not  that  he  was  unwil- 
ling to  work  just  so  long  as  the  Master  required; 
but  when,  consistently  with  all  the  interests  of 
his  glorious  kingdom,  he  seemed  to  be  often  say- 
ing, the  release  might  come,  the  sooner  the  better. 
He  had  often  expressed  the  conviction,  espe- 
cially after  the  death  of  his  colleague,  Mr.  Macy, 
that  his  life  would  not  be  long,  and  had  spoken 
joyfully  with  some  of  his  dearest  friends  of  the 
blessed  change  for  which  he  hoped.  In  such  a 
state  of  mind  he  gave  specific  directions  on  leav- 
ing Shanghai  on  this  last  expedition,  with  regard 


LEAVING  THE  CAPITAL. 


267 


to  his  effects,  in  case  he  should  not  return — so 
was  his  lamp  always  trimmed  and  burning. 

On  the  11th  of  August,  after  he  had  been  sick 
a week,  the  embassy  left  the  capital  to  return  to 
the  coast.  It  Avas  with  great  reluctance  that 
they  attempted  to  remove  tlie  patient  in  his 
feeble  condition,  and  yet  it  Avas  judged  best,  all 
things  considered,  the  physician  giving  it  as  his 
opinion  that  his  chances  for  recovery  Avould  be 
greatly  enhanced  if  he  should  survive  to  reach 
the  sea.  The  first  twelve  miles  of  the  journey 
Avas  again  over  that  wretched,  broken  pavement ; 
but  Mr.  Aitchison  could  not  noAV  resort  to  the 
alternative  of  Avalking  for  relief.  They  carried 
the  poor,  patient  sufferer  in  a litter,  or  palanquin, 
someAvhat  peculiar  in  construction,  and  borne,  not 
by  men,  but  by  two  mules,  harnessed  into  the 
opposite  ends  of  tAvo  long  poles,  as  into  thills, 
one  preceding  and  one  folloAving  the  occupant. 
This  Avas  perhaps  as  comfortable  a conveyance  as 
could  have  been  devised  for  the  purpose ; but  the 
sufferings  of  the  sick  man  were  very  great,  both 
before,  and  at  the  time  of  his  removal. 

After  reaching  Tungchau  in  this  way,  they 
Avere  three  days  and  four  nights  in  their  boats 


268 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


descending  the  river.  During  all  this  time  every 
attention  and  kindness  possible  in  the  circum- 
stances were  bestowed  upon  the  poor  sufiFerer. 
Dr.  Fox,  the  surgeon  of  the  Powhatan  and  the 
attending  physician  in  the  case,  was  unwearied 
in  his  efforts  for  his  recovery.  Rev.  Mr.  Martin 
watched  over  him  by  day  and  by  night  as  a faith- 
ful nurse  and  friend,  and  afterward  gave  in  the 
North  China  Herald  a minute  account  of  these 
last  days,  to  Avhich  we  are  indebted  for  these  in- 
teresting particulars.  Other  members  also  of  the 
expedition  did  what  they  could;  but  all  in  vain. 
Ilis  disease  Avas  indeed  soon  subdued,  but  the  re- 
cuperative poAvers  of  the  system  Avere  gone,  and 
he  Avas  rapidly  sinking  to  his  final  rest.  As 
strength  failed  reason  became  unsettled ; he 
talked  incoherently,  but  even  then,  Mr.  Martin 
says,  “ All  his  aspirations  Avere  heavenward,  his 
thoughts  love,  and  his  broken  ejaculations  yearn- 
ings after  a higher  and  holier  life.”  He  often 
expressed  also  his  desire  to  be  released  from  the 
body.  “Noav  lettest  tbou  thy  servant  depart  in 
peace,”  Avas  frequently  on  his  fevered  lips.  “Let 
me  go — Avhy  Avill  you  detain  me?”  Avas  his  gentle 
remonstrance  Avith  the  kind  friends  around  him. 


HEAVEN  OPENING. 


269 


In  a more  lucid  interval,  however,  the  night 
before  his  death,  he  gave  clear  expression  to  his 
unwavering  faith  in  Christ.  “ I have  served  my 
Master,”  he  said,  “ with  great  imperfection,  but 
my  trust  is  in  his  atoning  blood.  And  on  this 
expedition,  I have  been  betrayed  into  some  in- 
consistencies”— mark  the  honesty  of  this  confes- 
sion— “ but  still  I have  enjoyed  hours  of  sweet 
communion  with  God.”  So  far  he  had  spoken 
quietly  on  this  occasion  ; then  rising  with  a con- 
vulsive spring,  and  gazing  up  into  heaven,  as  if 
absorbed  with  visions  of  ecstatic  glory,  he  ex- 
claimed, “ I see  Jesus,  and  all  the  prophets  I” 
and  “pouring  out  his  soul  in  sublime  strains  of 
prayer  and  praise,”  Mr.  Martin  tells  us,  “he 
closed  with  the  doxology,  ‘ Hosanna  ! hosanna  in 
the  highest  !’  ” 

This  was  Sabbath  evening — the  last  he  spent 
on  earth.  He  was  on  a Chinese  boat,  on  a 
Chinese  river,  sixteen  thousand  miles  away  from 
nearly  all  his  dearest  relatives  and  friends  on 
earth.  What  a comfort  in  those  hours  of  pain 
and  anguish  to  have  had  a mother  or  sister  bend- 
ing over  his  troubled  couch,  wiping  the  death- 
damps  from  his  brow.  But  for  love  of  souls  he 
23  » 


270 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


had  left  all  these,  and  God  was  with  him.  He 
remembered  several  absent  friends  ; sent  thanks 
to  some  for  their  kindness  to  him  in  other  days, 
and  messages  of  affection  to  others.  He  made 
special  mention  of  Mr.  Burdon,  the  bosom  friend 
and  companion  of  so  large  a part  of  his  mission- 
ary life.  “ Tell  him,”  said  he  to  Mr.  Martin, 
starting  from  an  uneasy  slumber,  “that  I loved 
him  tenderly  and  devotedly,  and  I loved  him  to 
the  last.  We  shall  not  be  long  separated;  then 
we  shall  be  with  our  wives  in  heaven.  Tell  him 
to  be  faithful  unto  death ; and  I say  the  same  to 
you,  and  to  all  my  Shanghai  friends.” 

At  a late  hour,  a Chinese  prefect,  Le  by  name, 
came  to  see  him  ; and  taking  him  by  the  hand, 
informed  him  that  to  avoid  the  heat  of  the  day, 
he  was  appointed  to  escort  him  on  his  journey 
early  the  next  morning  in  advance  of  the  rest  of 
the  company.  “ Wo-taow-t' ang-kien,  yung-yuen- 
yei-fuh” — “ I am  going  to  heaven,  to  everlasting 
blessedness,”  was  the  emphatic  reply,  which  may 
cleave  to  the  memory  of  that  mandarin  to  his 
dying  day,  and  perhaps  lead  him  also  to  the  bles- 
sedness anticipated  by  the  dying  Christian. 

“ That  young  Hebrew — through  what  difficul- 


EMBASSY  LEAA’ES. 


271 


ties  he  has  had  to  struggle,”  Avas  an  exclamation 
which  burst  from  a mass  of  inarticulate  sounds, 
and  indicated  that  the  object  of  so  much  of  his 
solicitude  and  faithful  labors  on  board  the  Pow- 
hatan, still  shared  his  dying  thoughts. 

When  some  of  his  felloAv-travellers  came  to 
inquire  for  his  welfare,  he  exhorted  them  tenderly 
and  earnestly  to  make  their  calling  and  election 
sure.  When  Dr.  Williams  and  Mr.  Martin  were 
together  by  his  bedside,  he  requested  them  to  re- 
peat to  him  the  exceeding  great  and  precious 
promises,  and  to  sing  him  some  of  the  songs  of 
Zion.  He  attempted  to  join  with  his  feeble  fal- 
tering voice.  After  singing  a while  they  read  to 
him  several  of  his  favorite  hymns,  pausing  for 
him  to  repeat  such  passages  as  he  was  still  able 
to  recollect. 

Thus  wore  away  the  Sabbath  night.  Early  on 
Monday  morning,  the  15th  of  August,  the  em- 
bassy left  the  river,  and  started  again  by  land. 
There  remained  thirty-five  hours  of  this  part  of 
the  journey  before  reaching  the  ships.  Gently 
they  lifted  the  sufferer  again  into  his  palanquin, 
and  gently  they  started  on  their  Avay.  Dr.  Fox 
was  incessant  in  his  attentions  and  kindness, 


272 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


coming  often  to  the  litter  to  see  how  the  patient 
was,  or  to  administer  some  cordial  for  his  comfort. 
About  five  hours  of  the  weary  way  were  thus 
passed,  while  it  was  evident  that  the  sick  one  was 
rapidly  losing  what  little  strength  remained  in  the 
morning,  and  that  the  hope  of  his  reaching  the 
sea  was  fast  ebbing  forever  away.  About  eleven 
o’clock  in  the  forenoon,  the  doctor  came  once 
more  to  look  upon  his  patient,  gave  some  stimu- 
lant to  help  sustain  if  possible  a little  longer  the 
failing  energies,  and  then  left  him.  Coming 
again  after  a few  moments — a very  few — he 
found  that  the  weary  spirit  had  already  taken  its 
flight ; and  William  Aitchison,  the  true  Christian, 
the  ripe  scholar,  the  loving  friend,  the  devoted 
missionary  had  closed  his  eyes  in  death,  all  un- 
seen and  unattended,  except  as  the  angels  came 
to  bear  him  in  triumph  to  the  bosom  of  his  God 
and  Saviour. 

This  event  occurred  near  the  town  of  Peitsang,* 
not  far  from  the  banks  of  the  Peiho,  and  about 
thirty  hours’  journey  from  the  sea,  where  the  ships 
of  the  Embassy  were  then  lying.  His  age  was 
thirty-three  years  and  seven  months.  His  re- 
mains were  carried  to  Peitang,  where  they  ar- 

* Peitsang  is  inland,  on  the  Peiho ; Peitang  is  on  the  Gulf  of 
Pichili. 


BURIED  IN  THE  CHINA  SEA. 


273 


rived  the  next  afternoon.  A strong  Chinese 
coflSn  was  procured,  with  the  intention  of  taking 
them  back  to  Shanghai,  to  bury  him  by  the  side 
of  his  beloved  colleague,  Mr.  Macy,  which  would 
have  been  a great  gratification  to  the  missionaries 
there.  But  this  the  weather  did  not  permit. 
Thirty  hours  had  already  elapsed  since  his  death ; 
decomposition  had  commenced,  and  they  were 
compelled  to  commit  his  body  to  the  deep. 

This  was  done  on  the  evening  of  the  18th, 
with  every  demonstration  of  affection  and  respect. 
After  running  out  into  ten  fathoms  of  water,  the 
two  steamers  lay  to,  hoisted  their  colors  at  half- 
mast,  and  then  was  heard  the  solemn  cry:  “Ho, 
all  hands,  bury  the  dead.”  The  Minister  and 
Commodore,  with  many  ofiicers  of  their  respective 
suites,  passed  to  the  deck  of  the  Taiwan,  where 
the  burial  service  was  devoutly  read  by  the  chap- 
lain of  the  frigate,  and  then  the  coffin,  with  its 
precious  freight,  was  reverently  passed  over  the 
side  of  the  ship  and  lowered  into  the  unfolding 
waves  of  the  Gulf  of  Pichili,  a part  of  the  China 
Sea,  there  to  rest  until  the  sea  shall  give  up  its 
dead. 

Singular,  and  almost  prophetic,  were  some 


274 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


lines  of  a little  poem  written  by  Mr.  Aitchison 
twelve  years  before,  and  published  in  the  Yale 
Literary  Magazine  in  1847,  entitled  “The  Time 
to  die.”  It  consists  of  live  stanzas.  We  tran- 
scribe only  the  last  tivo. 

“ Bury  me  not  at  the  close  of  day, 

When  the  twilight  softly  fades  away, 

When  a deathlike  stillness  fills  the  air. 

And  goodness  kneels  at  the  place  of  prayer. 

Be  not  the  church-yard  my  place  of  rest. 

Let  no  hallowed  dust  fall  on  my  breast. 

Where  sleep  my  fathers,  let  me  not  sleep. 

May  loved  ones  over  my  grave  ne’er  weep. 

“ But  let  me  die  at  the  midnight  hour. 

When  winds  howl  loud,  and  dark  clouds  low’r; 

With  no  friend  near  to  close  my  fixed  eye. 

Or  bend  his  ear  for  my  last  faint  sigh. 

Let  no  speaking  marble  mark  the  spot, 

AVhere  ’neath  the  clods  my  body  shall  rot; 

There  let  me  rest  from  earth’s  toilsome  strife. 

Till  God  shall  wake  me  to  endless  life.” 

Not  beneath  the  clods  of  the  valley,  as  we  have 
seen,  but  beneath  the  waves  of  the  sea,  his  body 
sleeps  and  waits  the  resurrection  morn;  and  so 
his  lonely  wanderings  ceased,  and  his  happy 
spirit  ascended  to  the  loved  ones  gone  before,  to 
that  blessed  Saviour  who  had  stood  by  him  and 


STRANGE  COINCIDENCE. 


275 


strengthened  him  amid  all  the  trials  of  his  pil- 
grimage. 

He  leaves,  of  his  own  immediate  relatives, 
father,  mother,  and  two  sisters,  to  mourn  his 
loss, — hut  not  long.  Many  friends,  beside  wife, 
child,  and  father-in-law,  have  already  joined 
“the  innumerable  caravan;”  many  since  he  left 
these  shores;  and,  singularly,  also,  not  long  after 
his  decease,  that  beautiful,  embowered  dwelling, 
in  which  he  once  thought  to  find  all  the  bless- 
edness contained  in  that  matchless  word  home, 
took  fire  and  burned  to  the  ground.  So  is  Provi- 
dence saying  to  all  who  read:  “This  is  not  your 
rest.” 

But  will  any  one  think  that  his  life  was  thrown 
away?  It  was  given  to  God,  to  whom  we  all 
belong ; it  was  devoted  to  the  noblest  cause 
which  can  engage  the  energies  of  the  human 
soul;  it  was  adorned  with  the  highest  and  purest 
virtues;  and  neither  man  nor  angel  can  yet  tell 
how  much  good  it  has  already  accomplished  by 
its  sweet  and  hallowed  influence  on  all  within  its 
reach,  or  how  much  more  it  may  effect  in  many 
generations  to  come.  Although  he  fell  in  his 
youthful  prime,  his  name  still  lives,  and  he  will 


276 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


long  be  remembered  as  one  of  the  early,  earnest, 
useful  missionaries  of  the  cross  in  China.  And 
although  he  could  not  himself  settle  down  and  la- 
bor in  the  capital  of  that  vast  kingdom,  he  is  the 
forerunner  of  those  who  will.  His  name  will  yet 
be  mentioned  there;  and  devout  lips  of  happy 
worshipers  of  his  God  and  Saviour  will  yet  tell 
their  fellow-countrymen,  how  a good  man  once 
came  from  the  far  off  lands  of  the  setting  sun, 
and  tried  to  bear  the  message  of  salvation 
through  a crucified  Redeemer,  even  to  the  gates 
of  the  Imperial  palace;  and  as  the  converts  of 
other  generations  sail  over  the  gulf  of  Pichili, 
they  will  drop  a tear  to  the  memory  of  the  young 
missionary  who  once  had  great  thoughts  and 
great  plans  for  China’s  welfare,  but  was  com- 
pelled to  leave  them  all  to  other  heads  and  other 
hands,  as  his  weary  mortal  frame  sank  to  its  long 
rest  beneath  those  unquiet  waves. 

So  the  good  man  ceased  from  his  labors. 
Many  mourned  as  for  a standard-bearer  fallen; 
and  many  were  the  letters  of  sympathy  and  con- 
dolence received  by  his  friends,  showing  the  high 
appreciation  of  his  character  cherished  by  others. 

The  senior  Secretary  of  the  American  Board 


Tlio  romciery  at  Shaiigliai.  Cliiua 


ESTIMATE  OF  HIS  CHARACTER. 


277 


speaks  of  “his  talents,  his  scholarship,  his  piety, 
and  his  enlarged  benevolence,  his  devotion  to  the 
spiritual  renovation  of  a great  and  benighted  peo* 
pie,  and  his  eminently  consistent  and  beautiful 
life,”  and  calls  him  “one  of  the  most  devoted  and 
promising  missionaries  ever  in  China.” 

The  fellow-missionaries  of  Mr.  Aitchison,  of 
all  denominations,  deeply  felt  his  loss.  The  Rev. 
Mr.  Burdon,  his  associate  and  friend  in  so  large 
a part  of  his  missionary  life,  was  called  upon  to 
preach  a funeral  sermon  in  the  chapel  of  the  Lon- 
don Missionary  Society,  where  Mr.  Aitchison 
had  often  officiated  with  great  acceptance.  He 
took  for  his  text  the  dying  message  of  the  young 
soldier  of  the  cross:  “Be  thou  faithful  unto 
death.” 

To  the  memory  of  Mr.  Aitchison  a fitting  mon- 
ument was  raised  by  the  missionaries  in  their 
little  cemetery  at  Shanghai,  telling  the  story  of 
his  early  death.  Here  the  beloved  and  lamented 
Macy  was  buried,  and  over  his  grave  a marble 
shaft  had  been  erected  by  his  Chinese  friends,  a 
voluntary  tribute  of  admiration  and  love  to  one 
who  had  laid  down  his  life  for  tleir  nation.  Be- 
side this  pillar,  and  like  it  in  shape,  was  the 

24 


278 


FIVE  TEARS  IN  CHINA. 


monument  raised  to  the  memory  of  Aitcliison. 
United  in  life,  in  death  they  were  not  long  di- 
vided. The  Rev.  Elijah  C.  Bridgman,  who,  in 
the  illustration,  leans  upon  the  grave-stone,  with 
the  fall  of  the  autumn  leaves  was  laid  beside  the 
horizontal  slab  near  which  he  stands.* 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Blodget,  his  associate  in  studies 
and  labors  most  of  the  time  for  fifteen  years,  thus 
speaks  of  his  attainments  and  worth  : — In  the 
short  space  of  five  years  he  had  learned  to  speak 
with  fluency,  distinctness,  and  accuracy  both  the 
Shanghai  and  the  court  dialect.  lie  wrote  the 
Chinese  characters  with  an  ease  and  elegance 
such  as  I have  not  seen  equaled  by  any  foreigner. 
He  had  read  extensively  in  the  Chinese  classics. 
Yet  he  regarded  himself  but  as  a beginner,  and 
accounted  that  ten  years  at  least  would  be  neces- 
sary before  he  should  be  fully  competent  to  liter- 
ary labor.  Two  short  works,  one  on  the  geogra- 
phy of  the  Scriptures,  and  another  giving  a sum- 
mary of  their  books  and  their  contents  had  been 
prepared  by  him,  and  will  be  published.” 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Martin,  his  associate  and  com- 

* For  this  illustration  we  are  indebted  to  the  authoress  of  the 
Life  of  Dr.  Bridgman. 


THE  SECRET  OF  HIS  TOWER. 


279 


panion  on  his  last  trip,  speaks  of  him  as  “one 
whose  talents  an.d  virtues  commanded  the  respect 
of  all  who  knew  him  ; and  who,  though  compara- 
tively recent  in  his  arrival  in  China,  was  already 
far  advanced  in  the  way  to  eminence  as  a Chinese 
scholar  and  a missionary.” 

And  Rev.  Mr.  Cunnyngham,  another  mission- 
ary, wrote  : — “ To  know  him  was  to  respect,  to 
love  him.  He  was  among  his  companions  here  a 
universal  favorite.  As  a preacher  he  stood  very 
high  among  his  brethren.  As  a Chinese  scholar, 
taking  the  length  of  time  he  had  been  in  the  field, 
he  had  not  his  equal  among  us.  To  this,  not 
only  the  missionaries  hear  cheerful  testimony,  but 
the  Chinese  scholars  invariably  so  regarded  him. 
We  had  come  to  look  upon  him  as  the  most  prom- 
ising young  man  among  the  American  mission- 
aries.” 

Such  was  the  candid  estimate  of  wise  and  com- 
petent men  in  regard  to  the  character  and  labors 
of  Mr.  Aitchison.  The  prime  elements  of  his 
power  and  usefulness  are  so  clearly  manifest  in 
all  the  record  of  his  daily  life,  that  further  at- 
tempts to  elucidate  them  would  seem  superfluous  ; 
his  sweet  simplicity,  his  genuine  good  sense,  his 


280 


FIVE  YEARS  IN  CHINA. 


native  politeness,  his  true  benevolence,  and  above 
all,  his  devoted,  constant  piety — these,  with  God’s 
blessing,  lifted  him  from  his  humble  sphere  in  the 
Norwich  cotton  mill,  and  set  him  among  men  of 
influence  and  renown ; these  made  him  the  true 
friend,  the  prudent  counsellor,  the  judicious  and 
indefatigable  worker,  useful  and  beloved  in  every 
position  which  he  was  called  to  fill.  Born  in 
Scotland,  educated  in  America,  laboring  and  dy- 
ing in  China,  he  belonged  to  no  one  land  alone, 
but  to  all  the  world,  to  God,  and  to  heaven. 


APPENDIX. 


281 


APPENDIX. 


The  following  obituary  notice  of  Mrs.  Aitchison  ap- 
peared at  the  time  of  her  death  in  one  of  the  leading  re- 
ligious journals  of  New  York : — 

“From  her  earliest  youth  she  gave  promise  of  uncom- 
mon excellence.  She  possessed  superior  native  powers, 
enriched  by  judicious  culture ; an  imagination  which 
clothed  everything  in  beauty  to  her  eyes ; a taste  refined 
and  exquisite ; a buoyant  disposition,  hopeful  even  to 
the  latest  hour  of  life,  and  a heart  warm,  constant,  and 
confiding. 

“She  was  a lover  of  the  beautiful  in  whatever  form  it 
existed.  Especially  did  she  delight  in  the  works  of  na- 
ture, often  expressing  the  opinion  that  a person  became 
a better  and  a holier  Christian  by  communion  with  God 
in  his  works.  Her  enthusiasm  in  regard  to  trees  and 
flowers  and  birds  was  remarkable.  Music  and  poetry 
were  the  natural  outgushings  of  such  a heart,  gladdening 
her  own  life,  and  delighting  all  who  were  privileged  with 
her  friendship.  She  had  not  many  intimate  friends.  To 
a chosen  few  in  whom  she  could  confide,  she  opened  her 
24  » 


282 


APPENDIX. 


heart  freely,  and  they  found  in  it  a wealth  of  affection  of 
which  others  could  form  no  idea.  Perhaps  no  one  looked 
forward  into  life  with  brighter  hopes. 

“But  it  was  as  a Christian  that  her  chief  loveliness 
was  made  manifest.  She  became  a professed  follower 
of  the  Saviour  at  the  age  of  sixteen,  and  thenceforth  her 
religious  character  was  decided,  con.sistent,  humble,  and 
cheerful.  The  writer  was  associated  with  her  in  a Mis- 
sion Sabbath  School  in  New  Haven,  for  the  space  of  four 
years,  and  can  testify  to  the  faithful  discharge  of  her  du- 
ties there,  and  her  unwearied  labors  for  the  salvation  of 
her  scholars.  The  same  which  thus  adorned  her  daily 
life,  was  her  strength  and  support  as  she  drew  near  the 
valley  of  the  shadow  of  death.  It  was  not  a dark  valley 
to  her.  For  a year  past,  and  particularly  for  the  last 
eight  or  nine  weeks  of  her  life,  she  seemed  to  view  death 
as  before  her ; but  there  was  nothing  like  gloom  or  de- 
spondency in  her  feelings  for  a moment.  ‘ I am  happy,' 
seemed  to  be  the  true  expression  of  her  life,  as  well  as 
of  her  lips,  in  these  last  days.  When  the  Master’s  call 
came  suddenly  at  the  last,  in  the  middle  of  the  night- 
watch,  she  was  calm  and  tranquil.  She  had  previously, 
in  a perfectly  clear  and  distinct  voice,  bidden  each  mem- 
ber of  the  family  a separate  ‘good  bye and  as  the  hours 
passed  slowly  on,  she  sat  silently  looking  into  the  grave, 
and  waiting  for  her  change  to  come.  The  indescribable 
bodily  distress  of  the  three  previous  days  had  exhausted 
her  strength,  and  now  too  faint  to  speak  except  by  an 
occasional  answer  to  a question  from  her  husband,  in  one 


APPENDIX. 


283 


of  which  she  said  her  only  hope  was  in  Christ,  she  was 
absorbed  in  quiet,  trustful  thought  until  the  power  of 
consciousness  ceased.  Fainter  and  fainter  grew  the  pul- 
sation of  her  heart,  until  at  a quarter  past  4 o’clock,  on 
Wednesday  morning,  January  12th,  it  stood  still  for- 
ever.” 

The  following  lines  were  found  in  her  portfolio  after 
her  decea.se,  evidently  the  fruit  of  some  prophetic  mus- 
ings,  as  the  day  of  her  departure  seemed  to  be  drawing 

mar. 


THE  DEATH  ROOM. 

“Weary  and  spent  and  gasping  low, 

A young  girl  lay  on  a couch  of  snow. 

With  dim  and  death-closed  eye; 

Her  form  was  wasted,  wan  and  weak, 

No  bloom  was  left  on  her  faded  cheek — 

The  faintest  word  she  could  not  speak — 

This  was  her  hour  to  die. 

“ Gently  she  bowed  to  the  grim  old  king — 

So  fair  and  lovely  and  frail  a thing 
Could  not  resist  him  long. 

She  died — and  loved  ones  standing  by, 

As  her  spirit  flew  to  the  upper  sky, 

Heard  an  angel  voice  in  warble  high, 

Singing  this  happy  song : — 

* I have  done  with  earth — I have  done  with  pain. 
And  I am  forever  free ; 

I have  broken  away  from  my  galling  chain — 
Redeemer,  I come  to  Thee. 


284 


APPENDIX. 


■‘I  have  bidden  farewell  to  my  earthly  house, 
So  often  racked  with  sorrow,- 
I feel  no  dread  of  the  future  now. 

For  eternity  has  no  morrow. 

“ Dear  friends,  farewell ! I shall  love  you  still 
Weep  not  o’er  my  iee-oold  clay — 

For  a harp  of  gold,  and  a crown  of  life. 

Are  given  to  me  to-day. 

“Farewell! — Mourn  not  o’er  the  lifeless  dust, 
But  lay  it  beneath  the  sod ; 

A glorious,  happy  spirit  now, 

I speed  to  the  throne  of  God.” 


THE  END. 


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